Ideas for Sorcerer Distortion Mod

[byrnej]

I recently build a Sorcerer Distortion (Castledine The Wizard Clone): https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Sorcerer.pdf

The only difference in my build from the schematic is that I did not have a CV7351 or 2N1308 for Q1 and ending up using a 2n1306. Also, I subbed out R18 with a 100K resistor rather than a 470K one to increase volume--I saw this mod listed on another forum. The J201s in my build are the SMD ones soldered to a small board similar to this: https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/mmbfj201-jfet-pre-soldered/

Overall, it sounds pretty good, but I wish I could increase the gain. Right now, I keep it at full. I like this setting but I want to have a little more play in this regards. I'm a novice at electronics so I don't know where to start.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Elijah-Baley]

Maybe you can reduce R3 and maybe also R8, to push more gain before the last stage.

 

[byrnej]

Thanks for the suggestions. I messed with those two. I subbed out a jumper for R3, which helped increase the gain overall. I found a 120K resistor in R8 helped create a nicer fuller clipped sound.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

If you really want to goose the gain, put a cap in parallel with R8, R13, or both. Use 10uF or greater if you want gain that reaches down into the bass region. Use something smaller if you want a gain boost in just the mid & treble. I'd start with paralleling R13.

 

[byrnej]

If you really want to goose the gain, put a cap in parallel with R8, R13, or both. Use 10uF or greater if you want gain that reaches down into the bass region. Use something smaller if you want a gain boost in just the mid & treble. I'd start with paralleling R13.

I'm a novice at this. How would I put a cap in parallel with the resistor on the PCB? I searched for it and found diagrams and videos how to do it on a breadboard and on terminals but not on a PCB. Is there some type of jumper involved?

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

The easiest way is to piggy-back it onto the resistor on the top side of the board. Do a temporary hookup first to make sure you like the mod. Trim the capacitor leads to 12 - 18mm, then tack solder the leads to the resistor leads on the top of the board. If you use electrolytic caps, observe polarity. Three easy ways to figure out which end of the resistor is positive:
1. Look at the board artwork. Parts that go to ground have cross (aka wagonwheel) pad. The wagonwheel pas is the minus end.
2. Measure continuity from each end of the resistor to ground (power off). The end with continuity to ground is the minus end.
3. Measure voltage across the resistor with the power on. If the DMM reads a positive voltage, then the black lead is on the minus end.

Once you're sure you like the mod, unsolder the cap, trim the leads to a length that allows you to position the cap so you can close the cover and still get the soldering iron in to make the connections. Resolder the cap. You can also put the cap on the backside of the board, if it's small enough and there's room for it. Make damned sure you're connecting to the correct pads.