Advice on Baby’s First Breadboard?

mkstewartesq

Well-known member
I know this forum is mainly for smart people to teach stuff, and not necessarily dumb people like me to ask questions but I wasn’t sure which other forum would be better for this.

Obviously I work a lot with PCBs and, of late, more stripboard builds. But stripboards really come with their own set of hassles and heartaches. Finding a verified circuit, making all the cuts and links, sawing between the tracks to eliminate shorts, assembly, offboard wiring, installing tons of sockets if you want to try different values – and then you find out that a layout that was “verified” really wasn’t verified after all – you see people popping up in the comments section identifying issues with the layout and suggesting fixes years later – or, worse, you go through all of that and find out you really didn’t like the sound of the pedal all that much in the first place and probably wouldn’t have built it.

So I was thinking to myself “is there any way I can figure out how to build a stripboard where I could just replace components at will, or tear it down and start over if I didn’t like it” – but I couldn’t really figure out how to deal with the issue of cuts. Then ole Brainiac here thought: “A breadboard. You’re trying to invent a breadboard.”

So I’ve been watching videos learning the basics of breadboarding. I’ve got tons of components and wire. Learning to read schematics is a work in progress and I’m sure there will be a lot of trial and error but I think I at least have the barest basics of it to start trialing and erroring.

Unfortunately, I placed my largest order ever with Tayda just before I realized I wanted to get into bread boarding, so I’m not gonna pay them $15 in shipping to ship eight dollars of breadboard supplies – so I’ll need to go to the Amazon route or similar. My questions for all you fine people are:

1. First Breadboard: Given that I’m here in this community, obviously my focus is going to be on breadboarding pedals. I’m less into the simple fuzzes and more into things like modulation and delays. While I’m not planning to dive into building an Electric Mistress, Memory Man or UniVibe right off the bat, what is a good size of bread board that you recommend for someone just starting out that will also give me room to grow as I start tackling more complex schematics?

2. Other Stuff: What other day-one supplies would you recommend I pick up beyond just the breadboard? As noted, I already have tons of solid core wire and pretty much every component you would need to build a pedal except the actual PCB (pots, jacks, switches, all of the fun stuff that electricity runs through). I’m assuming I would need some alligator clips and things like that but I’m not sure what else I might not be thinking of.
Any and all thoughts and comments are appreciated.

Best,
Mike
 
First, get one of @Robert’s test platforms Protoboard, Auditorium, what have you). Having reliable power and I/O relieves uncertainty and stress and they are super-convenient.

For pots and switches, I use PCB mount 16mm pots with adapter wires as in the pic. Switches I mod by soldering the male end of the same adapters.

Breadboarding is really good to get hands 🙌 on with them little electrons.

Hope this helps a bit.

I’ll do a write-up on the picture at some point (a recent Simulcast exercise) during which I proceeded to make errors that seem to indicate the severest addlepated-ness. I’ll fix these tomorrow.

Best of luck and enjoy.
 
Leads MUST be perpendicular to the board or there can be consequences. Don't get in a hurry.

IMO they are all garbage, but necessary garbage.

They are an expendable. Do not get attached.

I tend to put a PTC fuse on the power rails because stupid happens.


I grew to hate it so much I went through a phase of just building ideas on cheap vero board. This inspired the desoldering station.. :)
 
First, get one of @Robert’s test platforms Protoboard, Auditorium, what have you). Having reliable power and I/O relieves uncertainty and stress and they are super-convenient.

For pots and switches, I use PCB mount 16mm pots with adapter wires as in the pic. Switches I mod by soldering the male end of the same adapters.
Thank you! Man, I wish I'd seen the Protoboard before I pulled the trigger on the big Tayda order as it would've simplified things, especially around the pots (I was actually doing a big Tayda run because I'm about to order several boards from Robert).

But I've at least got the Auditorium to use for power and I/O (and I honestly wouldn't have thought of using it that way had you not mentioned it.)

Are your adapter wires self-made or are there pre-made onle I can be looking for?

Thanks again.
 
Baby's first breadboard, eh?

