Ambassador - Matchless Hotbox project

[Anton K]

Ah, that explains a bit. 250mA is not enough for Ambassador, 500mA is pretty much the minimum required. I typically recommend at least 600mA for dual-tube builds.

I have my eyes peeled out - but did not find that info. I suspected it, but didn‘t find in the docu. Ok ,well than, I am going to get a 600mA thingy.

 

[Anton K]

Hi Vigilante, some time later … should the ambassador have line-out level?

 

[vigilante398]

Hi Vigilante, some time later … should the ambassador have line-out level?

It could have it now if you want it. There is a 220k resistor in line with the clean level pot and a 100k in line with the dirty level pot. Jumper those and you'll get a much hotter output.

 

[Anton K]

Btw.: when I switch off the Box on-of for testing, the output is much more less after switching on again. After some hours left alone without further change all is fine again.
(And, while I'm at it - what does the NE555 do? Its a timer, right?)

 

[ninjagrips]

I built one of these a couple months ago, and used a different enclosure. Last week I removed the grey powder coating and painted the base black.

I need to get a silhouette or something to make some nice vinyl decals.

 

[vigilante398]

I built one of these a couple months ago, and used a different enclosure. Last week I removed the grey powder coating and painted the base black.

I need to get a silhouette or something to make some nice vinyl decals.
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Looks great!

 

[Feral Feline]

@ninjagrips , that's a huge improvement over stock Hammond colours!

 

[ninjagrips]

Thanks y’all! It was a major chore removing the powder coating and getting the bare steel looking the way I wanted it.

I had to use a brass brush on my angle grinder, and then I tried a flap disc, which wasn’t doing what I wanted, so I went with a rotary sander and that did it. I had to be real deliberate with the sanding in order to get it looking uniform.

I knew it wouldn’t be easy, but dang, it took me some time to get it to where I liked it.

Iirc, I had to mount the switch daughter board differently than was recommended in the directions, in order to ensure enough space for using the switch to mount the entire assembly.

Then I used some adhesive zip tie mounts to help hold the board securely.

Thanks so much to Sushi Box for making these available! Next I want to do a Diplomat and a Harlot clone. I’d love to have a DIY Hiwatt or Marshall clone as well.

I used to have a Kingsley Maiden V2, and I miss it. I hope you continue to release awesome DIY PCBs, this was a fun project and it sounds great!