OD is Glorious
Well-known member
- Build Rating
For this build the BOM calls for MA856 diodes but I was sick of looking for them and the MA858 replacements so I used IS1588s. I also did not have the JRC4580D op-amp so I used an LM833. The circuit gets crunchy on the OD and boost settings and it gets creamy mid hump distortion on the distortion setting but the volume control needs adjustment if you toggle up or down. On the OD and distortion settings you need to turn the volume past 3pm to get really loud. I have read other Pauper comments (like this one) so I not think this is due to my Op-amp or diode selection. The volume potentiometer is an A100 and the circuit reaches unity at 1pm. The boost setting on the toggle has excellent clear headroom and it is cool I guess; easy build and the other settings have useable sounds. Full disclosure: I did not adjust the trim potentiometer.
Dip switches
I cannot see that the two internal turbo dip switches do much. Analogman's website says:
IP1 : LO-MID lift switch. The tone from your lower strings will be enhanced a little when DIP switch is ON.
DIP2: TURBO switch- with higher gain settings you'll hear deeper compression, especially in DIST mode. You will hear a brighter, crunchier sound with this on at higher DRIVE settings when this DIP switch is ON.
To this I say meh.
The enclosure is a light blue 125b from Tayda and there is a film free decal with a 2k clear coat. I did a poor job lining up the text for the toggle! Inside I used a PPCB breakout board with LED to move the LED to the footswitch and soldered a wire on the PCB in the LED spot. You can also see I had to install the 1u film cap below the board. I used a PPCB top jack plate and Switchcraft jacks. I used a Taiway long bat toggle and I chose MXR style white knobs. The LED is a blue 3mm in a clear freznel.
Notes
1. MA856 diodes are hard to find so consider socketing as I did and then try different diodes
2. Op-amp There are several ther op-amps that work here if you do not have the JRC4580D. You can use an LM833 as I did, or a TL072 or even a JRC4558.
3. Film cap Unless you have a slender 1u film cap, you will need to solder it below your PCB.
4. Internal dip switches - I am glad that I did not expose them through the case-I do not think they would be useful external switches.
Toggle cover or no?
Dip switches
I cannot see that the two internal turbo dip switches do much. Analogman's website says:
IP1 : LO-MID lift switch. The tone from your lower strings will be enhanced a little when DIP switch is ON.
DIP2: TURBO switch- with higher gain settings you'll hear deeper compression, especially in DIST mode. You will hear a brighter, crunchier sound with this on at higher DRIVE settings when this DIP switch is ON.
To this I say meh.
The enclosure is a light blue 125b from Tayda and there is a film free decal with a 2k clear coat. I did a poor job lining up the text for the toggle! Inside I used a PPCB breakout board with LED to move the LED to the footswitch and soldered a wire on the PCB in the LED spot. You can also see I had to install the 1u film cap below the board. I used a PPCB top jack plate and Switchcraft jacks. I used a Taiway long bat toggle and I chose MXR style white knobs. The LED is a blue 3mm in a clear freznel.
Notes
1. MA856 diodes are hard to find so consider socketing as I did and then try different diodes
2. Op-amp There are several ther op-amps that work here if you do not have the JRC4580D. You can use an LM833 as I did, or a TL072 or even a JRC4558.
3. Film cap Unless you have a slender 1u film cap, you will need to solder it below your PCB.
4. Internal dip switches - I am glad that I did not expose them through the case-I do not think they would be useful external switches.
Toggle cover or no?
Attachments
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