As mentioned above, I think a protoboard is your best bet from here unless you'd really like to design your own. That way you'll need 2 of the big, 830 point breadboards. I've been successful with the ones from Tayda and Amazon (haven't gotten any in a few years).

If you don't want a protoboard you can get by with alligator clips, (2) 1/4" jacks, a power supply, jumpers, maybe some voltage regulators (5v, 3.3v, etc), a charge pump (you can find a decent stripboard layout for them and keep it in your stash when you need it).
For pots you have some options. If you don't really care about the sweep, then find a box of various trimmers on ebay or Amazon. They're good in a pinch. You could also pull the trigger on a large pot order from Tayda of various values and tapers. Solder lug ones are decent, but have a tendency to pull the wire out of the breadboard when turning the knobs (ask me how I know). You could also use some stripboard to mount some terminal block and header pins to use with some female-to-male jumper wires (pretty much building a protoboard at this point).

1742500861685.png

With tons of solid core wire at your disposal you can make your own jumper wires. I made them as needed until I was tired of stopping the breadboard build all the time to make more jumpers. Then I had an idea to make color coded jumpers. Green spanned 3 holes, yellow spanned 4 holes, etc. After a few hours of doing this off and on I was so sick of trying to be so precise that I pretty much caved in and bought a pack of jumpers from the big A.


You can get the jumpers from Tayda, but they can make your breadboard build very messy with all that extra wire. Simple dirt pedals you'll be ok with this method. The more components the messier it gets.

I know you mentioned you're not interested in simple fuzzes, but that may be the best way to start to figure out how to breadboard from a schematic. There are a bunch of tutorials in the Test Kitchen for some good hand holding. Once you've got the basics down maybe start down the delay or reverb path (think PT2399 or Belton Brick). THEN I would suggest trying modulation.

Here are some other tips:
 
I know you mentioned you're not interested in simple fuzzes, but that may be the best way to start to figure out how to breadboard from a schematic. There are a bunch of tutorials in the Test Kitchen for some good hand holding. Once you've got the basics down maybe start down the delay or reverb path (think PT2399 or Belton Brick). THEN I would suggest trying modulation.

Buddy - thank you, sincerely for all of this. And I feel a bit of an idiot for not first finding all of your tutorial threads - before posting, I first searched for threads on breadboarding but I think I limited my search to this forum, basically forgetting that The Test Kitchen existed because it's not a place I've ventured into much before.

As to the quoted point above - I chose my words poorly. Absolutely I'm going to need to start with the most simple stuff first, not turning my nose up at anything. We're talking starting with "can I make the LED light up?" simple stuff (just like I learned soldering on a 'make the LED light up" Christmas ornament" before I built my first treble booster). My comment regarding my interests went more toward my question of what size size of board would be suitable for a variety of pedals with room to grow since my ultimate goals would be more complex (not hugely complex, but more) types of circuits.

M
 
My comment regarding my interests went more toward my question of what size size of board would be suitable for a variety of pedals with room to grow since my ultimate goals would be more complex (not hugely complex, but more) types of circuits.
The bigger the breadboard, the better. It gives you more room to spread out. Any circuit that can be built on a smaller breadboard can be built on a big one. The Protoboard gets (2) 830 point breadboards. That's more than enough room for a single circuit.
 
I am only a couple months in but having a blast with bread boarding. I got the Bojack breadboard for my first, it came with 4 breadboards and a bunch of flexible wires, it was like $10 on amazon.

The protoboard is rad, it is great having all those options right there. I added velcro to mine so I can remove a board and put in a clean one. This way I don't have to tear them down if I want to work on a different circuit.

Another is greenies. I have been using wimas and similar capacitors for PPCB builds but last Tayda order I bought a bunch of greenies in most popular values. They have leads I can stretch and get around things, they are like 2 cents each so if/when I fry them I am not worried and most importantly they look cool!

Other components, sounds like you have a good stock pile, but its good to have extra of things dedicated to this. That way if/when you fry something, it's not screwing up a build.

As Buddy mentioned, the precut solid core leads are also nice. You don't have to deal with cutting 100 wires and they are already standard sizing so they fit exactly at standard intervals.
 
