Can i 'relocate' pots?

[CentaurusLv]

My first questions—Not sure how to even phrase that for the purpose of a title. I scanned all 40+ pages for this but didn't see it.

1) So, i'm about to order parts for my first pedal builds. Most will be done per normal specs, but i just found one that i'd like to do in an enclosure like the original pedal version, which is in a larger case than the 125B spec'd by the pcb here.

So, instead of using PCB-mounted potentiometers, can i just 'wire' standard, non-right angle pots to the PCB so I can place them where ever I want?
• If so, would it make sense to use ONE of the PCB-mounted pots, just to have a way to attach the PCB to the case, and then two other 'free-standing,' wired pots?
• Is there anything I need to know about this? Seems straightforward, no?

For reference, this would be the INFORMANT, that i want in the larger case like the 'real' 1981 DRV.

Oh—one more question? I compiled my parts list, and all my capacitors are the Polyester Film Box type, yet in gut shots i see here, a lot of people have 'chiclet'-type caps. Is there a benefit to one versus the other? Stupid question, perhaps, but when i was a kid and had a hobby electronics kit (in the 1970s), or opened an old radio, the chiclet type seemed to be what i would see. Is there any relation to that 'old style' to 'vintage tone?' If you just laughed, don't LOL me in the response, please.... I do note that people buy NOS components, though. I don't want to get into any voodoo right now, but if, in general, it's better to get the funky candy-shaped bits instead of the boring plastic rectangles, let me know.

 

[MightySmallElectrons]

When you buy the 3n3’s make sure they will fit in their place in the board. The box caps that I have are too fat to fit in between other components.

 

[Nostradoomus]

Yes you can absolutely wire them wherever you want and use whatever caps you want. If you go with the chiclet style (and film box for that matter) be weary that the higher voltage rating they are the fatter they will be. I stick to 100v and under for film caps and have no issues, but make sure they have a 5mm lead spacing.

 

[Robert]

When you buy the 3n3’s make sure they will fit in their place in the board. The box caps that I have are too fat to fit in between other components.

These should fit without any problem: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3-3nf-0-0033uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

 

[CentaurusLv]

These should fit without any problem: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3-3nf-0-0033uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

Yes, thank you. My cart is full of those things. Awesome.

 

[CentaurusLv]

When you buy the 3n3’s make sure they will fit in their place in the board. The box caps that I have are too fat to fit in between other components.

Cool. Thanks, i'll double check those.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

So, instead of using PCB-mounted potentiometers, can i just 'wire' standard, non-right angle pots to the PCB so I can place them where ever I want?
• If so, would it make sense to use ONE of the PCB-mounted pots, just to have a way to attach the PCB to the case, and then two other 'free-standing,' wired pots?
• Is there anything I need to know about this? Seems straightforward, no?

For reference, this would be the INFORMANT, that i want in the larger case like the 'real' 1981 DRV.

Yes, you can do that and you will see numerous examples in both the Build Reports forum (people who did it well) and the Troubleshooting forum (people who may not have done it so well). Using one or more PCB-mounted pots is a good way to support the board. Using 22AWG or 24AWG solid wire from the other pots will also help support the board. Keep the pot leads as short as possible and route them away from power, input, output and other pots to minimize stray coupling. I recommend using different color wires to avoid mix-ups. Because of where it is in the circuit, the DRIVE pot is the most sensitive to stray coupling. Keep those leads very short or PC-mount that one. From a mechanical standpoint, the CUT pot provides the best board support. When we color outside the lines, we have to make compromises. Make sure the pots have dust caps so if the board does touch them, it won't short out. To help minimize wire length and facilitate assembly, insert the pot wires into the board from the solder side and solder them from the component side. If you have a spare piece of sheet metal or plastic, drill pot holes in that following your drill template and use it as an assembly jig. It's easier than soldering the pot leads with everything in the box and you can see what you're doing.

Now a question for the group: WTF does R13 do?

 

[CentaurusLv]

Yes, you can do that and you will see numerous examples in both the Build Reports forum (people who did it well) and the Troubleshooting forum (people who may not have done it so well). Using one or more PCB-mounted pots is a good way to support the board. Using 22AWG or 24AWG solid wire from the other pots will also help support the board. Keep the pot leads as short as possible and route them away from power, input, output and other pots to minimize stray coupling. I recommend using different color wires to avoid mix-ups. Because of where it is in the circuit, the DRIVE pot is the most sensitive to stray coupling. Keep those leads very short or PC-mount that one. From a mechanical standpoint, the CUT pot provides the best board support. When we color outside the lines, we have to make compromises. Make sure the pots have dust caps so if the board does touch them, it won't short out. To help minimize wire length and facilitate assembly, insert the pot wires into the board from the solder side and solder them from the component side. If you have a spare piece of sheet metal or plastic, drill pot holes in that following your drill template and use it as an assembly jig. It's easier than soldering the pot leads with everything in the box and you can see what you're doing.

Now a question for the group: WTF does R13 do?

Thank you so much, Mr. Bones.