PedalPCB Uber Drive (Boss SD-1) 1590b x2

OD is Glorious

OD is Glorious

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
Someone asked me to build one, so I built two. They wanted black with yellow labels but it did not show up well so I went with bright white. First impressions of the circuit; it is not overpowered but has plenty of headroom. It does not really clean up by rolling off the gain, it stays crunchy even with the gain at 8pm. It is very creamy as you turn the gain higher and there is a distinct mid-hump. The tone knob really adds some sparkle. I would classify this as a low gain distortion pedal because it does not get transparent. The circuit is a bit noisy with the gain tuned up past 12. I still give this high marks, and if you love OD or dirt pedals you know you have to build one!

I used the odd 2SC732- picked them up on Ebay but I missed ordering the In916s - so I just used In4148s. There are no other difficult to find parts. If building one of these for a 1590b you will need the short electrolytic capacitors for the 47u and the 100u. I used Lumberg side jacks because that is my preference. Everything fits in the 1590b rrelatively easily with a low 47u and a low 100u. I used the illuminated footswitches from Small Bear (hole is 11/16ths), The labels are white vinyl, 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch and they have been protected with multiple coats of SprayMax 2k glamour. The sparkly enclosure - I cannot remember where I got it... and the straight black enclosure is from Tayda... can I say here that I hate thin walled sparkly one has? I use cobalt drill bits and I lubricate liberally, but these thin walls rip and gouge easily. Me no like!

Notes
  1. If you do not have the !N916s just put some IN4148s in there - socket them in case you decide to get those IN916s
  2. The 2SC732 Transistors are sort of hard to get, so you can investigate alternatives if you do not. have them.
  3. JRC4558s are not hard to find, but if you do not have one - there are others you can use.
  4. The Illuminated footswitch requires planning, you need an 11/16" hole and the based of the switch is also large. I used a step drill bit.
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Last edited:
The Grand Wazoo said:
I like the different sized knobs on the sparkly one. I like the sparkly enclosure. Nicely done.
Click to expand...
Thanks! That sparkly one is thin, andI the bit grabbed and gouged out a bit too much on one of my output jacks near the D.C. So I used a bit of epoxy died with mixol and an internal washer to fix it. It is noticeable to me but not to manny others. That enclosure is very striking!
 
OD is Glorious said:
Thanks! That sparkly one is thin, andI the bit grabbed and gouged out a bit too much on one of my output jacks near the D.C. So I used a bit of epoxy died with mixol and an internal washer to fix it. It is noticeable to me but not to manny others. That enclosure is very striking!
Click to expand...
Kinda like the “CNC Pro” enclosures from Love My Switches”? I try to stay away from those. I’d rather have the beefier walls.
 
The Grand Wazoo said:
Kinda like the “CNC Pro” enclosures from Love My Switches”? I try to stay away from those. I’d rather have the beefier walls.
Click to expand...
It is especially frustrating. I am trying to remember where this enclosure was from - it is spectacular to look at. Maybe I. need to use a different bit because it usually happens with the 3/8" bit for the side jack.
 
OD is Glorious said:
Maybe I. need to use a different bit because it usually happens with the 3/8" bit for the side jack.
Click to expand...
When I have that issue I’ve found that the only solution, for me anyway, is to gradually increase a regular bit size. The step bits have a habit of building up melted aluminum on the cutting edge. With thinner walls, the aluminum heats up more quickly in my estimation.
 
anevilspar7an said:
I started using Stompbox Parts for my enclosures. Excellent color choice when ordering stateside.
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I do like them, but since I always use waterslides they work better on smooth surfaces. And the enclosure needs to be light because us home DIYers cannot print white! Stomp has so many dark powder coats. So my best bet for enclosures is white, bare or green. If I want variety and smooth; Tayda. I order the majority of my enclosures from Tayda.
 
Last edited:
The Grand Wazoo said:
When I have that issue I’ve found that the only solution, for me anyway, is to gradually increase a regular bit size. The step bits have a habit of building up melted aluminum on the cutting edge. With thinner walls, the aluminum heats up more quickly in my estimation.
Click to expand...
I have a small jar of motor oil and dip the bit before every hole. I do the same with the step. I ruined a set of cobalt bit by not lubricating. The aluminum nearly fused to the bit before I started with the oil.
 
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