Thank you, all. This is not to cut the thread off (please keep the advice coming) - but just an update that I bought about $50 of starter stuff off Amazon (for about what I probably would have paid $15 for on Taysa, but I wanted it here to start playing with this weekend). It's enough to help get my feet under me, and I can invest in further/better stuff later.

- 860 tie board with metal backing plate
- a LOT of female pin headers (again, could have had on Tayda for a song) because I am going to set up a stripboard breakout board for pots;
- jumper pack (I have more solid core wire than I will ever need, but I'm sold on the convenience of pre-cut jumpers)
- male and female jumper adapters, as wells a alligator clips (too early to know what I will and won't need yet, and the cost wasn't so high as to keep me from picking it up just to be safe).

(I way over-bought when I first dove into this hobby, so luckily have things I bought but haven't used much, like tweezers).

I'll use the Auditorium for now for IO and power; I'll need to hold on the Protoboard until next time I make a run at Tayda or Mouser. Also, since I've never done SMD and don't have the best eyesight, I'm still a little apprehensive about the small amount of SMD work involved.

Thanks again! Now off to read all of the tutorials in the Test Kitchen.
 
my first dip into breadboarding was with the Protoboard Micro and a 400 point tie board.
it's an excellent setup.
I was surprised with what i could squeeze on there (big muff, rat, tremolo), it's not just for fuzz faces and rangemasters.

but the time came for bigger things and then i ordered a couple bigger sizes from mouser.
since breadboards are finicky and can be woeful if poor quality, and the advice i read on here was to get BusBoard brand, that's what i ordered, and IMO they're very well priced. here's a thread on my current rig

also, these have been well worth the 99c
 
my first dip into breadboarding was with the Protoboard Micro and a 400 point tie board.
it's an excellent setup.
I was surprised with what i could squeeze on there (big muff, rat, tremolo), it's not just for fuzz faces and rangemasters.

but the time came for bigger things and then i ordered a couple bigger sizes from mouser.
since breadboards are finicky and can be woeful if poor quality, and the advice i read on here was to get BusBoard brand, that's what i ordered, and IMO they're very well priced. here's a thread on my current rig

also, these have been well worth the 99c


Thanks for the tip, and I like your set up! I appreciate the reference to Busboards - I’m looking at them now and they are priced pretty comparably to the Amazon but apparently a better quality so now I’m thinking of ditching the Amazon board (which was actually 1660 ties) and maybe just buying everything from Mouser and going for quality over instant gratification.
 
Thanks for the tip, and I like your set up! I appreciate the reference to Busboards - I’m looking at them now and they are priced pretty comparably to the Amazon but apparently a better quality so now I’m thinking of ditching the Amazon board (which was actually 1660 ties) and maybe just buying everything from Mouser and going for quality over instant gratification.
the cheaper 400 point bb i got was a 'MULTICOMP' brand, it's held up ok, but with these busboard branded ones i've immediately noticed an improvement in quality.
given the time that goes into it, i think it's well worth the extra cost
 
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You probably know this Wampler has a good course on breadboarding and JHS does a free series on youtube called short circuit all about bread boarding and pedal building. Also check out the Jameco Breadboards which I highly recommend and checkout wampler breadboard module . Another good tool is a signal tracer/injector pen is a handy tool for trouble shooting your circuit .
Actually I was not aware of a lot of of those so thanks! I watched the first JHS video this morning, which covers exactly what I need and will be the most intense part of the learning for me, since I’m still really weak at reading schematics – namely how to actually lay things out on the board to make the connections shown in the schematic. So I really appreciate it!

Mike
 
It was the JHS Short Circuit that first got me into breadboarding—I really like the format and how he explains things.

I also have the Wampler class and went through the super basic sections, like what a resistor is. You have to skip past those to get to the actual breadboarding. I got a bit sidetracked with life and PPCB projects, so I need to revisit it. It’s always on sale, but right now, it’s 40% off. I bought it with a 25% discount and still think it’s worth it, especially after previewing the IC sections later in the course.
 
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