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Thanks

Thanks Big Monk. Really appreciate the comments. I was avoiding buying 2 dollars of parts with 15 shipping, as you know well. I have a couple of other pedals arriving and I will see what I'm short, or I might just go with the 5537-1. yes, it was a typo

I have the GL5527-1, but it calls for an LDR 7530, 7532, 9203, or similar. It seems if I read the data sheet (If I understand) The 5527 is less sensitive. Im not quite sure how to compare them, any thoughts? GL5527 datasheet: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/756864/CdS/GL5537-1/1 9203 datasheet...

Well, to finish a long arduous project called fuck it up some more I lifted the pads on the Hydra for the LED and for the 4k7 R13 resistor to the LED. I have bridged the anode of the Diode D1 to the anode of the LED. I haven't done anything with the Cathode yet. Trying to figure where to tie...

Actually, the FV-1 wasn't working when I last tested it with the guitar. Cold solder on a cap. I will test it tomorrow as I know get signal through the FV-1.

The volume drop when it is engaged. My reading of the data sheet for the FV-1 made me think that it had to be min of 2.5. But the volume drop could be from somewhere else.

Question. What should the voltage be going in pin 1 and coming out pin 28 be on the FV-1 chip? I'm getting 1.7ish https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Hydra.jpg

Thanks everyone. I use their 3-5 sec rule as well. Mine was 480 c, so I will back down a bit and try it again..

I have melted the LED pad on two pedals trying to suck out solder. I have never had this problem before. any suggestions? Literally melted the hole shut.

I jumped a resistor like so. not soldered yet. Look right? Still won't light up. Anode to Anode.

One other question. what voltage should I be seeing from pin 28 of the FV-1?

Right under the Diode center

Lifted pad on the 4k7 resister for the LED. anyway I can bridge this? Schema. https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Hydra.jpg

When will the schema be out for the Hydra. Its not working and I need to debug it.

Yea, when you first start out you don't quite get it

I got the short ones, (Which I don't use...usually) from amazon. The 16mm I got from Smallbear.

well I am one stupid F###. I did not use the 16mm but the short one. as soon as I started pulling the Pots out of the drawer, the short ones were bent and had solder on the middle lug.

Yes, because it lines up with the faceplate. After I redid the pots with wires it all fits. Screw it, Let me take the pots off and retry this, since it's obvious it fits. Give me a little while

Question. Did you attach it to the faceplate first, then attach the pots and switch to the PCB board?

Looks like my pots. I couldn't fit it on the face plate. I even tried bending the elbow forward. All pots fit the plate but the switch rockers went in the hole but the threads wouldn't. And I wasn't drinking, I swear. If I hadn't already soldered everything I would retry it.