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Thanks a lot, @Chuck D. Bones for taking the time to give such a thorough response. I really appreciate it!

@Barry @Chuck D. Bones Curious as to your take on the differences between the DF-2 and DS-1 distortion circuits. How close are they? Is the DF-2 circuit an improvement on the DS-1 circuit?

@PedalPCB are you still planning on putting out a DS-1 board?

Yes, exactly.

I used J201s from Mouser.

Second of my Tayda printed enclosures. I took the recommendation in the build docs to use an on/off/on switch to gain an extra no diode clipping mode, which might be my favorite of the three.

@BurntFingers what is the problem you are having with the artwork? Maybe I can help.

Yeah, the drilling service is easy to find on the site, but the printing service is pretty hidden. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/uv-printing

First of a bunch of builds using Tayda UV printed and custom drilled enclosures. The printing quality is very good and accurate, and the drilling is accurate as well (although I did find I needed to reem the holes a bit more, as they weren’t perfectly circular). Will post more as I finish.

Small Bear will be open on this coming Sunday and Monday for orders, so that may be the best option.

I bought a few of them recently on ebay. They arrived from the UK in about a week. Here’s the listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/111253602759 The seller seems to have more in stock.

Tayda sent me some 4.7nf WIMAs in a bag labeled 2.2nf (I had ordered 2.2nf WIMAs). They ended up giving me a store credit for the value of the 2.2nf caps. You should definitely be careful and visually confirm/measure that the components match their label.

LOL, OK. I didn't think of that! :ROFLMAO:

One thing isn't making sense though. The two pins in the middle would limit you to two possible orientations for the switch. Does the rotary switch have another mechanism for allowing you to set the positions?

Thanks a lot, K Pedals!

For the 2P4T rotary switch, where are the 4 positions, relative to a clock dial, do they start at 9 o'clock and end at 3 o'clock, or somewhere in between? Trying to plan for the position labels.

@K Pedals, love your work. Very clean! I’m curious about something. What are you using to connect the PCB to the 3PDT breakout board? It looks like component leads?

Dang man! Your red and black components look pretty kick ass! Where’d you find those?

You should post this in the “Troubleshooting” forum. When you post there, you should mention which cap values you aren’t sure about, and post some pictures of your pcb (front and back). The problem you’re describing probably isn’t caused by choosing the wrong type of capacitor.

Thanks, zgrav. I pulled out the CD4024BE chip from the socket and looked at the traces that go under that socket, but I'm not seeing anything problematic there. For good measure, I went ahead and cleaned in there with IPA, but still having that grounding problem.