Mercurial Boost

Alan W

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
First off, another TL;DR post, which I apologize for ahead of time. Second issue is that its the second build report where I'm crazy happy with a pedal. I promise to write a more critical review soon.

I only became aware of this pedal after reading about it on this forum, (thank you, @peccary), but became instantly interested in it, since my favorite truly clean boost, the Transcendence, has no tone controls—which is one of the reasons that it is so damn transparent. Since all I really want in a tone control is some fairly mild midrange fattening or thinning out, if the Mercurial was clean enough, this seemed like the perfect companion. Once I got it working properly, it does just that. BUT— it also has a lovely sound of it's own, and also has an immediacy (in playing feel, very amp-like) that strongly reminds me of the Chop Shop I just finished last week.

I started out with it as a stock build, but with the addition of a 100nF bypass cap on each op amp, at pins 1 and 8. (See bottom of board photo below.) Very natural break-up, and a ton of fun to play. Most of the dB knob play for me is within 30 degrees to either side of noon (flat); somewhere around 1:30 the output tends to be slightly overloaded, but it is a very even harmonic type of thickening. But I did have fun, especially with my baritone, really pumping the lower frequencies; getting a bit of an old Ampeg thud out of it, that I could see being useful. I will eventually plug a bass or two through it.

Even set completely flat and with unity gain, I get a bit of distortion compared to the Transcendence, but certainly not compared to the Chop Shop, the Quantum Dynamic, my Origin Revival Custom, etc—its a clean sound, as far as pedals go. But I wanted it cleaner. My two main guitars right now both have Wilde Alnico Microcoils in them; they are very "hi-fi" pickups that have changed my playing style. So, after querying about running it at 18v, I played it last night, and it definitely did what typically happens—more headroom, less texture to the grain—but anytime I'd switch to the Transcendence, the upper overtones would just re-appear. My next try was to replace the 072s with some OPA2134s, which are my favorite op amps that are still (relatively) affordable. I think the change to the 2134s made a bigger difference than the 9 to 18 volt bump. More high end opened—almost getting to the Transcendence level. (Which also uses a 2134...)

[EDIT: Sat night! When I played through the Mercurial this evening, it started making a low level, higher pitch whine, so I shut it off. I’m thinking that the “bypass caps” that I incorrectly placed were more the cause than the 18v, but feel it important to urge caution until I see what the problem is.]

But, if my original conception was pairing the Mercurial with the Transcendence, it's with the Chop Shop that the magic really happens! Just unbelievable great, possibly the best slightly brown (in a late 50's big jazz box way) (and this sound is one of my most favorites!) sounds and feels that I've played. It's almost like some EL84s were dropped in where the 6L6es are in my amp. So—now my last thing to decide is what voltage to run the Mercurial at. If the (slight) difference is what I expect it to be, then I want to put a switch in to be able to easily choose, or possibly just add in a sag knob like the Chop Shop. As a matter of fact, I'm contemplating a dual build, with a dual gang sag that will do both—so as I add sag to the Chop Shop, the voltage on the Mercurial will automatically drop too.

BUILD REPORT:

I'll think of this as the first pedal in my "large resistor period." I placed a large end of year Mouser order, mainly getting the caps (Elnas and Nichicon Fine Golds or above) and resistors (Dale RN55s is my standard). Much to my surprise, I must've done a bad search in Mouser, and ordered all RN60 resistors. Even though they're rated at 1/8 and 1/4 watt, they look like 1/2 watt or more! I was pretty bummed at first; it was a big order. In any case, they do fit in with a bit of creativity.

Since the last bunch of pedals I've made worked right away, I've gotten a bit cavalier about using a small test rig, and just plugged it in. HUGE amount of gain, just a crazy amount! Something must be wrong. It was very easy to find, I had switched two resistors, and had a 1M (in what I am incorrectly calling the feedback loop of the op amp that sets gain) where a 10K should be—so that was a quick fix.

The mock up is what I think is very close to the final design. I was planning on a Ferrari yellow pedal, but after playing it , it needed a more vintage look; so I'm going for more of a saddle tan color. (That Tayra textured copper would look great!).

Oh!—I do like the inverted layout on this, but, following the template, I think everything is too close to the pedal top. I had to really shoehorn the barrel jack in, since there's a central pot. I like this pedal enough that I will just redrill another box for it; the rendering below has the lowered location, which looks much better to me.

IMG_0865.jpeg IMG_0866.jpeg IMG_0870.jpeg IMG_0871.jpeg Mercurial graphic mock up.jpg
 
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I like everything about this. What does the bypass cap on the opamp do?

