Other FV-1 programs that work with the HAARP/Arpanoid PCB

[p_wats]

It occurs to me that I build my HAARP/Arpanoid years ago and it has done nothing but sat velcroed to my wall. I feel like there's some FV-1 potential to unlock there and I'm curious if there are other eeprom programs that would work with the same control set (I've tried to the internal FV-1 programs).

Anyone know of any that would work with the same controls as the HAARP board or is it a silly rabbit hole?

 

[Feral Feline]

The Haarp is one of PedalPCB's several unique FV-1 projects.


From my PPCB FV-1 notes, hopefully my table pastes into the post without getting mangled... note that far right column:

FV-1 X 8 — ARACHNID	FV-1 X 3 — PYTHAGORAS	FV-1 UNIQUE
MODULE 8	UNISON DOUBLE-TRACKER	HYDRA-lay
OCTAGON EEPROM	BUGG FX DAYDREAM EEPROM Kaleidoscope	DEFLECTOR ReVErB NO CRYSTAL !
SPATIALIST REVERB EEPROM	THREEVERB EEPROM	DMD-2 Digi Mod Delay
SPILLWAY VIBRATO [coming soon]	D3LAY combine w/daydream	LEPRECHAUN (rainbow machine) NO CRYSTAL!
	RADIUM SPRINGS w/3verb	VHS
		HAARP
8 & Octa nested, spatialist one side…	reverbs x 2; delays x 2; unison w/ pin-13 mod	ORGAN DONOR
		BINAURA STEREO
CLOCK MODULE ext trimmer	CLOCK MODULE

Each of those 8 FV-1 Unique circuits is indeed unique and has a layout that reflects that layout's singularity of purpose.
Have a gander at each of the build docs for the projects in the right-side column.


If you wanted to use the Haarp for something else, you would need to use the same set of controls (more or less), and programme the EEPROM yourself using Spin-cad and develop effects that used the same architecture as the Haarp.

Kind of like when Chuck D Bones builds a different circuit on a PCB that was meant for something completely different (there was even a contest held with that in mind); you might need to omit parts, jumper over components, add a small piece of perf/vero with some offboard wiring... At this point, it makes more sense for you to lay out your own PCB that nails your intended purpose. Maybe piecemealing something together on the Haarp-PCB would be preferable and make sense IF your circuit already closely resembles the Haarp.



The aforementioned info comes with a qualifier — I'm not qualified to comment. I've never programmed an EEPROM for FV-1, likely never will; I'm not a certified EE, I'm not an uncertified EE.
I'm just a guy that builds pedals that don't work, and yet keeps trying...

 

[p_wats]

Thanks for the wealth of info, @Feral Feline!

I did take a look at a few of the build docs. I should also have made it clear that this is a fully finished, boxed up pedal I'm just not using, not something I'm in the middle of building. Seems unfortunate to have a precious FV-1 chip languishing inside, but then again, I could always just try using it more.

Mostly curious if any of the FV-1 wizards already knew of a program that could be a drop in replacement (whether from PedalPCB or any of the other repos out there).

Could be an interesting challenge to roll my own, but let's be honest--when is that going to happen? Ha

 

[Robert]

Pretty much any mono program that uses the Left channel will "work" with the exception of the Organ Donor, Deflector, and VHS...

The catch is the "Direction" switch... It's not connected to the FV-1 switch (program select) pins, instead it is connected to one of the pot inputs and behaves as a 3-step potentiometer. (0%, 50%, 100%)

So basically, if you can live with Parameter 3 being quantized to 3 values rather than a variable pot it'll work.


With that said, you could replace the toggle switch with a potentiometer (and jumper R20 / R21) and you'd essentially have an Arachnid with separate Wet / Dry controls instead of Mix / Volume controls.


There is very little difference between the Arachnid, Pythagoras, and HAARP PCBs aside from the control set.

 

[p_wats]

Pretty much any mono program that uses the Left channel will "work" with the exception of the Organ Donor, Deflector, and VHS...

The catch is the "Direction" switch... It's not connected to the FV-1 switch (program select) pins, instead it is connected to one of the pot inputs and behaves as a 3-step potentiometer. (0%, 50%, 100%)

So basically, if you can live with Parameter 3 being quantized to 3 values rather than a variable pot it'll work.


With that said, you could replace the toggle switch with a potentiometer (and jumper R20 / R21) and you'd essentially have an Arachnid with separate Wet / Dry controls instead of Mix / Volume controls.


There is very little difference between the Arachnid, Pythagoras, and HAARP PCBs aside from the control set.

Thanks! That's inspiring. Maybe I'll just try one of my other million eeproms in it and see if anything sticks out.

I still have a few un-built/unfinished FV-1 boards, but I've still got anxiety from having killed so many chips a few years back (still never figured out why---new house in a new city now, so maybe a fresh start will help)

 

[Feral Feline]

There you go, p_wats!

Direct intel from the Grand PooBah FV-1 Wizard hisself!

Thank you Robert, for the solid info, with which I shall make another dodgy-bodgy build that may or may not work, a 1%/99% for me (50/50 or better for others).