Kliche Mini SE No Sound, Even When Bypassed

[somethingvague]

I just finished my Kliche Mini SE build, and the LED lights up, but I get no sound, even when the pedal is bypassed.

I’ve never had a pedal be completely silent before, so I don’t even know where to start. Originally the breakout board for the switch was upside down (pictured as such), but reversing it didn’t fix the problem. Is there anywhere I can probe while the pedal is bypassed to help diagnose it? I have no idea on this kind of stuff. Thanks for any help.

 

[Nostradoomus]

Can we get a solder side pic? also a link to the jacks you used? they may be switching

 

[somethingvague]

Can we get a solder side pic? also a link to the jacks
you used? they may be switching

These are the jacks I ordered:

1/4" TS Enclosed Switched Jack - Solder Lug

Top Quality Parts for Guitar Effects Pedals and DIY Music Devices. Knobs, Pots, Switches, Kits, LEDs, Enclosures, Jacks, Wire, Resistors, Capacitors, Semiconductors

stompboxparts.com

 

[Nostradoomus]

oh yeah, those jacks don't make a ground connection with the chassis as they are enclosed plastic. You'll want open frame metal ones like these https://stompboxparts.com/jacks/1-4-ts-open-nys229/ or https://stompboxparts.com/audio-jacks/1-4-ts-enclosed-jack-panel-mount-skinny-lug/ as they have a metal sleeve.

you can probably hack a ground wire somewhere but it's better to just use the proper part

 

[somethingvague]

oh yeah, those jacks don't make a ground connection with the chassis as they are enclosed plastic. You'll want open frame metal ones like these https://stompboxparts.com/jacks/1-4-ts-open-nys229/ or https://stompboxparts.com/audio-jacks/1-4-ts-enclosed-jack-panel-mount-skinny-lug/ as they have a metal sleeve.

you can probably hack a ground wire somewhere but it's better to just use the proper part

I used them for a Valhalla Diezel VH4 clone I recently made and they worked okay. Is there something about the Klon circuit that would make them not work correctly?

 

[Nostradoomus]

it may be worth a try running a wire from the ground on the jacks to the screws holes of the enclosure and tightening them up. Can’t hurt!

 

[Nostradoomus]

And I checked your Valhalla post, it probably wouldn’t fix your issue there but it’s also really hard to see what’s going on there lol

 

[somethingvague]

And I checked your Valhalla post, it probably wouldn’t fix your issue there but it’s also really hard to see what’s going on there lol

Yeah, that one is hard to follow because I squeezed the pedal into a much smaller enclosure than the PCB was designed for and I had to run wires for the pots. But my Valhalla issue was that the pedal was really dark-sounding compared to the original. You really notice it if you have it next to the original pedal, so I’m not sure if the clone trace is correct, but I tried a fix that I found in another forum from someone else who also found the pedal too dark and it helped a ton.

 

[somethingvague]

it may be worth a try running a wire from the ground on the jacks to the screws holes of the enclosure and tightening them up. Can’t hurt!

I’ll give it a shot. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if the jacks need a connection to the enclosure, doesn’t that mean that the circuit wouldn’t work outside of the enclosure? I’ve heard of circuits being quieter inside the metal box, but not that they don’t work at all without one.

 

[Nostradoomus]

Not a stupid question, that's right. I'm just spitballin. Let's go tried and true and measure the ICs if you would be so kind

 

[somethingvague]

Not a stupid question, that's right. I'm just spitballin. Let's go tried and true and measure the ICs if you would be so kind

I can do that, but you’ll have to tell me what to measure I don’t know very much about this sort of stuff. I do have a multimeter, though. I really appreciate the help.

 

[Nostradoomus]

A multimeter is necessary lol. Set it to >9v DC, attach the black lead to ground and probe with the red lead. See this thread (I thought I was seeing double) https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/...work-in-my-kliche-mini-help.25315/post-322563

 

[somethingvague]

These are measured with the pedal powered and engaged.

IC1 (TL072)

1. 0.454
2. 0.454
3. 0.416
4. 0
8. 0.911
7. 0.469
6. 0.454
5. 0.452

IC2 (TL072)

1. 0.439
2. 0.452
3. 0.453
4. 0.162
8. 0.482
7. 0.442
6. 0.444
5. 0.453


IC100 (Charge Pump)

1. 0.898
2. 0.898
3. 0
4. 0
8. 0.898
7. 0.124
6. 0.047
5. 0.173

 

[Nostradoomus]

what do you measure if you go black to ground and red to 9v at the jack? Those are all far too low

 

[somethingvague]

what do you measure if you go black to ground and red to 9v at the jack? Those are all far too low

9 Volts. Here’s something, though. I was wondering why the input voltage to the charge pump was so low, so I was looking at the R100 resistor in the diagram. The high side voltage of that resistor is just under 9 V, but the low side is around 1, which is what I’m seeing on charge pump input. Since it’s only a 100 ohm resistor, I wouldn’t think it would have an 8 Volt drop there. Is that expected?

 

[Nostradoomus]

Are you sure it isn’t 100k?

 

[somethingvague]

Are you sure it isn’t 100k?

Yeah, measured it again and it was 100.

 

[Nostradoomus]

okay it's something after it then. You can't measure anything in circuit, you have to confirm values visually. Digikey.com has a 4 and 5 band resistance chart tool that may come in handy here.

 

[Nostradoomus]

https://www.digikey.ca/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code

 

[somethingvague]

It’s a 5-band, brown/black/black/black/brown resistor, which seems to indeed be 100 ohms. I don’t know, man, the D100 diode right before it looks like it’s getting the 9 V, and the little branch after D100 that contains the LED is getting enough. But on the low side of the resistor, the voltage is just under 1. That’s about the extent of what I can figure out without a good idea.