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I know we keep saying MOAR SCHMORG, but I didn’t think you could. Awesome job, dude!

@rkphilpot I think you need to view it from a different angle. The on/on in my explanation is a DPDT switch and should be viewed horizontally.

Looks great! Which version did you end up building?

I could. The full idea that I have is a booster (treble or bass) into a 1 knobber (possibly 2 knobber like a Dist+ or OD) [4 selectable circuits] into another tone shaper. The boost and tone shaper would be selectable with a stomp switch. This would all go most likely into a 1590D

I do like the Varioboost and have one on my pedalboard at the moment. Also an excellent tone shaper, but works different. Same number of knobs, though. The project I have in mind is to select a 1-knob circuit then have that go through a tone shaper. So far I'm not against the Integrated Preamp.

Blu tack, poster tack. A type of sticky putty that can help hold components in place for soldering...

Sometimes when you go down a rabbit hole things can escalate really fast. I've been having some shower thoughts recently and decided to start acting on them. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/eq-before-and-after-a-circuit.21689/ A decent EQ as recommended by our local circuit wizard Chuck is...

I had a shower thought and wanted to bounce it off you guys if it's even worth pursuing. Regardless I'll breadboard something to find out for my own. Take a one knob fuzz for example (i.e Two Sticks of Derm) and build it stock. Putting a boost in front of it will produce a different sound...

Nice going, Chuck! Can you shed some light on what this section does?

Try increasing C3 for more bass to come through and beef it up a bit. 100n may be a bit much. Try 68n

For the record, trimpot 6 is a tone control, not a bias control. If you've got extra, try replacing Q5 and see if that helps

I had to think it over again, and yes - you can get all 3! In my head I was thinking that in the off position there would be a connection through C10 to ground, but that is not the case. The connection will be severed. Use an on-off-on switch.

I had to think about this for a moment. I don't think you can get all 3 options unless someone chimes in here since (we don't want to short it to ground). 2 options, definitely. You'll need a regular DPDT switch. Solder the positive end of C10 to lug 2 and the negative end to lug 5. For your...

Sure @Ginsly . D100 is a polarity protection diode. I personally know I am powering my breadboard the right way, so that's why I exclude it. In the schematic, LED and R100 are only for the power on indicator and I don't need that to make this circuit work.

Threw this together really quick this morning. Crappy playing, sweet circuit. -BtR

Great stuff here, Chuck. CMOS chips may be worth a Boneyard article to understand how the inverters work and why the topology is different than, say, an inverting opamp. I know I would be interested in reading about it.

Can you show schematics of each?

Try removing R18 and jumpering it?

Because the word "vintage" is in the description

C'mon, dude. The big one goes in the A-hole