Narcissus OD volume issue

Eberto

New member
First DIY project, Narcissus overdrive. I have double checked my joints, and cross matched all of the resistors and caps with the BOM, and I can’t figure out where my problem is. When the pedal is engaged, the volume drops nearly 100%, even with the volume pot turned up. I can hear the signal coming through, and the gain and tone pots are working properly.

Please help point me in the right direction. Thank you 🙏
 

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Did you use BS170's? And where did you get them?

Edit: It would also help if you could take a picture of the back of the board underneath the pots. Just gently lift the pots up out of the way, you can bend them back after. I'm definitely seeing some questionable solder joints on some components.
This is a great thread to read through if you're just starting out.
 
Last edited:
First DIY project, Narcissus overdrive. I have double checked my joints, and cross matched all of the resistors and caps with the BOM, and I can’t figure out where my problem is. When the pedal is engaged, the volume drops nearly 100%, even with the volume pot turned up. I can hear the signal coming through, and the gain and tone pots are working properly.

Please help point me in the right direction. Thank you 🙏
You can try to detect where the circuit has an issue using an audio probe. (100n cap -> wire to output jack hot lug). Get the schematic and start at the end of the schematic. Touch the component that's near to end to see if you get a signal. HTH
 
I figured it out! And then promptly screwed if up again. I must have had an issue on the 3PDT, because I desoldered it, rewired it, and now I have beautiful overdriven tones… unfortunately I apparently fried a lug because now I have no bypass. Guess I’m going to snag another switch and hope I don’t screw it up.

Thank you for your time!
 
I figured it out! And then promptly screwed if up again. I must have had an issue on the 3PDT, because I desoldered it, rewired it, and now I have beautiful overdriven tones… unfortunately I apparently fried a lug because now I have no bypass. Guess I’m going to snag another switch and hope I don’t screw it up.

Thank you for your time!
Soldering the 3pdt goes better with solid core wire (or a breakout board) in my experience. I also just frigging hate stranded wire in general, but you do you if stranded doesn’t make you want scream.

It helps to make sure your iron is hot enough to heat the lug and wire up to working temp within a couple of seconds. Those switches are deceptively susceptible to heat damage if you dwell too long. I get twitchy at 3 seconds.

Helps as well to do a lug, take a break (count to 10). Do a lug, take a break. It lets your iron recover heat a bit and lets the switch cool a bit.
 
I really considered buying a breakout board for it after the fact, but I figured I could handle just wiring it again. It’s stranded wire, and you’re absolutely right, it’s awful. I’m guessing I either just put too much heat on that lug, or I managed to loosen it from the epoxy somehow, who knows. I’ll chalk it up to a learning experience.
 
I really considered buying a breakout board for it after the fact, but I figured I could handle just wiring it again. It’s stranded wire, and you’re absolutely right, it’s awful. I’m guessing I either just put too much heat on that lug, or I managed to loosen it from the epoxy somehow, who knows. I’ll chalk it up to a learning experience.
You’ll be fine without a breakout board. Just take ‘er easy - good luck!
 
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