MobyOctopad
Active member
Maybe look into something like the 2N3705s, gain between 50-150 hfe according to this Mouser datasheet
I picked up a small batch of these from one of the forum's esteemed Ukrainian eBay sellers but stashed them because I thought they'd be difficult to use on a PCB. Was it too much of an issue dealing with their leads?I forget which suffix is the lowest gain of the Soviet KT315 (I believe КТ315И, but I'll double check when I'm home) but it's an awesome and cheap low hfe transistor. Weird pins but easy enough to finagle. I have a big ol' section of my drawer bins for low Hfe SI and I'll check to see if any I have haven't already been mentioned here.
I forget which suffix is the lowest gain of the Soviet KT315 (I believe КТ315И, but I'll double check when I'm home) but it's an awesome and cheap low hfe transistor. Weird pins but easy enough to finagle. I have a big ol' section of my drawer bins for low Hfe SI and I'll check to see if any I have haven't already been mentioned here.
I picked up a small batch of these from one of the forum's esteemed Ukrainian eBay sellers but stashed them because I thought they'd be difficult to use on a PCB. Was it too much of an issue dealing with their leads?
The datasheets can provide some rough guidance on which parts might work well in a given pedal circuit. Ultimately, the builder will need to audition parts.
I LOVE using low-HFE transistors in a Big Muff. It gets the thick wall of doom sound I'm a sucker for as well as actually usable low gain tones. Try giving it only 5V.Great timing - I got the itch to try some lower (than typical) gain transistors for my Big Muff builds.
My main one is a GGG-tuned BMP (VRH variant), which was running 2N5089s. Just a ridiculous 'thick wall of lightning' fuzz.
I binge-bought some BC109Bs (Smallbear) and BC550Bs (Tayda); the former measured between 200 and 350-ish, while the latter were almost ALL 400-450. I tried the 200 hfe in my BMP and I'm hooked. It can still get that big fuzz sound with the sustain maxed, but everything lower is more articulate.
I have some BC549As and BC550As en route, and will be sorting those out ASAP.
That said, if I were to play with a big muff to modify it's sound, instead of using low gain transistors to modify the gain staging of the circuit, I would modify the resistors values around the transistors to reduce each stage gain, but keeping the DC bias the same.Take into consideration that the Bipolar transistor hFE (current gain) it's not the actual gain of the amplification stage in the circuit. That will be determined by the topology and the feedback used. Is that feedback the one that makes the huge variations in hFE usable in real world products.
For example, the first stage of a big muff pi is a common emitter and has 2 FB resistors. One is 470K between base and collector, and the other is 100ohm, between emitter and ground.
In that stage, if you place a BJT with hFE=100, the voltage gain of the stage will be about -4.66 (13,37dB). But if you place a BJT with hFE=400, the voltage gain of the stage is now -6 (15,5dB).
So a transistor with 400% more AC current gain, will only result in a 29% AC voltage gain increase on the circuit.
(you can play with values here, if want to check http://guitarscience.net/calcs/cecbemf.htm)
So that's why low gain bipolar transistors are not common. When adding feedback to get consistent results (and also to make it's response a bit more lineal), you actually get a lot less gain in the circuit.
I've got to retract one recommendation here:In my BJTaddictioncollecting almost specifically for the Super-Fuzz, these are ones that measure around 100 and below on my T7 and have been used in my Super-Fuzz builds:
Occasionally I'll get lucky with NOS 2N3903s, but the ones I have still hover over 100.
part num type mat min mostly max MPS6548 NPN Si 30 50 60 A5T2243 NPN Si 30 50 70 2N2369A NPN Si 30 90 90 MPS3394 NPN Si 60 70 90 MPS4274 NPN Si 70 90 MPS6512 NPN Si 30 50-80 90 2N2369A NPN Si 60 90 100 MPS5131 NPN Si 20 100
If you want some unsolicited combinations I've tried and a one-word comment
Q1—Q3 should have the highest current gain (anywhere from 140-200 is approximately OE); some builds suggest these be in descending order of gain.
Q4 & Q5 are sort of the """secret""" to this pedal's tone, and are typically matched as closely as possible (anywhere from 60-140). However, the bias trimmer is meant for you to tune them to get the desired effect (more on that later).
Q6 should be as low as possible, around 50 being typical for original units. Some older silicon can get down this low (e.g. MPS3394, 5AT2243) but you can piggyback if necessary/desired.
Your project schematic might be drawn differently, so your mileage may vary.
Thanks for the heads up! Ha, I also checked out the KT315 @finebyfine and @MobyOctopad mentioned... yeesh! Thing looks like a thumb piano!The MPS6548 is a VHF/UHF specialty application type and has a weird pinout of B E C—yes, the emitter pin is in the middle. So, don't buy it unless you want to bend pins for funsies.
Right on! Yeah... I was thinking about AES because they have a couple pots that Tayda was recently out of, and a couple other specialty items. The basic transistors didn't seem too pricey, other than NOS stuff... I'll take another look around, though - thanks for the advice. Gonna be a minute till I can make any moves anyways.EG has 2N3903s on sale. Get 'em before the sale expires or they run out.
Antique Electronic Supply is very pricey IMO. Same goes for SB. Gotta shop around. There are deals to be found on eBay, but the usual caveats apply.