+1 on the Mercurial/ Chop Shop combo. I sometimes like to add a touch of Chickenhead as well though it starts to get noisy.
You’ll notice that many pedals will have a 100nF cap parallel with the main electrolytic supply cap. This basically acts as a way of providing faster high frequency filtering. (@Chuck D. Bones will hopefully really explain it!) but it’s even better moving the bypass cap as close to the device as possible, in terms of effectiveness, so putting it right at the chip is ideal. In all honesty, I have no idea how important this is for guitar pedal purposes, but it’s the type of thing that in a decent stereo you can discern pretty easily, and I spend a lot more time (or used to, darn this site!) looking at audio circuitry, so I tend to carry over habits.

EDIT: see posts 8 and 10 below!
 
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I’m excited even more now! My parts are due to arrive on Monday. I plan to box it with an Awful Waffle. I’ll decide if I want an order switcher after I test them together. Your description of what you were looking for in an EQ are identical to my own. Appreciate the write up and taking the time.
 
You’ll notice that many pedals will have a 100nF cap parallel with the main electrolytic supply cap. This basically acts as a way of providing faster high frequency filtering. (@Chuck D. Bones will hopefully really explain it!) but it’s even better moving the bypass cap as close to the device as possible, in terms of effectiveness, so putting it right at the chip is ideal. In all honesty, I have no idea how important this is for guitar pedal purposes, but it’s the type of thing that in a decent stereo you can discern pretty easily, and I spend a lot more time (or used to, darn this site!) looking at audio circuitry, so I tend to carry over habits.
@Alan W, great write up and build! I'm still struggling a bit understanding the relationship between the 12db and the Gain knob.
The Level knob is boost or cut correct?
 
I appreciate the detailed write up! I think those resistors look pretty cool alternating like that. Is there a reason the caps you added go from pin 1-8? Wouldn’t 4-8 be the power rails and pin 1 be the first op amp output?
 
@Alan W, great write up and build! I'm still struggling a bit understanding the relationship between the 12db and the Gain knob.
The Level knob is boost or cut correct?
I decided to label it “Level” to make it clearer (to me) how it works. At noon, it is flat, and as it moves to the right, there is a boost centered at whatever frequency you have the top knob at; to the left, it’s a cut. Maximum is 12db either way, which is quite a bit. What I don’t know is the Q, (basically how narrow or wide the boost or cut acts). I’m pretty sure it’s a first order filter, which is 6db per octave. So, if you had it set at 440, and a full boost of 12 db, looking at the amplitude v freq. curve, at 220 and 880 you’d be boosting 6 db less than that, and by 110 and 1760 you’d be flat again. As I mentioned in the review, I’m finding small boosts and cuts are all I’m wanting, as a more subtle tone shaping.

Besides being a great sounding boost on its own, what really impresses me about the way it works is how to my ears it leaves the grain structure of other boosts fairly unchanged, less than the built in tone stacks usually do.

EDIT: just realized I didn’t say anything about the gain—it‘s a gain control for the pedal output, so it really has no specific interaction with the dB (or Level, per my labeling) knob. You can see this in the schematic; the op amp that is at the very end of the circuit is the output.
 
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I appreciate the detailed write up! I think those resistors look pretty cool alternating like that. Is there a reason the caps you added go from pin 1-8? Wouldn’t 4-8 be the power rails and pin 1 be the first op amp output?
YES! You are totally correct! That’s the “standard” dual op amp pin out, and I really have no idea why I brain farted and went from 1 instead of 4. So, those caps are NOT acting as power supply bypasses, they are connecting the positive rail to the first op amp output. Unfortunately, that’s the full extent of my understanding what is happening—I don’t know what connecting them via a 100 nF cap functionally does to the circuit.

Thank you for catching that; part of me feels like I have to correct it (really, just desoldering one of the leads and temporarily shielding it, which I will do when I take it apart to finish the box); but an even bigger part of me is like, “don’t touch it, it sounds great!“ (but maybe it could sound even better if I followed the circuit and pulled those caps.)
 
Chuck’s posts in this thread may be interesting to you regarding the 12 dB knob and Q. He posted a freq response graph:

Thread 'Catalinbread varioboost'
https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/catalinbread-varioboost.6833/
Yes, looking at Chuck‘s curves, they‘re all 6db per octave. Visually, you get the sense that as you boost (or cut) more, the curve is steeper, but it does stay at that 6db per octave. I have no idea if psycho-acoustically this is also how we perceive the equalization or not.
 
You’ll notice that many pedals will have a 100nF cap parallel with the main electrolytic supply cap. This basically acts as a way of providing faster high frequency filtering. (@Chuck D. Bones will hopefully really explain it!) but it’s even better moving the bypass cap as close to the device as possible, in terms of effectiveness, so putting it right at the chip is ideal. In all honesty, I have no idea how important this is for guitar pedal purposes, but it’s the type of thing that in a decent stereo you can discern pretty easily, and I spend a lot more time (or used to, darn this site!) looking at audio circuitry, so I tend to carry over habits.

