Black Eye bass switch

Betty Wont

Well-known member
Ok, so I’ve built the black eye stock and the bass version (2x1uf caps for 47uf) and I love them both a bunch. I’d really like to build one with the caps on a toggle. Do you think I could fit a 3pdt toggle above the tip of the tube? And would it be advisable to run wires from those pads in this circuit? Alternatively, is there a slightly vertically longer enclosure that I could fit a foot switch low, closer to the pads? I’d probably use a 4pdt and add an led going that route.
 
Ok, so I’ve built the black eye stock and the bass version (2x1uf caps for 47uf) and I love them both a bunch. I’d really like to build one with the caps on a toggle. Do you think I could fit a 3pdt toggle above the tip of the tube? And would it be advisable to run wires from those pads in this circuit? Alternatively, is there a slightly vertically longer enclosure that I could fit a foot switch low, closer to the pads? I’d probably use a 4pdt and add an led going that route.
Is it a 1590BB, if so there is a 1590Q which is aprox.120 x 120.
I used it on my Black Eye V.1 coz I wanted Top Jacks.
Hammond is the only one I know that does it.
Mouser seems to be the only stock available at this time!

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Is there any way to squeeze a toggle in above the PCB? Trying to remember how much room I gave you in that one, I'll have to take a look at one of mine.

Shouldn't be an issue running wires offboard to a switch, the cathodes aren't super sensitive lines.

You don't need a 3PDT or 4PDT though. The way I do it in my "Black Eye II" is actually to leave the 1uF caps in circuit and run the 47uF caps in parallel with them for 48uF. You can leave the negative end of the caps connected and just switch the positive end, so a DPDT is fine if you don't need an LED, or a 3PDT will do it if you want the LED.
 
Is there any way to squeeze a toggle in above the PCB? Trying to remember how much room I gave you in that one, I'll have to take a look at one of mine.

Shouldn't be an issue running wires offboard to a switch, the cathodes aren't super sensitive lines.

You don't need a 3PDT or 4PDT though. The way I do it in my "Black Eye II" is actually to leave the 1uF caps in circuit and run the 47uF caps in parallel with them for 48uF. You can leave the negative end of the caps connected and just switch the positive end, so a DPDT is fine if you don't need an LED, or a 3PDT will do it if you want the LED.
Parallel! Yes! I think I can squeeze a dpdt where I want it. I don’t need led on a toggle, but a foot switch I’d want a position indicator. Thank you!!!
 
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