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Lol, so... This is probably too late to help the original poster, but for anyone coming back later on... I had this same issue. Turns out the problem was that my idiot self forgot that it came with a pre loaded EEPROM (one 24LC32A). Some time later I ordered the parts and, not thinking, I...

Thank you for the information on the LED clipping. I didn't realize that (still pretty new at this)! I confess, I did not insulate the pin-headers. In dry-fitting the dip module it seemed that they weren't in danger of making contact with the enclosure. I've also run a wire through the gaps...

I just finished building the Muffin Factory and it looks great and sounds good too... I think? If I didn't know what kind of pedal it was supposed to be, I would say that it sounds good and it's definitely a pedal I would play. However, knowing that it's supposed to be a muff, I'm not sure that...

I super appreciate this about your PCBs - and it's one of the reasons I've found that I prefer PedalPCB pcbs over others. Having the component values printed on the board just makes it sooooo much easier. So thank you for that!

Hm, PedalPCB must have updated that recently. My build docs are from a couple of months ago at this point. Thanks for your quick help!

Sorry, couldn't figure out how to delete this post (looks like you can't?). I just realized that this question was already answered for me a while ago. If anyone else is looking, the answer was that either is fine.

Quick question about C9 on the Pythagoras build... The parts list says that it should be a ceramic capacitor, but the board layout and the wiring diagram show it as an electrolytic capacitor. Can I use either, in this instance? Thank you!

Double yes please. That would be awesome!

Hi Chuck - Thanks for weighing in! Are you saying that the collector voltages on Q4 and Q5 should be above 3v in general, or specifically for the cleft mod? I do indeed have legit 2N1308s as well as legit AC176s. This is my first time working with vintage GE transistors however, so I'm...

Oh, it's no problem - and thank you! It was just the help I needed. For those finding this thread later with the same question, these two diodes are D2 and D5:

Well that makes perfect sense. Definitely learning electronics as I go, so I appreciate the prompting to be a more active problem solver. That was just the tip I needed. Thanks again!

I'm building a war scythe and I'm going to socket D2 and D5 in case I ever want to try the cleft mod. Only problem is I can't tell from the PCB or the PCB diagram which 2 of the four LEDs are D2 and D5. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you for your help!

Okay. I won't bother trying then. Thank you so much for your help!

Thank you for the info. And this will be my first time using pin headers, so I appreciate the procedural advice! ...Do you recommend socketing them on the main board?

I was wondering how tall the pin headers for the muffin factory should be. Thank you!

Okay, sounds good. Thank you both for the help!

Hello, I have a quick question about C9 on the Pythagoras boards: The parts list says it's supposed to be MLCC, but the board illustration shows it as a polarized electrolytic capacitor. Which one is correct? Thank you!

Hahaha, oh right. I remember putting those in there! S'pose I could've gotten to the bottom of that if I had thought hard enough about it... Thank you for your help!

Thank you! So the 4th position is nothing (or is it just still symmetrical clipping)? To my ears, it sounds like turning it to the 4th position actually introduces a 4th clipping option. Am I just imagining it?

Does anyone know what the rotary switch clipping options are on the Parentheses Fuzz, from left to right? I'm a little too green to be able to identify it by ear... or the wiring diagram. Thank you for your help.