Parts sourcing on Amazon

bluedmc777

Active member
Just curious if parts on Amazon are considered reliable and what products some of you might purchase off there. I don’t like part sourcing individual parts because something I always need is out of stock. For example box capacitors and diodes. Any good? By the way If this post is against these rules please delete.

1N34A

Thinline jacks
 
Just curious if parts on Amazon are considered reliable and what products some of you might purchase off there. I don’t like part sourcing individual parts because something I always need is out of stock. For example box capacitors and diodes. Any good? By the way If this post is against these rules please delete.

1N34A

Thinline jacks
I have bought resistors and some film caps off Amazon. The caps were mislabeled as pF when, in reality, they were all nF. Some of the 5% metal film resistors were more than 10% out of spec. Based on that experience, I have avoided buying components through Amazon. Have had much better results getting components elsewhere … even eBay. YMMV as the kids used to say.
 
I buy enclosures off Amazon and eBay, and some switches. If I do happen to buy some ic’s it is pretty rare and usually because they are cheap enough that I’m willing to accept the loss if they are bad. That being said I e actually had decent results with mn3207/3102 sets from eBay (I suspect these are the same NOS cabintech ends up with as obviously there isn’t some massive warehouse full of these) and some lm13700’s from Amazon. Also mlcc cap sets from Amazon. That I bought in a pinch. Film caps/resistors/mlcc you’re better off buying from tayda and just getting the commonly used values we use for pedals otherwise you end up with a bunch you’ll never use.
 
As much as I hate buying from them and would much rather support smaller (or even local) vendors, I will buy 3pdt switches, jacks, and the occasional enclosure from them. I bought a bag of 10 3pdts for like, $25 I think and made sure to check them all before using them and they all passed the continuity test. So that was cool at least.

I've found that the quality of the stuff they have is pretty iffy. If I'm building something just for myself I'm fine with a 3pdt that takes more force to click and all that, but if it's a build for someone else I'd much rather get my parts elsewhere.
 
There's a couple of vendors on Amazon that I get parts from that have been legit. "Juried Engineering" is one.
All the IC's I've gotten from them have been legit. (Although expensive).

For passive components, there's only one brand I really trust on Amazon and that's Chanzon. Still more expensive than Tayda but I use their resistors pretty regularly mixed in with RoyalOhm from Tayda. I've also used their voltage regulators, LED's, and "some" transistors.
 
There's a couple of vendors on Amazon that I get parts from that have been legit. "Juried Engineering" is one.
All the IC's I've gotten from them have been legit. (Although expensive).

For passive components, there's only one brand I really trust on Amazon and that's Chanzon. Still more expensive than Tayda but I use their resistors pretty regularly mixed in with RoyalOhm from Tayda. I've also used their voltage regulators, LED's, and "some" transistors.
I was just about to ask about “Chanzon”. They’ve got bat41s (Pack of 50 Pieces) Chanzon BAT41 Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 100mA 100V DO-35 (DO-204AH) Axial 0.1A 100 Volt Small Signal Switching Diode https://a.co/d/4LrGRle

as well as 2n7000 and other popular components. However they do have some 1n34a listed that look like 1n4148 or 1n914.

Synthrotek is on there. There’s also 3pdt store but I know nothing about them.

@jwyles90 What brand switches and other parts are you using? I bought a mixed kit of 1/4” metal film resistors randomly before starting thread. Guess I’ll be checking each one before it goes on a board.

FWIW-I’d rather use smaller vendors as well such as smallbear, stompboxparts etc… but seems what I need is usually out of stock. I’ve never order from Tayda. I made an account. Looks complicated as hell. What are delivery times like with them?
 
Bought some carbon film resistors on amazon. They shipped metal oxide. I'm like, dude, this is an audio circuit, not a compressor motor.....
 
I was just about to ask about “Chanzon”. They’ve got bat41s (Pack of 50 Pieces) Chanzon BAT41 Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 100mA 100V DO-35 (DO-204AH) Axial 0.1A 100 Volt Small Signal Switching Diode https://a.co/d/4LrGRle

as well as 2n7000 and other popular components. However they do have some 1n34a listed that look like 1n4148 or 1n914.

Synthrotek is on there. There’s also 3pdt store but I know nothing about them.

@jwyles90 What brand switches and other parts are you using? I bought a mixed kit of 1/4” metal film resistors randomly before starting thread. Guess I’ll be checking each one before it goes on a board.

FWIW-I’d rather use smaller vendors as well such as smallbear, stompboxparts etc… but seems what I need is usually out of stock. I’ve never order from Tayda. I made an account. Looks complicated as hell. What are delivery times like with them?
Tayda is FAAAAAAST. I'm in SoCal and it's usually on my doorstep 3 days after I order.
 
I bought random things like jacks or knobs on Amazon and got lucky (I needed some stuff in a pinch and 1-day shipping was compelling). But I wouldn’t rely on it. I get most parts on Mouser (you can get jacks for pretty cheap there) and Tayda and some stuff on Smallbear (like Ge components) or the occasional LMS order.
 
I just bought this 8p dip switch set of five:
I was going to use Digikey but one regular turd for $2+$8 shipping or Amazon @ five for $10 that look to be better(?) and one day shipping. That one day shipping is dangerous for the instant gratis!
Tayda is fast now that they don't use a boat!
Damn what you building that has those switches? A programmable pedalboard looper or something?

I’ve always wondered nobody has come up with a modular programmable pedalboard looper. Start with 1 or 2 loops and add as needed. Wouldn’t think it’d be that hard.

Start with the input loop and choose between a selection for the output loop. Different options of course. And all the loops added would go between those 2. I’m not smart enough…before someone asks why i don’t make one.
 
Damn what you building that has those switches? A programmable pedalboard looper or something?

I’ve always wondered nobody has come up with a modular programmable pedalboard looper. Start with 1 or 2 loops and add as needed. Wouldn’t think it’d be that hard.

Start with the input loop and choose between a selection for the output loop. Different options of course. And all the loops added would go between those 2. I’m not smart enough…before someone asks why i don’t make one.
I'm working on the Tearjerker for a friend
 
Every, single, time..... I've bought resistor kits off Amazon, they are ALWAYS missing resistors without fail. I have 3 kits that say they include 1.5k, absolutely none in the kit, amongst a few other values that were not included.
 
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