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Thank you! Excellent! Edit: Anyone know about the Fuzz Cadet? Edit2: Right, the Fuzz Cadet has the switch on the opposite side to Simulcast/Danube fuzz, so it definitely won't work with the same template. Anyone have the measurement for how far to the side it is on the Fuzz Cadet or should I...

A couple of Tayda drill template questions: I assume the Antithesis is just the basic 4 knob layout, so pre-drilled boxes would work? Similarly Bellum Fuzz MK. II is a 3 knob. But how about the Abyss? It doesn't seem to be the normal 5 knob layout, are there measurements somewhere or a Tayda...

...is there some reason it can not be written out loud? Edit: Nvm, it was linked at the end of the thread I guess.

Like I said, I already gave up on it. But I don't think I saw 4 diodes in a group (or I guess two sets of 4 diodes in a group, since half of it still works). There are diodes per output at least, not sure if there are more per half of the pedal.

FWIW I tried measuring both caps in circuit (which is of course not accurate, I know), and they both gave the same readings so I suspect it wasn't those caps. I tried reflowing it overall with the hot air gun, but then also when it broke it smelled like burning... So I just decided to order a...

You should check connectivity to make sure a trace isn't broken (should be a pretty easy fix if so), but it's best if you do a troubleshooting thread about it instead. Remember to read the instructions, the clear pictures are very useful.

Took me a bit longer since my nephew's baptism took a bit longer yesterday. But yeah, I don't think I'm fixing this thing. In hindsight I should have seen this coming since it was a bit too simple, but I wasn't quite expecting this: And I'll attach some other pics from the top side which...

Just to clarify, the leads of the big cap? The power plug probably won't be enough? Does the size of the resistor matter much? I'll try to get pictures tomorrow, if for nothing else then just for curiosity. From what I can tell, I can probably disregard most of the electrolytic caps - there...

Thanks, I might give it another quick look, and maybe take the PCB out and check the underside. But if I can't find anything easily I'm not going to try anything more, because I don't want to try measuring anything while it's plugged in. I might ask for a quote to get it repaired, I suspect it's...

I was using my huge pedalboard a little ago and suddenly it started malfunctioning. Just a slow motorboating type sound, some pedals not lighting up, smelled like burning. I finally got around to troubleshooting in more detail, and it looks like my Truetone 1Spot CS12 is broken. To be more...

So the rev 1 is not an existing drill template either (well, I'm more interested in the Tayda options, but same thing really)?

So you can get the authentic original version experience! Don't you know tone controls can also suck the tone out of your instrument!?

I don't remember what bias i used in mine at all, but if it sounds really nice, you're good. Personally I use mine in the "both" position since with my strat the bright gets too bright. The low one was nice when I changed my strings though, helped me through the phase where they are way too...

Youtube comments recommended it, not me! But it's a fair point. I don't know what op-amp based MIAB's there are off the top of my head.

This is all I could find: "This pedal is a model that reproduces the early Eddie Van Halen brown sound and is a so-called modified Marshall-type distortion pedal. It is a powerful, distorting type of pedal" " OPA2134 is used for the opaque amplifier, and the midrange has been made to be firm...

If I wanted to use a pedal designed for guitar (mainly, say, a delay pedal) for vocals, is there anything else than just switching out the input and output jacks for XLR? And how would that work since it's unbalanced and mono, presumably? Or is a microphone's signal too low to work with just any...

I think you could power it up and have a go at biasing, but biasing by ear is also a valid way to do it usually, so I'd suggest you wait until it's all done and bias as the last step. That way you can also check how it sounds.

I generally put the switches and pots carefully into the holes on the PCB and then guide it into the enclosure, so the pots and switches line up. Solder the pots and switches there. For that kind of a LED which is apparently built in to the bezel, I would probably put that in it's place and try...

Let's be accurate now. We know there's microplastics everywhere - what we don't know is what risk they pose to human health. They obviously don't kill you straight away since they're so ubiquitous, and I'd say most people wouldn't be very comfortable betting that they are completely harmless...

Did you try emailing CAE? I'm not sure if they will just give you the schematics, but it's worth asking at least. The chances that someone has the schematics just lying around is pretty low. If you want general troubleshooting help, I suggest you post in the Troubleshooting sub-forum instead...