Black Friday / Cyber Monday PAS Deal: Squier Classic Vibe 60's Strat Project (Pic Heavy)

So, I was looking more into this. I don't think it was anything wrong with the Musiclily pickguard, nor anything wrong with the holes as drilled from Fender/Squier factory.

I was looking at the WD Music strat pickguards and paying attention to the screw hole locations....and just so happened to notice they sell an "Old Style" pickguard for the 1962 AVRI Strat that's 11 holes...but it's got the top-middle screw in a slightly different location than almost all the other 11-hole Strat guards they sell.

Well, the stock holes and pickguard in the 60s CV Strat seem to use the same pickguard and holes as the '62 AVRI. I guess it is period-accurate! The Musiclily guard uses the "modern" 11-hole layout. So they are both "right," just slightly different.

So, perhaps that can be some future reference - it seems like the 60's CV Strat uses the same pickguard/hole layout as the '62 AVRI Strat.
It’s actually pretty amazing that they go to such level of detail but the whole Classic Vibe line has period correct spec’s with the exception of the tonewoods of course and the body thickness. I actually like the slightly thinner body of the CV spec, slightly lighter and slightly more comfy.
 
That looks awesome. The ground screwed into the body wood is odd for sure. I've had a few guitars with that black shielding paint, but I don't know how well it actually works. I have a vague memory of using a multimeter on it and not even getting continuity from one section of paint to the other. I use copper tape now.
 
It’s actually pretty amazing that they go to such level of detail but the whole Classic Vibe line has period correct spec’s with the exception of the tonewoods of course and the body thickness. I actually like the slightly thinner body of the CV spec, slightly lighter and slightly more comfy.

I wonder when they started having a thinner body? The original run CVs built by Farida used full thickness bodies with period correct specs. You could take any vintage American specs and they'd drop right in.
 
I wonder when they started having a thinner body? The original run CVs built by Farida used full thickness bodies with period correct specs. You could take any vintage American specs and they'd drop right in.
Cost savings I'm sure...I mean it's not dramatic. Vintage US spec body is 1 3/4", "import spec" like the Squires are 1.69".
The CV line WILL still take most vintage spec hardware with the exception of the trem. It uses a shorter trem block.
But it's not like a standard trem block will poke WAY out the back, you just won't be able to put a cover on. (I don't use trem cavity covers)

The trem hole spacing is also a bit narrower....again which I LIKE. I prefer either 2 1/8" "vintage" spacing or the 2 1/16 "import" spacing as it gives me a little more "real estate" on the upper part of the fingerboard to prevent the string slipping off..........(from sloppy playing...... :p)
 
Last step (for now) is a bit of cleanup and some small tweaks.

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I'm trying out these "Raw Vintage" tremolo springs. Seems like 75% of people say they're awesome and worth every penny and a great upgrade while 25% say they do absolutely nothing and have no noticeable effect whatsoever. First impression is that it's not a particularly pronounced night-and-day difference but it does feel quite nice and smooth on the whole. I don't know if I notice any "acoustic" differences but the action is smoother and they're definitely much lower tension. All five of these is about the same as three factory springs. They are relatively cheap so not too bad to try out overall. And you get some mojo points of course.

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Next we will do a bit of fret polishing. Overall the frets are in good shape. I couldn't find any noticeable high spots or really any "work" needing to be done but they could use cleaned up and smoothed out. I'm sure there are a million different compounds that would work just fine; I see some people even just use toothpaste as a mild abrasive. I use this Mother's polish. It's pretty gentle and a tub is about $4 and should last you a lifetime of guitars. I mask the fretboard to be safe, but honestly I'm not sure if it's even necessary. This stuff's super mild and I think you'd really have to be trying to do any noticeable damage. But I digress... I use a small felt wheel in my dremel and the job's done in just five minutes or so.

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My fretboard oil of choice at the moment. I'm sure plenty of others will work just fine, too. I read someone recommending this stuff YEARS ago and bought a bottle for cheap and it's still got plenty left. It does about what you would expect any fretboard oil to do, I guess.

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Straplock buttons are installed. I already have plenty of straps with the locks themselves so figured I could save a fair bit by just ordering a set of buttons. It was only like $6 for the buttons alone vs about $18 for the whole set. I'm honestly not too picky on straplocks but most of my guitars have Dunlops already so I've stuck with them for consistency/interchangeability. My one gripe is that the screws that come with them are so soft. I don't know if it's to prevent stripping out what but they get chewed up SO easily. You really need to pre-drill your hole out a bit or you will probably strip out the screw before getting it seated all the way.

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And finally some strings! It came from the factory with 9's. I usually play 11's and have been a D'addario guy for as long as I can remember. Maybe it's nonsense but I didn't want to jump straight from 9's to 11's so I figured I'd put on a set of 10's to "acclimate" before moving up to 11's and tweaking the setup. But Amazon just happened to be out of D'addario 10's and my local shops all charge like double or triple for a pack of strings, so I just ordered the cheapest 10s I could find via Prime. Here's the result. They sound...like strings. Hahah. I've never really been one to notice a ton of tonal difference between different string formulations. Nickel wound vs pure nickel vs coated or whatever doesn't do much for me. I can tell a difference between the sound of various sizes (though I suspect that has as much to do with EQ/setup/pickup distance/etc) and some seem to last longer than others but I don't notice any big difference between brand new strings of the same size when it comes to sound/tone. They're fine. I have a long-running subscription for D'addario 11's and that's what will ultimately wind up on here.

