SOLVED Aion Fx TS-50 > problem

[scabiosa]

Hey guys

I enjoyed building the TS-50 preamp friom Aion FX, unfortunately there is something wrong, bypassed sound is ok. No light burning or sound withe the effect engaged.

T think I did it all fine. I was not sure about the wiring to the jacks, but found some pics online and based it on the pictures.

I struggled a bit with the components: sometimes the naming was different on the instruction and on the components, but after searching on the internet I think I found my way, but on some components I am still not sure:

- C5 1uF > i used .1J63
- C11 100n > i used WIMA 0,1 63-
- C20-21 100n MLCC capacitor, X7R > i Used 104Z F-

Any electronic wizards who can see the problem? I double checked most solderings... polarity of components are also fine I guess...

In attachment some pics and the instruction PDF.



Thanks a lot!

Emmanuel

 

[mybud]

A bit hard to tell from the pics, but are the lower pots insulated for starters? If not, the exposed metal will cause problems connecting where they should not. Normally one uses plastic pot seals (available from Tayda and various others) to prevent this.

 

[eh là bas ma]

Hello, welcome !


Dear fellow forumite, looks like a few of these soldering pads are missing some solder. Let's remember that good soldering joints are important, so that the circuit can work correctly. A clean tip and the iron temperature are also important to be able to make a good soldering joint (usually between 370 and 400 C°).

Your wiring looks good, but you should check the connections between the pcb pads, 3PDT pcb pads, and the jacks. A multimeter set on continuity test will be required. Check all connections, and make sure that the ground network is correct, all ground points should be connected to each other. Also make sure that the pcb 9V+ pad reads 9V when the power supply is plugged in.

If the status led isn't lighting up, either the led is fried or not correctly oriented, or the led resistor value is wrong (LEDR 4.7k), or there isn't 9V+ coming to that resistor. A diode test and some continuity tests with your multimeter, following the schematics, should help you resolve this issue.

I struggled a bit with the components: sometimes the naming was different on the instruction and on the components

You should measure each components with your multimeter before populating the board. It takes some time and it's a tidious step, but it's the only way to make sure there won't be any value mistake. It will spare you some doubts and some time if you need to troubleshoot the circuit later, wich happens quite often to every diy stompbox builders.

- C5 1uF > i used .1J63
- C11 100n > i used WIMA 0,1 63-
- C20-21 100n MLCC capacitor, X7R > i Used 104Z F-

I am not an electronic wizard (...yet) but surely in most circuits the correct values are required. My first step would be to put the correct values everywhere.

.1J63 means 100n, 0.163 isn't 100n, 104ZF doesn't look like 100n, more like 10uF i think. These values are all wrong, unfortunately.
I guess you don't have a multimeter, or you wouldn't have made these confusions. A simple capacitor test would have shown you the real values.

I am afraid you are going to need a multimeter, lucky for us they are quite cheap. I recommend a VC97A model from any brand. They are cheap and feature some Hz readings, that will be most useful with modulation builds later (for the Flintlock flanger for exemple, the best flanger of all times).

If you really have to make a substitution (obsolete parts, etc...) i would suggest to post on a forum like this one, to ask what components will work in a similar manner, if you don't know for sure. Post your question before moving forward. Or at least, use sockets, to make it easier to change the part later.

Here is a very useful link, to learn how to write a troubleshooting post, in order to make it easier and faster to debug :

DEBUGGING - What to do when it doesn't work

DEBUGGING - What to do when it doesn't work

www.diystompboxes.com

 

[scabiosa]

thanks!

C5 was indeed wrong, i should have used the 1J63 instead of the .1...

I checked all the solderings and more you suggested (they looked so bad cause I did them on the other side of the pcb the first time)
all the grounds are connected, the 9v is coming into the pcb... I also redid the wiring.

But problem is still the same.

new pics in the attachment

thanks for helping me out!!! <3

 

[eh là bas ma]

I would put more solder on the 3PDT pads. Do it quickly and let it cool off before moving to the next pad, to avoid overheating and melting the 3PDT, they are quite sensitive.

What about the pots insulation, preventing them from shorting the pcb soldering pads ? Are we sure these pieces of tape are enough ? No tiny holes in the tape made by the sharp ends of the components ?

What about the led diode test ? Is it correctly oriented ? does it light up if you test it with your multimeter ? Is there 9V going to one end of the LEDR ?

Do you have a multimeter ?

 

[Nic]

That snapped board pieces had traces running through it. See my added zones.

 

[scabiosa]

Yes! Nic to the rescue!!! Problem solved!! snapped board pieces were indeed the problem, love you Nic! Pedal is working now.

 

[Nic]

Yes! Nic to the rescue!!! Problem solved!! snapped board pieces were indeed the problem, love you Nic! Pedal is working now.

Glad to know that was the only problem and you got it working!