PedalPCB Noctis with clipping LED/Keeley Moon Op Amp Fuzz

OD is Glorious

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
You can hit a note and it will just roll distortion out forever; it is aggressive and compressed. Whenever I have an overdrive/dfzz/distortion pedal I like to roll the gain down to zero to see if I can get any useable overdrive without the rolling distortion. With this circuit, it cleans up some and you can get a modicum of crunchy overdrive. I think if you like fuzz you may enjoy this circuit. I love switches: the short bat Taiway SPDT on/off/on switch gives you some versatility but I like it in the off position. The filter knob is just a tone knob. This pedal would not make it on my board but I played with it for an hour and it was fun.

For the build... a fuzz pedal should not have this many components! But this is an op-amp fuzz. It uses two less common op-amps (MC33178), two odd value caps (150n) and two 10u Tantalums one in C8 and one in C10. I had everything but the 10u tantalums so I used a 10u ceramic in C10 and a 10U Electrolytic in C8 and they both worked great. This build also used up 6 of my 1U caps. With the exception of finishing the enclosure, you can complete this in an afternoon.

The pedal top has a traditional waterslide with clear. The enclosure is Tayda 125b and the knobs are red Davies 1900 style. I used a PPCB top jack plate and switchcraft jacks, soft click footswitch and a PPCB breakout board.

I just had to free the clipping LED and it appears next to the footswitch. The BOM calls for two 3mm LEDs for clipping but I never leave them both hidden. Shine on you crazy diamond! #94

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Last edited:
Damn that’s Alot of 1uf caps! Was the 10uf tantalum not supposed to be polarized?

Yes, but luckily the orientation does not matter with the ceramic cap and it works great.

I almost forgot - it was late last night when I wrote this up, C8 calls for a Tantalum 10u and for that spot I used a 10U electrolytic cap without issue and it is polarized.
 
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