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    Bitcrush

    I grabbed the Sonic Reducer from Parasit. It's technically a sample rate-reducer I guess, but it's in the spirit of what I'm looking for. Thanks!
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    Bitcrush

    Do any pedalpcb offerings do bitcrush? or similar degrading effects?
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    DEMO Paragon & Pauper 2023 Redux

    basic shipping at Mouser is $7.99 for me, isn't that pretty normal?
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    Kliche SE sanding misadventure

    I found my problem, one of my jumper wires in the wrong place. Yet another humbling diy error, carry on..
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    Kliche SE sanding misadventure

    I built the Kliche SE and hoped to use a Gorva enclosure. I checked the Gorva technical drawings and its stated inner width was wider than the Kliche SE PCB... but the board didn't fit. So I sanded down the left and right sides of the PCB until it fit in the Gorva. About a millimeter each side...
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    Distortion with multiple clipping options

    Was thinking hard clipping, but open to circuits that do both
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    Distortion with multiple clipping options

    I'm looking for a circuit that is distortion with the option to choose between several clipping diodes (germanium, silicon, LED etc). What are some options?
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    Sherwood is very bright

    I finally tried this and it does the trick. But be warned, R13 connects to VREF through the Treble 1 pad. Which means if you entirely unsolder the Treble 1 leg, you will need to run a wire from R13 to R16 to restore VREF connectivity. (I learned this because I initially thought I could get away...
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    Sherwood is very bright

    Same, having just built the Sherwood I'm hoping it's a situation where we can just cut some traces and run jumpers
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    Sherwood is very bright

    For what it's worth, all the other versions I can find also seem to connect Treble 1 to VREF. Of course, hard to know if they were traced independently, or just copied yours https://pcbguitarmania.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Forestal-Device-Building-docs.pdf...
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    Sherwood is very bright

    Never mind, found some old threads on this issue. My bad https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/sherwood-eq.1827/#post-13846 https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/sherwood-drive-how-to-add-more-low-end.1322/#post-62623
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    Sherwood is very bright

    I built the Sherwood and it seems to work great, except I have to turn Treble all the way down, and Bass up a decent amount, to approximate a "transparent" tone. I owned a real Westwood and it definitely wasn't like that with my gear, so something is up. Sounds really good though apart from this...
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    Setting trim pots for Argentum 1212 Preamp

    That's great info. Makes me wonder how many people having biasing issues were doing it with power applied, but the circuit bypassed. Regardless, it doesn't really change my grievance lol...I'd love to see that sort of information in the build doc, rather than finding it by chance in a Youtube...
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    Setting trim pots for Argentum 1212 Preamp

    Yes yes, but I still want to know the OG pedal measurements, even if it’s only a starting point to say “This is how the real pedal does it, for better or worse.” I just don’t see an argument for omitting this information; why not let the builder decide to use it or ignore it. Fwiw Madbean, Dead...
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    Setting trim pots for Argentum 1212 Preamp

    Based on this teardown video from Gray Bench Electronics, the original Jackson Audio version biases all the JFETS around 11-11.2V. Too bad, a bunch of people in this thread and the other one are trying very hard to bias all of them down to 9V. I wonder why PedalPCB does not include biasing...
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    Basic Relay Bypass (Latching) - LED changes but stays bypassed

    I thought I must be missing something obvious... in all honesty I have been misreading the build doc the ENTIRE time. From day one I thought it was just four 2n3904 transistors, completely missed that one was a 2n3906! And I'm not dyslexic (that I know of?) I replaced the incorrect transistor...
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    Basic Relay Bypass (Latching) - LED changes but stays bypassed

    No, I meant the pedal was bypassed in both states. IN jack shorted directly to OUT jack, even as the LED changed on and off. There was never continuity between the IN jack and the Copper Clad board IN. All the parts are correct including those not visible (caps/transistors/regulator). Just...
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    Basic Relay Bypass (Latching) - LED changes but stays bypassed

    Ended up abandoning the relay bypass for a standard 3PDT, and the pedal works fine now. Still interested in a basic sanity check...does this look basically correct, in terms of wiring and part orientation? It's such a simple build, I feel I must be missing something very basic. But it all looks...
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    Basic Relay Bypass (Latching) - LED changes but stays bypassed

    I'm using the Basic Relay Bypass (Latching) with the Copper Clad Fuzz. No substitutions, everything is stock part values. The LED turns on/off with the footswitch, but the sound doesn't change. The bypass board's IN and OUT pads (from the jacks) maintain continuity, regardless of the LED state...
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    Skeptical Buffer Gorva box

    In the past I've ended up sanding the PCB edges down to make it fit in Gorva boxes. Usually doesn't take much. The Skeptical Buffer has a trace on the very edge, but you could run a jumper wire from C3 to R2 if necessary
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