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Great idea! I don't really know what's going on, I'm not really able to verify if it does the right things or not but let's try: My typical uv print job is white text on transparent background. Comparing the output from your tool with pdfs I've sent to tayda, I see some things that look...

350-400 C

Another suggestion: If you have only two pins that are stuck, and have two irons and a friend, drench both joints in fresh solder, keep the irons at the joints while one of you pulls out the transformer. The trick temol posted works well esp if the pins are next to each other

There's no extensive testing to back this up but they work well like pretty much everything else they sell.

I had a couple of PT2399's that didn't look fake, and only worked if I connected one of the pins to ground momentarily

Stompboxparts has PF5102

No, just wondered because I'm fascinated by them. Maybe just because they're a shiny and (relatively) new package? Haha, yeah working with low voltage stuff can be "fun".

Yeah but atleast tell us a little bit more than this Mr. Schwipserland My cursed circuit is Phase90, everytime I tried it had to go to shit for different reasons and I was always to dumb or unmotivated to find out why it didn't work. But finally i conquered it 6 months ago, and I'm very happy...

For me it was a couple of weeks of frustration and struggle in the beginning, after that more fun than anything else.

Nice work! I suspect DeadEnd Fx boards are sparse like that mostly to make the designers life easy when he's doing the routing. Routing can test your patience at times. When you start out drawing your own boards, low component count and sparsely laid out is being nice to yourself for many...

Those TL072s are purty! (the build too!)

a drop of gel or liquid flux on the joints and then 2-3 seconds of reflow would probably make most of them look alright. still good job putting it together!

My only thought is that it can't be PT2399.., BBD or digital?

I really want to build one, but the thought of debugging a sandwich like that made me hesitate. It's a fairly large circuit after all, more likely that something goes wrong. So big box it is when I get around to it. Sort of the same argument as choosing outie dc jack, not enjoying 1590a...

Really? IC1 leg #4 and IC4 leg #4 should be connected to GND, i'd put a lead on the backside of the pcb between one of those legs and the GND pad. If you check the schematic (pg.10 or 7..). there's many other components connected to GND, if you have a multimeter it can be good to check that...

I got to try the Andonstar (and also an optical microscope) today which made me accidentally press the buy button for the Tomlov I've posted above. I hope this doesn't mean I have to Lov someone called Tom.

Thank you! 🥰

Ah, I've been meaning to ask the board about TC7660H, no downsides beside the max input voltage?

Your description of the mod version sounds more in parity with mine built with stock values / components, according to 2.5rev on Fuzzdog pcb https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/product/25rev Makes me think that it could have something to do with through-hole J201's vary more than smd mmbfj201 and...

I'm no pro and never worked with the fv-1 makes me want to back out, but my feeling is that it's audio probe time? I usually start at both ends, make sure there's a decent signal in to the board, and then first step after that is if bypassing the last pontentiometer does anything for the signal...