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Before you get rid of it, you should do this at least once. It’ll put you in a trance state. You’ll see the edge of the universe!

Found a Whetstone build thread: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/phaser-monday.10638/

I remember seeing Whetstone builds in various Phaser threads, but can't remember the builders. I think maybe @Harry Klippton built one.

Removing the heavy switch will chop this section out of the circuit. It might still make noise, but it won’t work correctly. The Notch pot will just be hanging, etc, etc.

I was hooked when you used booster, VFE ice scream, and Baxandall all in one sentence. I've been distracted and away for a while, but this has me cleaning off my workbench and readying a breadboard 👨‍🔬 Slightly off-topic question: Is there a reason why the lo-cut and drive wires are twisted...

Me too! https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/2x-muff-aion-osiris-grind-customs-ultrastoner.10649/

Thanks Chuck. I’ve been away from pedals for a while. I’ve got a Mofeta board that’s half populated and I just looked at the build doc for the Brownout, I think I’ve got the five 2n5457’s on hand. I’ll queue that for the breadboard and check it out. 👍

I’m not sure if you really need all 6 choices. You could probably use a toggle switch for 1, 10, and 100nF. (Or whatever 3 seem the best)

I never posted the layout because I can't say it's verified. I changed some things when building it because the layout is a mess and not easy to build (that was putting it lightly. The build is a nightmare. The traces are too tight, components to close together, the pots are a pain. Pretty...

I’ve used a few of them. They seem fine, but I don’t play enough to make a durability comment.

Crown Jewel was the first pedal I ever built. I can’t think of a better Swiss Army knife.

I assume you checked the foot switch with your meter in both positions?

This is a pretty good setup. https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/09/test-box-20.html?m=1

Correct Correct, Omit. It switches on the pedals LED by completing the LED circuit to ground. So you can omit it.

@Robert can correct me if wrong: There were multiple versions of the original pedal. Check out this post: https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?p=120795#p120795 Your board allows you to fit either the 4u7 or the 220n cap in that spot.

D1 and D2 are back to back pairs. So it will work if both are pointed correctly or both are pointed incorrectly. So if you align “grey” with the cathode of D1, do the same thing for D2. If you have a multimeter with a diode test you could check them to see which way they flow.

I expect mouser has an equivalent, but maybe with different packaging or lead length. Maybe this one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2D024701A00KSSD?qs=ISKKXg98%252B1mmUGjEcoD4qQ%3D%3D

Pretty much any 47n film or ceramic that you can fit in the spot will work: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/polyester-film-box-type-capacitors/47uf-275v-110c-10-metallized-polypropylene-film-capacitor.html https://stompboxparts.com/capacitors/box-film-capacitors-bag-of-10/...

If we call the two posts in the center A and B, and we call the pins on the outside 1-8. Then A will contact 1,2,3,4 and B will contact 5,6,7,8 as you rotate the switch. It will be obvious when you start fiddling with it. I may have the numbering wrong, but if you rotate all the way to the...

That doesn't sound like a power supply issue, that sounds like a short in the board that is letting current cook everything. I can't walk you through specifics, but here is what my process would be: 1. Visual inspection. Look at every joint to see if there is a unwanted connection (I once...