Super excided to get this build started, but while I wait for everything to arrive figured I would ask some pre-build questions. Since this is my first tube build is there anything I should be mindful of with this type of build, or is it pretty much like any other pedal build? Is there any advantage to running this at 12v, and if so should I increase C1 to a 400v cap? And speaking of caps, since I will only be using this on bass should I omit C6? Thanks for any input.
first bassdude build
- Thread starter mkultra69
- Start date
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
It's pretty much just like any other pedal build unless it doesn't work first try and you have to debug, then you need to be extra careful where your fingers are going.
There shouldn't be any benefit to running it at 12V over 9V, but I've had people swear 12V sounds better, so use your ears for that. Couldn't hurt to bump C1 to 400V though. I leave C6 on even for bass use because it can otherwise get a bit dark, but again, use your ears and do what sounds good to you.
There shouldn't be any benefit to running it at 12V over 9V, but I've had people swear 12V sounds better, so use your ears for that. Couldn't hurt to bump C1 to 400V though. I leave C6 on even for bass use because it can otherwise get a bit dark, but again, use your ears and do what sounds good to you.
Tassieviking
Active member
I always use a switch when there is a bright capacitor, I solder 2 wires into the capacitor holes on the PCB and bring them up to the center contacts on a DPDT switch and then I place the capacitor on the top 2 contacts on the switch.
It makes it a lot easier to change the capacitor as well if you are chasing a tone, I just solder the capacitor legs to the side of the switch lugs and never thread them through the holes of the lugs since there is not much force on the solder joints.
I prefer to have the option of having it switchable, and if someone wants to try the pedal for guitar or bass they can hear the difference.
I usually use 400V caps for C1, you will have to be very careful when you power the pedal up since there are very high voltages in this build.
It makes it a lot easier to change the capacitor as well if you are chasing a tone, I just solder the capacitor legs to the side of the switch lugs and never thread them through the holes of the lugs since there is not much force on the solder joints.
I prefer to have the option of having it switchable, and if someone wants to try the pedal for guitar or bass they can hear the difference.
I usually use 400V caps for C1, you will have to be very careful when you power the pedal up since there are very high voltages in this build.
Just wanted to say this has been a fantastic build. I ended up leaving the bright cap out and I absolutely love the sound. I just fool around in the basement so the darker tone is fine, in a band setting might get a bit muddy though so I can totally see leaving it in and adjusting as needed. Already have the tremolo and reverb on the way lol. One question I had though is I can feel the pedal getting warm, not too much but it is warming up. I figure this is normal but wanted to just double check.
Mentaltossflycoon
Well-known member
Nice work! A little heat is normal. I feel like the single tube pedals aren't as noticeable but my bassdude, nobelium, and black eye all get a bit warm to the touch. From what I understand, it's nothing to worry about. I think ventilation holes are mostly an aesthetic choice. I've seen some people omitting the vents on their enclosures with no problems.
Tassieviking
Active member
Looks good, if you do add the bright cap I would use a switch so you can turn it on or off.
I usually place bright switches between the input jack and the power jack on the top about 1/2" down from the top.
If I install a deep switch it is always between the output jack and the power jack as well, bass is usually on the right and treble on the left on the pedals and that's why I went this way.
If I do mount the bright cap on the PCB I often use SIP sockets so I can easily change the cap if I want to, just cut it to length and push any pins not needed out of the strip.
Have fun with the tremolo and reverb builds.
I usually place bright switches between the input jack and the power jack on the top about 1/2" down from the top.
If I install a deep switch it is always between the output jack and the power jack as well, bass is usually on the right and treble on the left on the pedals and that's why I went this way.
If I do mount the bright cap on the PCB I often use SIP sockets so I can easily change the cap if I want to, just cut it to length and push any pins not needed out of the strip.
Have fun with the tremolo and reverb builds.