- Build Rating
I’ve always wanted a Uni-vibe to get a Gilmourish tone. Thought I’d build one to try out on my board. I’m happy with the results.
One thing I changed was subbing Q1 out with MPSA 13 for a bit more gain and changing R21 to 4M7 to correct for bias. I tried different colors for the LFO LED, but ended up with yellow again. Yellow and green I found to be the best response with the GL5528 LDRs I used.
Another thing was I know the LFO is notorious for stalling out too and I wanted a rate LED, so in lieu of a breadboard, I stuck legs in where R22 is and used alligator clips to play with proper resistance for R22. For the outgoing leg of R22, I used an alligator clips tied into an LED. I found changing R22 to 6k8, adding a 47k resistor from R22 to the LED, and 15k from LED to ground helped a lot. The rate LED keeps a good voltage that isn’t affect by the “voice” pot and the LFO hasn’t stalled on me yet with maxing out any pot. As you lower the the value of R22, you can see a bigger fluctuation/amplitude of the LFO LED. The resistors before/after the LED were just where I ended up to keep about 2.8V on the LED.
I played with capacitors too, but i didn’t find much that helped with the issue I have with the “Voice” knob. Voice changes the max/min brightness of the LFO LED. To the right, it includes more treble and more bass to the right. The last 10% of each end just results in a muddy crap tone. That’s another reason I played with LED colors, but nah. I’ll leave it and might change LDRs or capacitors in a future build.
As the finishing touches, I love the Alexandrite colored enclosure from Stomp Box Parts and used reflective knobs that I thought matched well. I screwed up the decal twice, but left the second try for now. Used a clear printable label. Just put it about 1/8” to the left and the decal has bubbles under it that I couldn’t get out. Crap.
All in all, a good sounding pedal after a few tweaks. Just still irritated about the decal…maybe I’ll fix it in the future.
One thing I changed was subbing Q1 out with MPSA 13 for a bit more gain and changing R21 to 4M7 to correct for bias. I tried different colors for the LFO LED, but ended up with yellow again. Yellow and green I found to be the best response with the GL5528 LDRs I used.
Another thing was I know the LFO is notorious for stalling out too and I wanted a rate LED, so in lieu of a breadboard, I stuck legs in where R22 is and used alligator clips to play with proper resistance for R22. For the outgoing leg of R22, I used an alligator clips tied into an LED. I found changing R22 to 6k8, adding a 47k resistor from R22 to the LED, and 15k from LED to ground helped a lot. The rate LED keeps a good voltage that isn’t affect by the “voice” pot and the LFO hasn’t stalled on me yet with maxing out any pot. As you lower the the value of R22, you can see a bigger fluctuation/amplitude of the LFO LED. The resistors before/after the LED were just where I ended up to keep about 2.8V on the LED.
I played with capacitors too, but i didn’t find much that helped with the issue I have with the “Voice” knob. Voice changes the max/min brightness of the LFO LED. To the right, it includes more treble and more bass to the right. The last 10% of each end just results in a muddy crap tone. That’s another reason I played with LED colors, but nah. I’ll leave it and might change LDRs or capacitors in a future build.
As the finishing touches, I love the Alexandrite colored enclosure from Stomp Box Parts and used reflective knobs that I thought matched well. I screwed up the decal twice, but left the second try for now. Used a clear printable label. Just put it about 1/8” to the left and the decal has bubbles under it that I couldn’t get out. Crap.
All in all, a good sounding pedal after a few tweaks. Just still irritated about the decal…maybe I’ll fix it in the future.
