Cobalt Drive and Cygnus-X

Cybercow

Well-known member
Just received the finished enclosures for PedalPCB's "Cobalt Drive" (Blues Driver) and Aion's "Cygnus-X" (Cornish P-2) yesterday and got 'em stuffed and tested. Woot!

The Cobalt Drive was a straight-up build with no issues and only two mods. The first mod was to use a 3-way toggle for the C14 tone cap for changing the range on the tone stack. The second mod was to use a dual-concentric pot for the gain control - instead of the specified dual-gang pot. (Just for grins and to find out what difference such a mod could make. While the tone cap mod is subtle, the dual-concentric pot for the Gain control makes for some interesting flexibility to control which gain stage will push harder. And with the dual-concentric pot, it's still easy to move the two shafts simultaneously to act like a dual-gang pot.

Blues_Driver_Cobalt_Guts_Details_03.jpg Blues_Driver_Cobalt_Guts_Details.jpg Cobalt_Blues_Driver_Front_Done_02.jpg Cobalt_Blues_Driver_Front_Done.jpg

The Aion "Cygnus-X" was an interesting build because it has a few options to consider BEFORE building. A builder could go with the Cornish P-2 or G-2 circuit build. And elect whether or not to have the buffer option. I went with the P-2 and the internal buffer switch. And an, I gotta say that buffer is absolutely transparent on its own. I haven't tried it with pedal in a chain, but I ran it thru my hybrid, solid state and tube amps and I could NOT distinguish between when the buffer was on or off. I'm guessing the buffer will really show it's quality when in a pedal chain.

Cornish_P-2_Front_Done.jpg Cornish_P-2_Gutshot.jpg

By now you may wondering, "Why is there a sticker on the enclosure if they were professionally finished? Did he forget to add the IN/OUT and DC labels?"
Well I did not forget to add the labels for the IN/OUT & DC. What I did was not pay attention to the digital proofs before they went to production. I had the "IN" & "OUT" labels reversed. DOH! 😓
So, I resorted to printing out some plastic venial stickers to cover my tracks. Bummer. Expensive lesson learned. Still, as always, the building is enjoyable.

Cobalt_P-2_Front_Print_Error.jpg

Thanks for looking. Happy building!
 
How’s the P-2 compared to a standard muff? I’m not sure what version it’s based on…maybe a mix between Ramshead and Civil War if I had to guess. Are all the extra parts worth it for the buffer? Ever tried a G2?

I have the Aion Semi-Sweet 3 “Soft Sustain 3” clone. It’s tricky to dial in. Using the 2 tone controls I mean. I was watching TPS today and also noticed very litte change in sound at the end when he was twisting all the knobs. I didn’t hear any dramatic change frequency or gain wise when he was doing this. Thought it was strange.
 
How’s the P-2 compared to a standard muff? I’m not sure what version it’s based on…maybe a mix between Ramshead and Civil War if I had to guess. Are all the extra parts worth it for the buffer? Ever tried a G2?

I have the Aion Semi-Sweet 3 “Soft Sustain 3” clone. It’s tricky to dial in. Using the 2 tone controls I mean. I was watching TPS today and also noticed very litte change in sound at the end when he was twisting all the knobs. I didn’t hear any dramatic change frequency or gain wise when he was doing this. Thought it was strange.
IMO, the P-2 is a standard BMP with, (as Aion points out), several component value differences. I've not done a comparison on the various BMP builds to determine which one the P-2 is nearest. The dirt and sustain is right where it should be. Never tried a genuine P-2. The buffer in it is genuinely transparent and it works great as a buffer for long transmission lines. So yeah, I think the extra parts for the buffer are worth it for when needed.
 
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