I appreciate your pride to make a decent product. This is what we call in German "Handwerkerehre" - pride/honour of a craftsman.
But you had me at the word "forae" as a Latin scholar. It's not female but neutrum, so the plural of forum is fora.
I bought sets of resistors, film caps, mlcc, elco caps, colored LEDs and shrink tubes. Other parts I get from banzai and musikding, since I am located in Germany.
I rely on Björn Juhl, close the back lid and hope noone will open it again. Secret trick: No battery operation allowed.
Does anyone else seal the back with black goop or something...😝
You made me measure the cheapest set of ceramics i bought several years ago. Its a tiny plastic bag with tiny orange caps and super thin legs. The bag says 6.8nF. I measured 20 of them from 6.2 up 11.7nF, nearly all higher than 8nF. WTF?
First: Thank you for sharing the deep diving write up @mybud
Second thought was that this would be great stuff for the Pedalpcb Wiki. @PedalPCB: But it shows an invalid ssl certificate.
Yeah, loudness is a big concern in smaller venues, even for the musicians. We had an guitarist who quit playing with a band because of his hearing. He did wear protections all the time but his doc promised him to get deaf when he is older.
Asking for a friend and client. He changed from a Marshall amp to a Blackstar Amped3. Good sounds, works well in rehersal situations and recording. He uses the power out to drive a monitor box and the xlr to the mixing console.
But he had weird artefacts in live situation. The sound sometimes...
Possible. I built a fuzz with a fixed resistor as fuzz control. If you have a factory pedal, you can find your setting and put resistors in. Or use trim pots which allow to change settings with a screw driver.
As i understand it this pedal tries to sound like an amp. Without the amp tone controls it will sound different, even if the control are on a neutral setting. And a whole lot louder.
Folks here created PCBs with Chuck's mod
R11 - 1.5K
R12 - 5.6K
C5 - 1uF
C6 - 220nF
I made szukalkis speedysheep with that switchable mod. The C6 really changed the mids and fattened it. So you better should stay with the 100nF.
Best bet would be to breadboard it and check out for yourself.
Just for sanity: you didn't mix up input and output?
Otherwise you need a signaltracer. If you hear the bias knob, the break must be before that point.