Overall I am really pleased with the guitar and after fiddling a bit around with it I like it even more! I can't say enough for the value of these Classic Vibe models at the moment. Honestly I have wondered if the CV's aren't in part responsible for Fender making the MIM's into the "Player Series" and upping the price because at the old MIM prices I think the Squier CVs were simply a flat-out better instrument. Makes me wonder if they weren't cannibalizing their own sales a bit and so tweaked the lines/ranges to make it seem more distinct (or to make the higher price have you thinking you're getting a lot more instrument. I don't think the CVs are far off from current Player Series, either).

As far as what's next? I need to do a proper full setup. It's not bad but as above was set for 9's so will need some work for 11s (and probably even 10s, tbh). I may throw on some locking tuners. It's not a "need" and I don't mind the vintage style ones but locking sure are convenient...
Maybe see about changing out the tremolo block. That's another one that seems like some people say it's a huge difference and others say it does nothing. Going to sit on it a while before that one. Same with the saddles. Otherwise though...not a lot left to be done but play it!
Curse you Aquascum! You made me buy a set of those Raw Vintage springs to check out ......... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
Cost savings I'm sure...I mean it's not dramatic. Vintage US spec body is 1 3/4", "import spec" like the Squires are 1.69".
The CV line WILL still take most vintage spec hardware with the exception of the trem. It uses a shorter trem block.
But it's not like a standard trem block will poke WAY out the back, you just won't be able to put a cover on. (I don't use trem cavity covers)

The trem hole spacing is also a bit narrower....again which I LIKE. I prefer either 2 1/8" "vintage" spacing or the 2 1/16 "import" spacing as it gives me a little more "real estate" on the upper part of the fingerboard to prevent the string slipping off..........(from sloppy playing...... :p)

It's enough that I'd probably try and hunt one of the earlier ones if I was in the market though. I've had a 50s tele in butterscotch (which I still have), 60s tele sunburst , 60s strat sunburst and a Simon Neil cv strat in fiesta red(I don't know if this model was available in USA). They were all 2011-2014 and all of them were full size bodies and US dimensions for bridges etc. I had a callaham bridges on my 50s tele and the Simon Neil strat for a while.
 
It's enough that I'd probably try and hunt one of the earlier ones if I was in the market though. I've had a 50s tele in butterscotch (which I still have), 60s tele sunburst , 60s strat sunburst and a Simon Neil cv strat in fiesta red(I don't know if this model was available in USA). They were all 2011-2014 and all of them were full size bodies and US dimensions for bridges etc. I had a callaham bridges on my 50s tele and the Simon Neil strat for a while.
What's a Simon Neil CV Strat?
 
My Sunburst strat, which is still my #1 Strat actually has an early made in China Squier CV body. I got it like geez....maybe 15 years ago and this was when they were still using Alder for the CV line. I bought it from Sweetwater because it had a nice figure and actually played it stock for a few years. (I did re-wire it) It does have the 1.69" (43mm) thick body as opposed to the US Spec.

If you go on the Squier forums some folks wax poetic about the "good old days" of the China made Squier CV's.....(you'd think that they were talking about vintage guitar hahaha). I actually think the Indonesian made CV's are better made and the stuff coming out of that factory right now are some of the best guitars ever from Squier. At least that's been my experience with my CV Jazzmaster and my CV Jazz bass.
 
What's a Simon Neil CV Strat?
He is the guitar player from a Scottish band called biffy Clyro. I think it was a European only model. It was a 60s cv with a fiesta red body and different pickups, alnico 5 under the bass strings and alnico 3 under the G, b, E. It was a pretty cool guitar but had the thinner neck like the rest of the cvs which is why I always move them on.
 
My Sunburst strat, which is still my #1 Strat actually has an early made in China Squier CV body. I got it like geez....maybe 15 years ago and this was when they were still using Alder for the CV line. I bought it from Sweetwater because it had a nice figure and actually played it stock for a few years. (I did re-wire it) It does have the 1.69" (43mm) thick body as opposed to the US Spec.

If you go on the Squier forums some folks wax poetic about the "good old days" of the China made Squier CV's.....(you'd think that they were talking about vintage guitar hahaha). I actually think the Indonesian made CV's are better made and the stuff coming out of that factory right now are some of the best guitars ever from Squier. At least that's been my experience with my CV Jazzmaster and my CV Jazz bass.

Wow I could have sworn the ones I had were the full thickness. I must have been wrong. The teles were definitely the full size dimensions because I still have my 50s and the body is identical to my old 52 reissue.
 
Wow I could have sworn the ones I had were the full thickness. I must have been wrong. The teles were definitely the full size dimensions because I still have my 50s and the body is identical to my old 52 reissue.
Yah as I said the difference is subtle. It's not like you pick it up and say "WOW this body is thin...." heh.
 
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