Do/did you ever spend any time over at diyAudio? Before I got back into guitar a few years ago, that was my primary (non-family, non-work) timesink. Just as it's now hard for me to buy commercial pedals and amps (because I prefer DIY), for even longer it's been really hard for me to buy commercial hifi-type stuff. Most of the speakers, amps and DACs in our house were made by yours truly!

The rule of thumb I use for local small-value power supply decoupling caps is this: small value caps look like a short to high frequencies. Just as we use caps in the audio path to form frequency filters for tone shaping, we also use them to "shape" the power supply. The ideal shape for a power supply is a straight line, i.e., pure DC. But the power supply lines (i.e. PCB traces) can pick up noise from many sources: EMI/EMF from your home, noise from other components in the circuit, return currents through other traces, etc etc. Even the power supply (battery or pedal PSU) is unlikely to be completely noise free. So putting a small cap from PSU pin to ground is an easy way to filter out any high frequency noise on your DC supply. The goal in putting it as close to the opamp as possible is to offset noise introduced from the circuit itself.
 
Do/did you ever spend any time over at diyAudio? Before I got back into guitar a few years ago, that was my primary (non-family, non-work) timesink. Just as it's now hard for me to buy commercial pedals and amps (because I prefer DIY), for even longer it's been really hard for me to buy commercial hifi-type stuff. Most of the speakers, amps and DACs in our house were made by yours truly!

The rule of thumb I use for local small-value power supply decoupling caps is this: small value caps look like a short to high frequencies. Just as we use caps in the audio path to form frequency filters for tone shaping, we also use them to "shape" the power supply. The ideal shape for a power supply is a straight line, i.e., pure DC. But the power supply lines (i.e. PCB traces) can pick up noise from many sources: EMI/EMF from your home, noise from other components in the circuit, return currents through other traces, etc etc. Even the power supply (battery or pedal PSU) is unlikely to be completely noise free. So putting a small cap from PSU pin to ground is an easy way to filter out any high frequency noise on your DC supply. The goal in putting it as close to the opamp as possible is to offset noise introduced from the circuit itself.
Yes, at this point my entire stereo (not including turntable or cartridge, but all cabling, etc.) is DIY, and DIYaudio absolutely informed my construction over the past 15 years or so. I keep planning on starting a thread introducing the notion of DIY audio gear to forum members. My sense is that almost everyone has drifted into this (as a hobby) after discovering how much they enjoy soldering, etc., and there’s really a giant world out there!

Great explanation about the purpose of localized bypass caps. For almost all of my audio stuff, the power supplies are far more complicated (and expensive) than the active parts of the circuits.
 
Sat night! When I played through the Mercurial this evening, it started making a low level, higher pitch whine, so I shut it off. I’m thinking that the “bypass caps” that I incorrectly placed were more the cause than the 18v, but feel it important to urge caution until I see what the problem is. Hopefully tomorrow morning…
 
Okay, no sight or smell of anything amiss when opened. I did run it into a scope (with no input) and got a fairly clean 1750~ Hz surprisingly perfect (since it seemed to warble slightly by ear last night) sine wave, about 24 v peak to peak, feeding the pedal 12 v on my bench. When I disconnected the 2 caps from their incorrect positions, it is quiet. I initially put in 072s, and when it seemed okay, put the 2134s back in. I’m glad they don’t seem to be destroyed. I did toss the two 100nF caps, and put new ones in at 4&8 this time…

Just plugged it in at 18v, but unboxed, and it is quiet, beyond some weak radio broadcasts it’s picking up, and with a quick strum, sounds right. I will leave it powered up at 18 v for a day, just to be completely secure in saying it runs fine at 18v (will post again on Monday).

What‘s weird to me is that it was quiet the first two sessions I had with it. I’m not surprised at the capacitor oscillation considering how I initially hooked them up, just surprised that it was not audible until my third go with the pedal. I’m going to assume that it will sound just as glorious—will test that later this afternoon.
 
18 volts seems safe, I left it running with a low level signal for 24 hours, and just played through it for a couple of hours. I do want to rig a switch for 9 and 18 volts. It does have a nice, very reactive sizzle at 9volts that smooths out quite a bit at 18. Both are lovely.

Also played my P90 guitar through it for the first time this afternoon. Really rich, jazzy smooth, but with a sense of smoldering—pretty much what I expected—but I also ended up re-bonding with what was my #1 until I assembled a Baritone not quite 3 years ago; and has been in #3 since I assembled a Strat not much longer after that. I’ve been on a clean kick, for a few years now, and it may just be breaking due to the Mercurial / Chop Shop combo.
 
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