LED lights and charge pump issues... asking here as struggling

[LukeFRC]

So asking here as it's full of people with knowledge.... and this is a problem I had 3 years ago and sold the pedal... then bought it back....

• I have a pedal board.
• It sounds good.
• Power comes from a Cioks DC7 - with isolated supplies, included grounds isolated from one another. The DC7 plugs into a 3 pin plug giving it standard mains power.
• Second from last in my chain is a HX stomp. Powered from two outputs on the DC7
• The Jack out of that pedal can do a balanced signal on a TRS, but I use a TS which goes to...
• The input of a JHS colourbox v2. It has input and output transformers and a preamp, I presume using a charge pump to give I am using the XLR out on it to...
• The Allen and Heath PA. The stage bits and speakers plugged onto the same mains sockets as the DC7...

And it all sounds grand...

And then the main lights at church got turned on, lots of LED spot light....

and


BZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Somehow the lights, or the EMI muck from them makes a buzz from the pedals than then goes into the PA...

So turning off the Colourbox killed the buzz - which I think makes it into a passive DI box only using one transformer.

So using a HX stomp into the PA is fine with the lights on
And using a colourbox into the PA is fine with the lights on
Using both is fine
Until the lights go on?!

 

[LukeFRC]

So thoughts...

Additional DI with ground lift after the colourbox to isolate from PA
Something to isolate the hx stomp from the colourbox....

Is it the power supplies in both combining, how does the stomp ground?

 

[eh là bas ma]

If i understand correctly, there's a bad interaction between the pedalboard and the electric environment.

I would try to connect the DC7 power supply to an other wall outlet, maybe use an extension cord to be able to access a distant electric outlet ?

If the electrical environment is noisy, i 'd have a look at the electric panel where we can access the fusebox, see if i can find an outlet connected to a different fuse.

 

[jwin615]

If you have a spare xlr, desolder the ground on the end that would connect to your pedalboard and try that. Basically a permanent ground lift but you don't need it as the shield should be grounded at the PA.
First I would try the color box by itself and make sureit's not something inter al to the circuit that's suspectable to the emf from cheap/crappy LED lighting.
One day these designers will wise up and start driving indoor LED lighting with external DC supplies. Not only quieter but safer, cooler, more efficient and more reliable if done right.

Edit to add: you can drive led lighting from a $50 RV inverter and get 10x quieter operation. It's just sad that they design facilities with intent to light them with LEDs and still use mains power.

 

[LukeFRC]

Unfortunately rewiring the building isn’t in scope (but isn’t a bad idea!)

 

[Erik S]

Have you considered battery power?

I’ve seen folks do all kinds of fancy things to get 9v from rechargeable battery sources, but I wonder about just running your existing rig off an inverter.

Milwaukee M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion 175-Watt Powered Compact Inverter for M18 Batteries (Tool-Only) 2846-20 - The Home Depot

Provide an essential upgrade to your car with the addition of this affordable Milwaukee M LithiumIon Powered Compact Inverter for M.

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Oh crap, just realized. UK = 240v mains. Do they make 240v inverters??