5lb Bag Fuzz

Synchrony Pedalworks

Synchrony Pedalworks

Well-known member
This is a versatile pedal. I feel that it provides distortion > fuzz. It is an easy build with easy to acquire parts. That being stated, I had some trouble. The pedal worked, but sounded mis-biased. I tried checked my parts, but in the end, I had a faulty 2N3906.

Also, I have been frustrated with the champagne enclosures. Like the chromium finish, I think they are easily blemished. I have had two of these enclosures that would not buff out the blemish. With the other one, I used lemon oil and that took some of the finish off. The last photo shows the blemishes to the left of the footswitch.

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Synchrony Pedalworks said:
This is a versatile pedal. I feel that it provides distortion > fuzz. It is an easy build with easy to acquire parts. That being stated, I had some trouble. The pedal worked, but sounded mis-biased. I tried checked my parts, but in the end, I had a faulty 2N3906.

Also, I have been frustrated with the champagne enclosures. Like the chromium finish, I think they are easily blemished. I have had two of these enclosures that would not buff out the blemish. With the other one, I used lemon oil and that took some of the finish off. The last photo shows the blemishes to the left of the footswitch.

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Looking good, I will also build one.
Regarding the frustration with the finish... I love Tayda ball silver but the same thing happens. Seems like any handling produces marks. So my last few, I handle gently and apply decal then spray them with Spraymax 2k clear. That solved the problem for me.
 
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Looks great! Just don’t tell me it’s the best fuzz you’ve tried. 😎 I have the Grover Drive, I believe they’re very similar pedals or I remember reading that theres something similar about them, populated and about ready to go.
 
Whatever powder they use in general is very sub par or their curing process is not dialed in at all.... The finishes look good and they package them pretty well but..... If 99% iso can melt into a powder coated finish something is really wrong. They are possibly under curing with temperature or time...... I happen to have a giant "Global Finishing" powder curing oven at work for my department I run.. It's Natural Gas fired and 20'x20'x15' inside.... We use it to cure liquid coatings after flash off and run it at much lower temps than a powder coating operation would... I'm curing at 140F versus 375F+.. My guess is a bit of both for their enclosure runs.. really cheap powder and not enough time in the oven between batches. I've bought the cheapest powder I could find , made a mess in the spray booth with an eastwood powder coating gun and ran them through our oven..... The things I powder coated get beat on all the time around here and look good as new when you knock the dust off them with no chipping or peeling.
 
swelchy said:
Whatever powder they use in general is very sub par or their curing process is not dialed in at all.... The finishes look good and they package them pretty well but..... If 99% iso can melt into a powder coated finish something is really wrong. They are possibly under curing with temperature or time...... I happen to have a giant "Global Finishing" powder curing oven at work for my department I run.. It's Natural Gas fired and 20'x20'x15' inside.... We use it to cure liquid coatings after flash off and run it at much lower temps than a powder coating operation would... I'm curing at 140F versus 375F+.. My guess is a bit of both for their enclosure runs.. really cheap powder and not enough time in the oven between batches. I've bought the cheapest powder I could find , made a mess in the spray booth with an eastwood powder coating gun and ran them through our oven..... The things I powder coated get beat on all the time around here and look good as new when you knock the dust off them with no chipping or peeling.
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I just noticed this recently. I did a 350f ten minute bake for a decal and the powder coat melted. I also have used acetone on Tayda enclosures... on one enclosure no problem, on another it ate right down to the aluminum. I do not know if it has always been like this but it is the first I am noticing.
 
I assume different powdercoats have at least some degree of variation of manufactur's recommended temp and time. Assuming that, I'll also assume tayda likely operates on a "close enough" set point. Given the scale of operation and number of colors offered, they likely just run everything at one time and temp setting. Maybe they batch higher temp/time coats together?
 
Synchrony Pedalworks said:
Also, I have been frustrated with the champagne enclosures. Like the chromium finish, I think they are easily blemished. I have had two of these enclosures that would not buff out the blemish. With the other one, I used lemon oil and that took some of the finish off. The last photo shows the blemishes to the left of the footswitch.

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Hi, I got the Ball Silver a while ago & Champagne recently, Never again to both, almost seems like paint finish not Powder coat.
Lucky it was one offs, Once Bitten, Twice Shy!
I had to Clear Coat both.
 
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