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I was under the impression the patented part is the heating circuit so the germanium stays at a stable temperature. If it's just that, you could technically clone everything else and maybe get it to sound the same, except affected by ambient temperature much more? Or does anyone know if there's...

Oh, do you mean you would replace one of the TL072 with an LM308 and also skipping the buffer? That would work op amp stage wise, but a.) not sure if the pinouts are compatible, b.) you need a compensation cap for an LM308 I believe, and c.) you would be changing the first stage of the pedal...

It won't - the informant has two TL072 dual op amps and a charge pump, the LM308 is a single op amp. You could try a different dual op-amp but I suspect the difference won't be that big. If you can identify what it is you don't like and would like more, then you could tweak other parts of the...

Hmm, I see Tayda has these https://www.taydaelectronics.com/lockwasher-for-foot-switch.html for footswitches, but I think they would probably work even if they're slightly larger?

If you get the drilling done at Tayda they drill first and powder coat afterwards, so the inner diameter is indeed painted.

It sounds like your jacks are not making contact with the enclosure. It's common practice to remove the powder coating from those holes to ensure the jacks make contact - sandpaper might work fine, I use an old knife personally, I'm sure there are other good tools too. I'm not sure about...

Ahh good correction, for some reason I thought they were by the same company (maybe the EF120 messed me up). EL has multiple issues on the boards which are mentioned on the build docs, although fixing the boards and only selling the fixed boards would be better of course (but cost money). The...

Yep, that is not even updated in the build docs, and the Sasquatch II I built has some pads mislabeled, plus the Sunnbeam DI board has a cap footprint the wrong way around. At least those last two are mentioned in the build docs, but it's very easy to miss or forget it even if you read it once...

Oh man, that's just delicious bullshit marketing talk that I almost want to change my signature, but I don't think it works quite as well without context.

FWIW they make pin row headers that fit straight into sockets, if I understood that should also do the same trick. But nice to know 22ga wire also works well.

I assume so - if you have a machine that can print PCB's. But if you're asking about it here, I assume you don't, so like most of us we don't do anything else with gerbers than download them from somewhere (or export in a PCB layout program) and then upload the files to a PCB fabrication site...

I've got a standard version waiting to be boxed so I haven't played it yet, I'm just curious since I've got some extra boards. They also talk about the "starve" feature on their loop switcher, but looking at the schematic I don't know if it makes a huge difference to the drive control - it's...

Oh geez, I didn't know that and it really helps me understand why simple low- and high-pass filters work, not just how they work in practice. Thank you!

Figured it might be worth asking, does anyone know what the Midas Touch mod for the Mad Professor Amber Overdrive entails? It sounds like probably some component changes, maybe tonestack changes or something else pretty small? Here's the best (non-sales pitch) description I found of what is...

I'm pretty sure gerbers work on a phone too - they're basically the files you send to a PCB fabricator (a lot of people here use JLCPCB but there are others) so they print the PCB. That means you can download the gerbers, upload them to JLCPCB, and get your very own set of PCB's printed like...

Yes, D1 and D2 have the negative on the same side on the PCB. Electrically they're going the opposite directions though, and you can even see the trace go from one's anode to the other's cathode in the picture on the site https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/lgsm/. Nevertheless, just orient the...

Yep, once I fixed it the voltage was back to what it should be and I haven't had any issues - although granted since I had already purchased a new power supply, I've just been using that one instead.

I was referring to modeling stuff like the Kemper or NAM, but in this case to the Quad Cortex capture version 2. It's spot on for the ones I've done personally (the Sasquatch II, a Muff with a germanium transistor which gave it a touch of gating, plus a toggleable green ringer was captured...

Thanks to both of you! Partially for helping me realize that "breadboard it" is probably the best way to approach it in the future if I build more Tone Benders, and partially to help me realize that aiming for the "perfect Tonebender in every aspect" is probably not helpful. I was somewhat...

Yes, I know, there's a bunch of threads and a whole lot of information online. And that's really my issue. I've seen some advice which aims for hFE around ~100 or so, with leakage around 200uA or so, like here...