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https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb519/ Could you, please, share the schematic for the "Basic Relay DPDT Switch (Latching)"? Thanks

The Aion FX DZ4 has a redesigned power supply. Maybe you can get something similar using a charge pump IC (similar to the klon centaur one). Regarding the voltage requeriments for the VH4 pedal, it has been previously discussed on this thread: 'Valhalla - 9v? 12v? 18v?'...

Yes. You can get differences as big as 40dB easily from a single coil low-output pickup to a high gain HB pickup. It's not only the pickup itself, but the height setup, the string gauge, the pick (plectrum) used, and definetly the player. If you have enough resolution at your ADC, I would set...

Didn't read you fully. Sorry. But the following links may be useful for you: https://sound-au.com/articles/active-filters.htm https://sound-au.com/articles/eq.htm https://sound-au.com/articles/gyrator-filters.htm Consider this design has not constant Q on the bands, so I would recommend you go...

One for on/off. Effect on is led on. Other for channel switching. I would assume channel B is led on (the schematic does not show the switching)

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/PedalPCB-ThermionicDeluxe.pdf According to this doc, one switch is bypass, the other is channel switch. Each switch has its own led

We already worked with @joelorigo to get this reverse engineered, but I forgot to post the results. I generated a PDF document with screen captures of the LTspice schematic and simulations for the EQ part of the schematic of the: GE7, GEB7, GE7B, and the XTS modded GE7...

Gain is the same for both. Only the EQ curves change. Probably the od808x curves filter less overtones, and that's why you percieve more drive. You can try shorting the 51k resistor in series to the drive pot. That way you will get lower gain positions in the drive pot. If you find the final...

Great! Just a tip to get better help in these cases, next time avoid adding more process than needed. I was scratching my head because the volume pot at the end made some noise go away (that indicated the noise could be happening in the output stage), but I was also hearing that the hiss was...

Yes. Go for the usual suspects first. In case you didn't use something to isolate the throb and rate pots from the soldering pads, put something in between and see if the noise is gone. Any piece of cardboard or a paper folded a couple of times will do the trick.

I may be hearing youtube audio compresion. Is the noise being afected by the vibe modulation?

With an input over 15V, the 78L12 regulator will work correctly and the circuit will have +12V and -12V power rails. With these, the TL072 opamp should have a max peak to peak output voltage of about 21 Volts. But with an 9V input, the rails will probably be about +8V and -8V, giving a max peak...

I can confirm that it will work with 9V and 12V, but the internal voltage rails will not be +12V and -12V as designed. That's why 18V (or anything over 14~15V) is ideal for the best dynamic response of the distortion. This design has a main clipping stage with a unique topology that needs the...

https://www.tonestart.com/ultimate-jhs-guitar-pedal-clone-list/

Nice!! There's a white box cap that I cannot see the value in the first picture. If you take as much pictures as you can from different angles, and drop them in a google drive or similar. I would gladly go through them and write a diagram/document with the changes in the mod. (ideally, unscrew...

That said, if I were to play with a big muff to modify it's sound, instead of using low gain transistors to modify the gain staging of the circuit, I would modify the resistors values around the transistors to reduce each stage gain, but keeping the DC bias the same.

Take into consideration that the Bipolar transistor hFE (current gain) it's not the actual gain of the amplification stage in the circuit. That will be determined by the topology and the feedback used. Is that feedback the one that makes the huge variations in hFE usable in real world...

I believe that from 2017 on, all the pedals are SMD. If you want to mod one, try to get one that is not Malaysia made.

What about a PCB ruler with components codes and other cheatsheet like data (for example, a diode with A and K at the terminals)?

Do you have a DMM to measure the power supply voltage? Maybe a bad electrolithic