Powder Blue Overdrive

manfesto

Well-known member
@PedalPCB would it be at all feasible to move the 120uF caps a bit on a future board revision? They make it difficult for my (admittedly fat) fingers to manipulate the DIP switches :/

This thing is a wonderful overdrive, like a cleaner, higher-headroom, fuller-range TS with a much more powerful 2-band EQ.

I think the “glass” and “edge” modes are ice-picky bright with single-coils and the “Treble” isn’t in quite the right spot on the EQ curve to ever fully dial it out, but it works a treat with darker humbucker guitars.

The DIP switches aren’t subtle but aren’t super huge; makes sense they’re internal since I bet most users will just find a setting they like and stick with it.

Between the 2-band EQ, mode switch, and DIP switches, this thing can probably be mated to just about any rig with wonderful and musical results.

But there’s still no way in hell the original is worth $325.
 

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TheSin

Well-known member
I just finished this and the kings hand (assuming yours is a lone king). I like the kings hand so much that I ordered another pcb for me. I didn’t care much for the lone king.
 

manfesto

Well-known member
I just finished this and the kings hand (assuming yours is a lone king). I like the kings hand so much that I ordered another pcb for me. I didn’t care much for the lone king.
The Blues Power and Lone King are different, not sure by how much tho
 

TheSin

Well-known member
The Blues Power and Lone King are different, not sure by how much tho
I think the kings hand (side B of the duellist) is based off of a bluesbreaker circuit if I’m not mistaken.
Blue side of the protein is killer as well (pro10 blue). Highly recommended if you haven’t built one yet.
 

Martycaster

New member
Hi guys, my powder blue pcb is on its way but there aren't any build docs available yet. So my question for those who already built one is: where did you get the values or build docs? Would it be asking too much if I asked if you could share some parts list or so? Thx!
 

manfesto

Well-known member
Hi guys, my powder blue pcb is on its way but there aren't any build docs available yet. So my question for those who already built one is: where did you get the values or build docs? Would it be asking too much if I asked if you could share some parts list or so? Thx!
Honestly if it’s a circuit I’m interested in trying and the build docs aren’t up yet I’ll just buy it blind and buy the stuff when it arrives. Haven’t been bitten by anything I couldn’t easily source yet *knocks on wood*
 

music6000

Well-known member
Honestly if it’s a circuit I’m interested in trying and the build docs aren’t up yet I’ll just buy it blind and buy the stuff when it arrives. Haven’t been bitten by anything I couldn’t easily source yet *knocks on wood*
The 120uf Electrolytic Caps & 1u5 Box Caps are the less common components that take a little bit more time to find.
 

Martycaster

New member
Thank you very much!

I haven‘t had any problems sourcing the 120uf Electrolytics but the 1u5 caps…I‘ve just bought some normal ceramic caps as I couldn‘t find those as box shaped caps…hope it will work correctly, as the values are right.
 

Barry

Well-known member
Hello again,

so…my Powder Blue arrived yesterday. I‘ve been trouble shooting the thing for a few hours now and I can‘t get behind the problem. I‘ve double checked the solder points and everything seems to be ok. Switch is wired correctly as I got sound coming thru when bypassed. The only thing that‘s wrong to me is that it seems to be something that‘s shorting as a few components heat up. It‘s only one section (I think it‘s the power supply section) that heats up: C101, R100, R101 and R102.

Anyone a clue what could be wrong?

Thx! And happy new year!
Probably best to post pictures of both sides of the board in a troubleshooting thread
 

music6000

Well-known member
Can I use 100uF instead 120uF? I keep forgetting to order them and my patience has now come to an end.
Measure your 100uf's with a DMM, you have to wait a bit for it to read full charge & see if you can get the highest.
I use Nichicon & Rubycon & they get as High as 110uF which is in spec for a 120!
Put the highest in C102!
 
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