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Is this a troubleshooting thread or are you asking for modifications to fix it? So the tone control does something, but it's just too dark?

Oh wow, that was very cool. A comment mentioned maybe using an LFO for the clock too, but I'm not sure if that would just make it sound the same with every program. Maybe a momentary footswitch for the LFO would work even in that case, but then that's a lot of effort for just a momentary...

It does sound like there might have indeed been a short (or cold solder joint?) earlier that got fixed, but the LED thing was covered in the thread I linked earlier I believe. I also had similar results to that thread, where similar (or small difference) between the two LED's forward voltages...

I wonder if that could just be a psychoacoustic thing, an octaver would obviously decrease lower frequencies and increase higher frequencies, which could make it feel like it's quieter and weaker? While a fuzz or distortion would "bring their own low end", but you get more high end too, so it...

Study the schematic carefully. The lower part seems to work fine, the issue is with the upper part - the 10uF and 1uF caps do not make any difference if the LED issue prevents any signal from getting through in the first place due to the LEDs. The whole upper part is meant to be the sag...

The stereo mod is wet/dry. The pedal itself is mono, so you won't get stereo out of it, you would need to build two of them in one enclosure for actual stereo. But since it's a doubler, the wet/dry might still be ok - you do get a wider total image with one side being "doubled" (slight pitch and...

I hope someone can clarify things, but according to https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/fornicus-leds.20394/#post-274391 and from what I remember of my own troubleshooting, you want a decent difference in VREF between D1 and D2 - the part I'm not sure about is which way you want it. I think you...

Tbh I'm mainly using sockets to help with any troubleshooting issues (including IC's installed the wrong way around). That's pretty much the only reason I even use sockets in the first place - troubleshooting pedals with sockets is so much easier than ones without sockets.

"We mount our IC's sideways to improve the signal/noise ratio and EMF rejection. This allows for more natural, warm, tube-like breakup, improved clarity and enhanced dynamic feel." Easy +$50 to the pricing.

I use this https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware-tools/hand-tools/u-type-plcc-extraction-tool.html because pulling IC's often does suck. There's also https://www.taydaelectronics.com/plcc-extraction-tool-black-handle.html, not sure if that's better or not. The first one works fine IME, but...

I've also always used leaf-type sockets with no issues. You do need to pre-bend the legs beforehand, but it's not too hard.

Desoldering isn't too bad if you've got good tools and use leaded solder. I find it to be a huge pain with unleaded solder though, but YMMV. Again, height clearance shouldn't really be an issue since you can clip the legs to be shorter - no reason not to do it tbh instead of just leaving them...

You can also just cut the legs shorter. But soldering them to the PCB is probably best if desoldering the sockets is not an issue. Personally I hate desoldering (and it is somewhat risky for me) so I would probably just solder them into the sockets (even though it's probably slightly less...

It is often done like you said, but as far as I understand functionally the way they did it works just as well. If you have a lower and a higher forward voltage diode both going to ground in parallel, the lowest forward voltage diode starts conducting first, and at that point it doesn't really...

My guess is that it's a coincidence and there's a cold solder joint in the Spirit Box, so basically the same thing dcfvgb suggested. Probably wiring, but could be some other component too. It's easy to draw a conclusion that an OD before it "broke it" or something, but chances are it's more of...

One option is Aliexpress, but tbh from what I've looked at the prices aren't as good as Tayda, the selections is horrible, and the tariffs will still be there of course if you're in the US.

It was already mentioned, and it's the coupling/output cap, it's not going to drop the volume heavily if it's 100nF instead of 1uF. I'm most interested in two of the pots not doing anything, that's a clear sign of something being messed up. I'm going to assume you meant "top left" from the...

I bought TI TL072's from LCSC (which I believe is trustworthy for stuff like this) for 23 eurocents a piece. Seems like the price has gone up a bit since then, but still... Only downside is you have to buy 50+ to get that price, but I consider it a lifetime supply for 12€, and the price isn't...

Another vote for JTEX, if you go full DIY size is going to be annoying to work with. The JTEX stuff fits right in. I've got an Axtivator in one guitar, a Distiller CE in a bass and I'm planning to put a Boosty McBuffer into a hollowbody this summer, time/energy permitting.

Huh, the 510 looks to be ~24€ with free shipping. That's... shockingly cheap? Like approaching the level of "might as well buy one in case I need it to calibrate bucket brigades at some point" or whatever. Edit: That was the 152 actually, 510 is 33€, didn't check what the difference is - I...