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So, here is where I reveal my absolute stupidity. When I first surveyed my solder job I thought it looked good. Then when I ran the audio probe (as documented already) I did not test the input jack (sure, why would I, the solder job looks good?). When I finally tested the input jack (thanks...

Thanks for your help. No, I didn't test the input jack although I did test the input at the switch. I will test the input jack and see what it sounds like. I am confused as to what is wrong. It seems like it should be the switch, but I am getting a signal with the probe (though I am not sure how...

I just double-checked and yes, it is indeed hooked up correctly. So, I just built an audio probe and tested out the lugs on the switch and the output jack. When the guitar is plugged in it is still very quiet in bypass mode.

Thanks for having a look, Chuck. I had a look and the output jack is not touching the volume pot. I do not have an audio probe, but it looks like it should be easy enough to make one up. Since the pedal seems to work fine when engaged this should make the probing pretty limited I would assume...

So I tested continuity between 8 and 9 and there was continuity.

Thanks so much, guys. I will check this out tonight. Your help is greatly appreciated. My wife and I just had twins, so my free time is at an all-time low, haha.

So I am having a really frustrating issue for which I am sure there is an obvious answer I am simply too dense to see. When the pedal is engaged the thing sounds fantastic, but when it's switched into bypass mode it hardly allows any (but does allow some) sound through. I thought my switch was...

Yep, R19 is a 4.7k instead of the 47k. Thanks for the reminder to look. I didn't figure this was Musikding's fault. Someday I am going to figure all of this out––I am an idiot.

@Chuck D. Bones asked the right question earlier (as usual). I looked over the pedal several times and did not catch this. That's the problem, I put a 47k instead of 4.7k. Thanks so much @fig!

The kit does match the BOM. I have looked at orientation and it seems correct. I thought all of the joints were good, but I obviously have an issue at the LED. I will post better photos if this does not work. Thanks Chuck and @carlinb17!

Sorry for the late reply, I did not see the notification that you and @Chuck D. Bones had responded. I do know how to basically use a DMM. I took the voltages and the pedal is getting 9.34v, D100 is measuring 6.1v, and the LED is measuring all over the place. I would say this is where the...

Nothing on the breakout board. I have checked for solder bridges and can't find any and I even reflowed a few joints that looked a little on the dodgy side.

I built this pedal from a Musikding kit (they didn't have the boneyard edition) for my dad. I am not super familiar with optical compressors, but this one does not seem to be working right. The LED did not appear to be lighting up so I removed it and tested the LED and it worked fine. I socked...

Thanks for the help and the websites. I will check them out as I would really like to learn so I don't have to come on here and look stupid, haha.

Thanks for the help, I will put in the 390p and call it good.

Thanks for the reply. So, while I may not notice the difference am I right to think that it will technically allow more bass into the circuit? I know this probably isn't the place for this, but, as someone who seems to be as dense as a slab of granite when it comes to understanding how...

I realised I don't have any 330p caps laying around for this build. I do have 390p caps. How big of a difference would it make to just use the 390p cap? I am basically an idiot when it comes to understanding circuits so not sure what it would do to the tone if anything. Any help is appreciated...

Sorry for not responding quicker, I didn't get a notification that anyone had replied. Thanks for the advice. I may just stick with the lightspeed and then build a Southland later with the diode switching. I really want to play the lightspeed, but thought I might be able to get the best of both...

I was wondering, is there a good way to make the Mach 1 into a Southern Belle? I am still very much a beginner with all of this, but am I right in assuming I could add two BAT41s in between C9 and pin 5 of IC1? Also, if I want it switchable, would it be better to use the pot values, IC, and 12k...

I tried the multi-meter again and got the same result. Have I done something wrong?