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I'm not an expert, but that looks unlike any Panasonic/Matsushita MN series chip I've seen in older gear, or ones I've bought from Small Bear in the past. The font is wrong, the (M) logo looks particularly wrong, and I think they're supposed to have the dot and half circle on the end with pins 1...

Oooh I got some favorite mods! -B500k for volume and C1k for fuzz. Always found the stock pots bunched the whole useable range in the last bit of rotation. These tapers gave me a LOT more useable room and fine-tweakability. -Bump the 330-470R resistor up to 1k for a bit more volume. -External...

Be weary of jameco. They are known for selling fake parts, just google "jameco counterfeit", there's some weighty articles and audits. I've gotten a few LM308N and can LM308AH. They have worked but I doubt they're legit, the dip8 LM308N's look particularly cheesy. Don't have the gear to test...

Well let's crack 'em open! Left to right: Alpha, Tayda (1.1kg version), Vimex, Gorva, Dailywell Probably not super useful without details pics, but construction of Alpha and Tayda is similar but without a doubt different. Tayda has a softer casing, and the spring is has less tension, giving...

Isn't the LMS switch a Gorva with a different stamp?

OPA2134PA is what you're after if you want the standard 8pin DIP chip. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/OPA2134PA/OPA2134PA-ND/254686?utm_campaign=buynow&utm_medium=aggregator&curr=usd&utm_source=octopart https://stompboxparts.com/semiconductors/opa2134pa-precision-dual-opamp/...

That seems a bit higher than "normal" at 5mA, but looking at a few 1n60 datasheets, max Vf could be as high as 1v at 5ma. I have no experience with the atlas, but a lot of standard multimeters test at 1-2ma which would likely show up as something closer to the .2-.4 range you're used to. Is it...

Jameco has a few!

I can vouch for stompboxparts and smallbear. Pedalhacker is new to me, great selection!

I'm having a tough time jumping back and forth between pics and schematics but I think I figured it out. I think the spot to look at is the 47k resistor between pins 1 and 6 of the 4558p. Before adding a switch, test and try lifting this leg, should kill the dry signal.

This can has given me good results. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-clear-topcoat My best looking clear coats have always been 2 to 4 mist coats before doing anything that's considered a light/medium coat. Then I do 2 (maybe more) light coats.

I've never liked that style. Same issues. Connection is really tight but somehow still cuts out power when bumped. I think most knockoffs use a true 2.1mm center pin when other "standard" jacks use a 2mm. Looking at Lumberg datasheets, the center pin is 2mm and also at 2degree angle. Good...

Great looking build! Appreciate the demo, too. You've been cookin' up a ton lately, I'm jealous! I've had one of the Informant boards sitting around for months and need to get around to building it. I love the sound of the Rat with lower gain and I've been eager to try a DRV for a long while...

Totally fine. I actually prefer them to Alpha if I’m given a choice. Fiberglass wafer is a lot stronger than that orange wafer that Alphas use.

I use 1/4w angled, works fine. You can always bump up the power handling on resistors in any circuit (if they fit).

I've done this mod to a CE-2 several times (except I want it louder). I'm not sure which resistors it is exactly on the Caesar/Julia (based on CE-2), but on the CE-2 I'll adjust R21 (dry) and R22 (wet). I usually knock these down to 42k which gives a slightly noticeable volume boost to my ears...

Paint pen for the letters, I believe. It's not powder coated, just spray paint for the base color.

I forget the exact model number (T18-C3??), but I use one of those a Hakko "mini-wave"/"spoon"/"hoof" whatever it's called. Holds solder nicely and also great at pulling excess solder if I flow a bit too much. Tons of surface area, really a pleasure to use on switch/jack lugs. It can be a bit...

Have you found a schematic? In other chorus circuits, the signal splits with a dry path and a wet path that come back together at the last opamp stage. CE-2 schematic below. In the CE-2 if you wanted to kill dry, insert a SPDT switch before R21. This will kill the dry signal. Small Clone...

R=1 Ω k=1,000 Ω M=1,000,000 Ω 820R=820 Ω 820k=820,000 Ω