Kliche Overdrive build

JPK1

Member
I started this project by creating my own BOM. Then I realized 75% of the way through that I could get a parts kit from Stompboxparts.com, with the PedalPCB Kliche board, for less than my own sourced parts. So I bought the kit and ended up really impressed with the quality and how organized it was packaged. Once I got the parts I started by covering the pre-drilled enclosure with automotive wrap. This was my second one and already looked better than the first. Not for everyone but for $5 and 15 minutes time, it works for me. Next (tomorrow) I'll start with the PCB populating. The PedalPCB board is awesome by the way. Very high quality and the black color is very cool. The automotive wrap is from Amazon ($5) and the black vinyl text is from smalllettering.com ($18, not cheap).

If anyone sees something I did wrong with my attached BOM, like why it's so expensive ($77) before it was even complete, let me know. I didn't even have the foot switch, input/output jacks, or 9V jack in there there yet. And remaining caps.
 

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Looks like the shipping for that AdaFruit pot is a big factor!
and $15 to ship one TL072? I assume this is the combined shipping for other items but either:

A. There's a problem in your spreadsheet
or
B. You've realize the fallacy that build your own pedals is actually NOT cheaper than buying them

Welcome to the rank of this merry crew sailing in the doldrums of the sunk-cost fallacy...
 
Yeah if you look in the Description column there's a note that says "(All Digikey shipping added to this item)".

A: I think it's pretty much correct but I just wanted to see if other people saw something obvious that I missed. Like how to buy all this stuff from all these different places.
B: No doubt. But I didn't know that kits were cheaper than individual sourced parts. Buying commercial pre-made stomp boxes is boring as hell. Amps too. But not cheap at all. I do it for the pleasure.

Last comment hilarious.
 
Shhhhhhh! Don't say that out loud! What if my significant other hears you??!1

My bad...

"but honey, I'm selling the 'extra' ones on Reverb, so it basically balances out..."

True story though: my best friend from high school has a recording studio and is also has a side gig as the executive producer for KCMO radio, the Chiefs sports channel. I'm trading him a custom tweaked OCD for one of the hats the team and staff got for winning the super bowl. So,,, there's that...
 
You should buy resistors and caps by the hundreds and dozens and they end up being super cheap. What you’ll find is that it’s good practice (maybe?) to stick up for multiple builds, then parts are cheaper and shipping is spread out.
 
"but honey, I'm selling the 'extra' ones on Reverb, so it basically balances out..."
I have used this exact line as well lol.

And super cool on the Chiefs hat! Maybe I can use that too. "Honey, some people trade pedals for very valuable sports memorabilia, so this is really like an investment." That'll definitely work :)
 
Today I did an inventory of my kit to make sure I had everything. Also measured all resistors. The only issue was I have one extra 390n film cap for C5. Better to have two than zero. Tomorrow I can start the fun part: PCB populating and soldering. Let the fun begin. 🤓 :) Hmm why does the smiling nerd with glasses Emoti not work? That is so me.
 
Board populated and soldered. Went without a hitch.

Anybody else use a bench vise to hold their PCB's while soldering? I have all these cool gizmos for holding stuff while you solder and I prefer this one. Easy to clamp and un-clamp and the thing weighs like 25 pounds, not going anywhere. This pic doesn't show it clamping the PCB but you can put it at any angle and gently hold it. Works great.

Questions (edited):

1) Foot switch goes on bottom, does it matter if it's rotated 180 or not? In other words it works either of the two orientations that the foot switch lugs fit into the PCB? Then solder first then break the boards apart?

2) Any tricks to breaking that little PCB and main PCB out of the frame? I would hate to damage it with my gorilla methods.

PCB done.jpg
 
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As for the orientation.

If the other side of the 3PDT looks like this:

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Then attach it like this:

1676588874734.png

As long as you solder it to the correct side of the board, and the slots fit, you're golden. (i.e. the switch itself can be rotated 180)


And if you wonder if anyone could ever screw up such clear instructions.... I can answer that as well...
 
Thanks for all the good info. So to break off the main board do you just grab the outer frame with the pliers (at the break off points) and bend the outer frame up and down? That breaks the little hinge? Just concerned about damaging the main PCB since I've never done this.

Also I read somewhere that someone kept the two boards connected while they soldered in the 6 wires. Then broke the boards off after. That makes holding the two boards in place while soldering super easy. I think there's enough length in the wires to be able to bend the hinges up and down until the little board breaks off.
 
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Today I did an inventory of my kit to make sure I had everything. Also measured all resistors. The only issue was I have one extra 390n film cap for C5. Better to have two than zero. Tomorrow I can start the fun part: PCB populating and soldering. Let the fun begin. 🤓 :) Hmm why does the smiling nerd with glasses Emoti not work? That is so me.
I've got a build for a 390n cap, SnowDay OD, but cannot find any 390n film-caps — where'd you get yours?
 
HaHa, I have had that same extra 390n cap in my small inventory of caps and resistors, ever since I built my Stompbox parts kit too. Someday it will get used.
And I too had the same realization that the kit was easier and cheaper. While shopping at Stompbox parts, I added it to my cart to see if free shipping was available over $100 or so. There isn't. But I bought it anyway. No regrets.
I've spent some time breaking down the cost per each pedal build, and YES, it's not much cheaper then buying "professionally" built. But, the education is worth it. I'm at the point where buying new isn't as exciting as building.

And, this may need its own thread, but my caring and loving girlfriend, has started to voice her dislike towards my hobby/addiction. I know she is upset about other issues in our relationship, when she brings up my pedal building. One of those issues is a jealous resentment towards it. Because I can be content without her, quietly building and soldering. And most of her hobbies don't last longer then a season.
Don't worry, we talk about this stuff. Anyway, happy building.
 
Also factoring in the time it takes to research and build a pedal, don't do it because it's cheaper -- it's really not. It's a fun hobby, like knitting for others. Another point is the economy of scale, unless you plan on building a dozen pedals or more, you end up spending a lot more on redundant parts that might sit there and collect dust.
 
I just put all the components for this build into carts from Tayda and StompBoxParts and ended up at $46.28 with shipping. And that's also with buying MOQs of resistors and other components.

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Wow you're the champion. That's exactly what I was looking for when I first found this website. I should have asked this question BEFORE the build thread. Next time. (y)
 
Well it worked first power up. All be damned. I forgot to turn on the light switch that powered the 120VAC receptacle so that kind of scared me at first. Flicked the light switch and it was alive. I then made all sorts of nice noise for the neighbors. I built this to give my recently built Fender Deluxe (5E3) clone amp a kick in the pants because it was too clean for me. Man does this thing liven it up. One little debacle caused by the kit supplier: The adjustment knobs didn't fit the pot shafts. 6 mm knob holes and 6.1 mm shafts. Would you believe I had a 6.1 mm drill bit? I could not believe it. A little zip zip with a drill and they fit like a glove. The red knobs and blue wrap ended up looking better than I expected. I thought the Superman theme might work but I was a little concerned it wouldn't look so good. It ended up better than expected. Now I can keep the ugly knobs the kit supplier sent with the kit (no option for other colors, weird eh).

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