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If/when you build one and it doesn't sound like you wanted, sell it to a buddy. I don't recommend trying to make any sort of business of it. Especially since they're saying you need to be able to stand behind/take responsibility your product if you sell anything and you're just skipping over...

in Olas video at first he had a shit mic position but he moves the mic half way through the video time stamped it for the link

i did the little debbie version i think (dirty shirley?) and honestlyu i didn't like it much for like, brutal metal its more marshally, better for classic rock/metal revv g3 is pretty dang sick, and the aggression modes are pre boosts so you dont need an od with it at all

thats a strong claim, selling the amp cuz the pedal does it might have to order one of those boards my next order

I have a spare pre drilled hammered copper or whatever they call it from my last tayda order, definitely plan to make one in it!

which bezel did you use?/are you testing outside or in box? cuz if you are using a metal bezel it could be shorting it also i imagine putting a led on just one side should work fine

In the case of pedal pcb projects alot of them have square being negative (short lead/cathode), but yeah since its aion you could use a multimeter to see which side goes to ground.

I haven't posted about it, and I haven't tried any mods (just built it last week) so I can't really comment on that. But yeah true, plumes for low gain, g3 for the chugs

i just built a greengage and tyrian and can confirm great pedals (y) but also the aggression modes on the g3 seem to be a pre boost so dont slam it with the greengage or it will start to fuzz out but can still use it before for tone shaping in the normal mode

That yellow power wire looks like its on its last thread on the board side, and for some reason instead of using a diff color for the positive of the power you did for the negative when the wires beside it are ground for audio jacks, so I thought it looked wrong at first too. Once you've...

Well it is a gate (sorry had to) Resistors can read weird when in the circuit so as long as the color code is right then the weird ones should be right. I havent used those purple caps so i cant verify if you did correct polarity for those. The fets or ic are a safe bet to be the problem but...

It only changes the clipping/distortion/od section (led vs silicon vs opamp), so it'd be most noticeable to see the difference on higher gain settings. Also if you don't have a multimeter that you can use to check the switch real quick, you should probably get one.

I bought the rowin one and it (at least mine) was shitty. Not "tight" and also since Iran it after my boost/od, particularly my "integral preamp" or "dwarven hammer" ), when I palm mute/chug it would actually clamp down on those so almost act like a compressor that was clamping down/farting out...

Gotcha so tube, both sides of the switch didn't help, running it in fx loop, im guessing its something in the power amp, maybe the tubes are wearing out, or maybe its just normal noise cant say for sure. But cleaning it up could help if there's any random short from the extra solder sticking...

depends on where the noise is coming from for example power amp section if you are running in fx loop, if not in fx loop then of course in the amp itself you should probably clean all the flux off your board, all those pointy solder joints means too much solder and should've should be trimmed...

Would you trust this on the basis of whether you think its actually isolated in the sense of ground loops/hum/isolated output? Or if you think mains is likely to arc and mess it up etc...

Guess that leaves checking solder joints, trying another ic, and checking component values/polarity .

Well I can only see one side of the board so I cant comment on the other. But yeah its best to have it flow all or most of the way through so i'd say you should have put more solder/leave the heat on long enough for it to actually flow through. Which makes me think you have cold/bad solder...

Though you have checked the solder joints already for bridges, it looks like most of them don't have solder flowing all the way through AKA bad and/or cold connections.

But oh I forget the name of the post and didn't bookmark but I copied and pasted this part from it, this is basically what you want to follow when choosing capacitors according to chuck I think 470pF and below: silver mica or MLCC. Silver mica is better, especially in the signal path. They are...