Search results

I should've posted this in here instead probably. Here's a recent batch of different colors in case it helps anybody trying to see what some of taydas colors look like. Post in thread 'What's in the mailbox? 📬 📦'...

I spy a missing transistor in the second pic. Might have something to do with it.

Glad you got it working! Maybe the led got fried in the process?

Whenever build docs for the micro boards do come around please make sure it tells us what size for us smd newbs! I don't think 0402 was the right size. Lol I got the right size transistor and diode though. I also saw a post a while back about wanting an option for presoldered smd utility things...

I have the Guvnor board on my wishlist. I generally like having more controls but would you recommend building the Riot instead anyway? Just added the face melter to the wishlist too lol. I have to at least build it for the memes if nothing else.

Since there seems to be mixed reviews; To be fair I just built it and haven't had it for long, haven't tried it through many amps etc.... But for what I'm looking for I like it. I tried it straight into an IR and was able to dial in a tone I liked quickly. I also tried it into my vh140's clean...

I just double checked and while my meter can't quite read it (caps out at 2 M). I referenced my bag of them from tayda, and it's the same ones plus measured two in parallel since that put it in the range of being readable to make sure I wasn't reading the color code wrong and all good. But good...

Hell yeah!

Ah ok! So hopefully it is just a cap in the amp that needs to be swapped. I should try the pedal in the loop of my 5150 and see how bad the pop is. The Ampeg is solid state so at least I won't have to worry about tubes. I recently ordered some big 10w resistors cuz one of the cement resistors in...

Oh hell yeah thanks! Not sure if there is a good spot for the switch, I'll probably just run some jumpers to a bread board and try some random ones out and see how it goes.

I was able to barely fit this in a Tayda 1590a. I used the ppcb drill template to mark off some locations that seemed like they would work and that worked out for me. Lumberg small jacks are necessary obviously. The board is as far down in the 1590a as it can go and held in place by the led and...

So sick. Definitely my favorite distortion pedal that I have. I still need to build a VH4 Valhalla board and the SLO board to see how those are but screw the Friedman BEOD/Thermionic I made. (sucks if you ask me) The Revv G3/Tyrian sounds good but I like this better. (Different mid range and the...

Thanks for the tips! If it's that close to a normal 808 it should be easy for me to try to find some good mods for it or something. I haven't really looked at the circuit much but I probably should have. I definitely trusted Fortin too much on this lol.

Cool little fuzz. The girth knob when turned up makes it more gated/spitty. So this pedal doesn't really have any sort of eq control and is a fairly barebones fuzz. Maybe it's a good fuzz to mod and add a muffin crumb tone control or something? I was able to fit it into a 1590b instead of the...

Definitely a good sounding soundgoodizer! (Seriously) All the switches down and it sounds just like the original signal so I'll trust it's doing the good buffer thing in there. But once you flip the switches on it sure does liven the tone up! (Boosts the volume by a lot too) I used the middle...

Shitty tube screamer variant. Build the plumes or dunes clone or something. (Or just buy a plumes) Soundwise I have pretty much the same experience as the guys in this thread. I almost wondered if I did something wrong. It's weak. Post in thread 'Hortin FexDrive layout 3'...

Thanks for the tip! I did your test and nothing is microphonic thankfully. Also the pop isn't bad into my interface instead of the amp. Now that I'm investigating the issue I am using the pedal in the fx loop of my amp though. I tried the EUNA clone I just built also with a Dailywell switch and...

Can confirm that reflowing didn't help anything. It was already good solder joints. So I still blame the dailywell switch.

I realize many holes aren't filled with solder all the way through. Maybe I should reflow just in case it fixes the pop some how? But considering it's working well otherwise idk if it's really a soldering issue. Will reflow real quick for shits and gigs.

I had no issues with the boards/parts list. Works great. I would say it's recommended use is as a presence and depth control for amps that don't have one or like a low and high freq shelf eq. (Aka slam mode for the metal guys ;D) Some random tips and things I learned from building this recent...