Op Amps and Power

3pdt wiring.jpg
Like this

I keep forgetting yer new you pick stuff up pretty quickly

Anyway so 3PDT lug 4 continuity with SW and SW should also have continuity with LED K

Lug 5 to ground

And with effect on lugs 4 and 5 should have continuity
 
Mcknib said:
View attachment 14246
Like this

I keep forgetting yer new you pick stuff up pretty quickly

Anyway so 3PDT lug 4 continuity with SW and SW should also have continuity with LED K

Lug 5 to ground

And with effect on lugs 4 and 5 should have continuity
Click to expand...
LUG 4 has continuity with SW on the PCB breakout board and on the main PCB itself.
SW on PCB breakout (which is on top of footswitch) does NOT have continuity to the K PAD of the LED. (Or the A pad of it). In either clicked position.
 
SW on the main pcb should have continuity with LED K pad

Reflow your SW on the breakout board

We know you get power to the LED when you switch to effect you should have continuity LED K to SW then to breakout SW and lug 4 which connects to 5

Check your ground side wiring isn't touching anything and your LED legs aren't touching any bare metal or each other
 
Last edited:
You want continuity like this in effects mode when checking continuity don't do it on the wire jumper ends touch solder pads and 3PDT lugs, do 3PDT lugs 4 and 5 have continuity in effects mode?

Basically when in effects mode all of those connections from LED K pad through to lug 5 should connect to ground you've got a trace from main board K pad to SW then a jumper SW to breakout SW to lug 4 to 5 to ground turning the LED on then when switched to bypass it breaks the ground connection and turns the LED off

It's simply a process of elimination far better than randomly removing things, you know SW breakout connects to lug 4 and main SW, no connection SW to LED K so check nothings causing a short touching bare metal etc and reflow solder joints, check lugs 4 and 5 connect and check 5 connects to ground

20210730_014728_copy_405x510.jpg
 
Last edited:
Reading now, had to leave for a bit. I get no beep from SW on PCB to K of LED.
Since this is not beeping, do I need to do a direct jumper from K pad to SW?
Or can I jumper from pcb breakout SW direct to K of LED?

"do 3PDT lugs 4 and 5 have continuity in effects mode?" YES, they do. I don't know when I am in effects mode, but in one instance 4 and 5 do not beep, then when i click, they do beep. I now know that when 4 and 5 beep I am in "effects" mode.
LUG 5 beeps to ground.

DEFINITELY seems the issue is the K of LED not beeping to SW on PCB. Please confirm if OK to jumper those?
 
Last edited:
Mcknib said:
Doesn't matter it connects the same

If you continuity check the SW pad on the main pcb it should beep with LED K pad and 3PDT lug 4, 3PDT lug 5 to ground and in effects mode 4 and 5 should have continuity
Click to expand...
This makes ALL the sense now, ha.
SW on PCB to LED K, no beep.
3PDT lug 4 to SW pad on PCB, BEEP.
3PDT lug 5 to ground, BEEP. (in both modes)
In effects mode, 4 and 5 BEEP. When not in effects mode, 4 and 5 no beep.

For sure it is SW PAD on PCB to LED K no beep! Amazing way to deduce this, just not sure how to fix that.
 
Hold a piece of wire on the connections see if it lights up if it does install the jumper if you've already tried reflowing those pads

I'm assuming all ppcb boards connect like that I checked on a conqueror supreme board all 3 LED K pads connected to their SW pads
 
Last edited:
burger-patty-and-bacon said:
this will be a very tricky feat with liam neeson level skills.. attempting this now.
Click to expand...
No swearing now, just whack a jumper on if your LM skills are lacking I've got wee clippy wires so no skills required

Remember an LEDs a diode so don't hold your iron on it or it's pad for more than 4ish seconds
 
I made a CANDY CANE hook end out of a SMALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL piece of bare wire, SOMEHOW used tweezers and my stew mac tools, SOMEHOW got it in there, somehow soldered it. Keep in mind, I have this PCB and switch DIRECTLY on top of the PCB. This is not an easy access. That was like MICRO SURGERY right there. And guess what!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Attachments

  • jeeezus.jpg
    jeeezus.jpg
    188.6 KB · Views: 5
yet ANOTHER pedal fixed by the WIZARDS on this forum. A M A Z I N G !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

just wow wow wow you guys are GOOOOOOOOOOOOD
 
burger-patty-and-bacon said:
I made a CANDY CANE hook end out of a SMALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL piece of bare wire, SOMEHOW used tweezers and my stew mac tools, SOMEHOW got it in there, somehow soldered it. Keep in mind, I have this PCB and switch DIRECTLY on top of the PCB. This is not an easy access. That was like MICRO SURGERY right there. And guess what!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Jaysus hope you've got yer aviators on that's bright as.......well done to you

You actually had the circuit working first time just no LED indication and for starting out I'd say that's a pretty good record so far

As you go on and learn this stuff you'll realise it's fairly simple no special wizard powers needed
 
Last edited:
Mcknib said:
Jaysus hope you've got yer aviators on that's bright as.......well done to you

You actually had the circuit working first time just no LED indication and for starting out I'd say that's a pretty good record so far

As you go on and learn this stuff you'll realise it's fairly simple no special wizard powers needed
Click to expand...
I guess the question is why was the PCB itself not beeping/continuity from SW to LED K... Very interesting.

Thanks again for the amazing help, sir.

Because of the forum and the help provided, I will buy all of my PCB's from this site exclusively. On that note, USPS delivered board #3 to me yesterday I'm just waiting on Tayda for the guts.

Next pedal is the Greengage (Plumes clone).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top