For those who have built the Skeptical Buffer....

Robert

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Do you find the interference between the 1/4" jack lugs and top toggle switch lugs an issue?

I had to bend the lugs up slightly for an enclosed jack but had no issues with open frame jacks...

With that said, I really hate having to do these sort of "fixes" and am considering spacing the toggle switches out a bit further to avoid this in the future.

At the same time, I don't want to make changes to the control layout in the event that folks might already have drilled/printed enclosures in queue.
 
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Here is a pic of my build. I did a couple modifications so don't mind the component ugliness, lol. I didn't use the pdf drill template, I used one from keech design. But I'm not sure where the drill holes are at on the pdf drilling template. I've been using closed jacks from lumberg cuz they are small and I recently moved to these open jacks. These actually give me more space for builds like this. The plastic jacks will definitely touch the toggle switch solder pads while the open ones don't even come close. And if they do I can always rotate them. IMG_2639.jpeg
 
Nice! I'd love to see the front of that one. :D

It's just the bottom lug of the enclosed jacks that is a concern and it can be bent slightly upwards to clear the toggle lugs without any issues.

I think I'm going to go ahead and space the switches out 0.8" (instead of the current 0.65") so this isn't an issue with any type of jack.
The switches look a little better (to me) when spread out further anyway.

If anyone already has a pre-drilled / printed enclosure in queue shoot me a message so I can get a few more of the current version to accommodate.

1680994562291.png

1680994591055.png
 
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Robert said:
I don't believe so, and even with the enclosed jacks all you have to do is bend the lug up slightly (less than 45 degrees)....

I just don't like "workarounds".
Click to expand...
Since the board’s gonna get revised, any chance the polarized caps could be shifted to make room for the optional send/return jacks about where the side jacks are located on the Muzzle? (I think they’d look a bit cleaner there than down by the footswitch, which was where I was probably gonna put them when I got around to ordering one of these boards)
 
Yeah, need to buy it twice. I ordered a board, but haven't received mine yet (should be here soonish);

I have to agree that the togs look better spaced apart a wee bit more as shown in post #3.


I usually am doing stupid things with my boards and quite used to having to make work-arounds — like my Station-Wah mods forcing me to stick the in/out jacks together and put the DC jack where you'd normally have the "IN"... but that's another bodge-story. :rolleyes:
 
Robert said:
Nice! I'd love to see the front of that one. :D

It's just the bottom lug of the enclosed jacks that is a concern and it can be bent slightly upwards to clear the toggle lugs without any issues.

I think I'm going to go ahead and space the switches out 0.8" (instead of the current 0.65") so this isn't an issue with any type of jack.
The switches look a little better (to me) when spread out further anyway.

If anyone already has a pre-drilled / printed enclosure in queue shoot me a message so I can get a few more of the current version to accommodate.

View attachment 45757

View attachment 45758
Click to expand...
Here's the front pic. The other is the Buxom Boost... seriously one of the best boosts. And I agree, I think widening the space of the toggles would help. It can also be very tight with the clandestine preamp toggle placing too... but it does look nice when it's all assembled.
 

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Putting a dog leg on the Enclosed Jack's Ground is a common thing I do as I try to keep the pots closer to the top than standard PPCB position.
The further I can keep knobs from the Footswitch, the Better!
 
Robert said:
Nice! I'd love to see the front of that one. :D

It's just the bottom lug of the enclosed jacks that is a concern and it can be bent slightly upwards to clear the toggle lugs without any issues.

I think I'm going to go ahead and space the switches out 0.8" (instead of the current 0.65") so this isn't an issue with any type of jack.
The switches look a little better (to me) when spread out further anyway.

If anyone already has a pre-drilled / printed enclosure in queue shoot me a message so I can get a few more of the current version to accommodate.

View attachment 45757

View attachment 45758
Click to expand...
Well, I was thinkin' there is plenty of Real Estate around the toggles when i was doing the Mockup.
This way you can put those Nuclear switches on top:

Skeptical Buff Mockup Pedal 4.jpg
 
ThePanda said:
We can make it work! (maybe)
Click to expand...
The standard has a 12mm mounting hole so its basically Double the Mini Toggle's that we use!
I'm surprised that Love My Switches hasn't got something!!!
Here is what is available in comparison!

FESBSNntxR8.jpg
 
thesoundofjusticefx said:
Here is a pic of my build. I did a couple modifications so don't mind the component ugliness, lol. I didn't use the pdf drill template, I used one from keech design. But I'm not sure where the drill holes are at on the pdf drilling template. I've been using closed jacks from lumberg cuz they are small and I recently moved to these open jacks. These actually give me more space for builds like this. The plastic jacks will definitely touch the toggle switch solder pads while the open ones don't even come close. And if they do I can always rotate them.View attachment 45733
Click to expand...
I'm curious about this arcade smasher button. I cant find anything online that looks like this. can you tell me more about it?
 
Thanks. I designed them myself using the simple 555 timer based relay system. The arcade buttons are fun because of the look and sound. It sounds like an arcade when you’re hitting em. Then I wanted them to light up so I made a couple utility boards using as much surface mount components I can the pcb small to fit into single builds or custom multi builds. I can add them to any custom build for people and I prefer the relay bypass anyways.
 

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