Problems with My Arcadilator Pedal Build. Would love help :)

[Canadianguitarguy]

First off, this is only my 4th pedal build, so I am a bit of a noob. I was wondering if anyone has ever experienced this and maybe there is something I missed.

So I have my pedal build all wired up. When I turn on the pedal, the LED goes on and off no problem. When it is off, the guitar signal passes through to the amp with no issues. However, when it is on, the pedal kind of works, but it's so quiet that I have to crank the amp all the way up just to hear it. Obviously, it's not usable. I've rewired all the off-board wiring three times, thinking maybe I made a mistake, but I get the same results every time. I will include a picture of my current wiring for reference and also include the pedal's off-board wiring. (sorry it looks so terrible... learning lol)



Wiring Diagram:


PCB:

Maybe you can see something that I don't:

[Link to wiring diagram: https://www.parasitstudio.se/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/wiringrev3.pdf]
[Link to build doc: https://www.parasitstudio.se/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/arcadiator_3_doc.pdf]

Also, if it's not the off-board wiring, is there something on the PCB itself I can check? I have done voltage tests, and everything seems to be getting power. Anyways, I'm really stumped and looking for a little guidance.

Thanks,

-B

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

Here is a good question..... I notice the Transistor on the pedal was installed without a socket....... would this cause problems? I also noticed i have an extra three pin socket left over .... could this possibly be the solution ?

 

[p_wats]

Here is a good question..... I notice the Transistor on the pedal was installed without a socket....... would this cause problems? I also noticed i have an extra three pin socket left over .... could this possibly be the solution ?

Not using a socket would only cause issues if it's a sensitive transistor that got overheated while soldering, but in my experience the 2n3904 is pretty hardy. I would focus more on your overall soldering and clarify the above IC issue first

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

I was reading that if the transistor was installed backward it wouldn't flow properly, might try flipping it the other way. But it appears to be on in the right direction...

 

[p_wats]

I was reading that if the transistor was installed backward it wouldn't flow properly, might try flipping it the other way. But it appears to be on in the right direction...

I wouldn't just flip transistors around, as that's a good way to fry stuff (but to be fair I've never fried a 2N3904). Instead, if you don't trust the symbol on the board, you could look up the pin out of the transistor and match it to the schematic in the build doc.

Personally, I would start by making sure your solder joints are all good (as you mentioned you thought it was the jacks a few messages ago, right? Did you rule that out?) and confirming all your components are the correct ones

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

Still trouble shooting. Is it possible to wire the foot switch upside down? is there a right side up ?

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

also in the build doc, any chance you know what the T and S stand for on the input and output jacks.. I think I've wired the my correctly ... but i am not 100%

 

[p_wats]

Switch orientation doesn't matter as long as it's not sideways, so yours should be fine (but soldering your connections properly does matter, so check those again, as it seems messy).

As for the jacks, T = Tip, S = Sleeve (this is also ground in this case).

To be honest, It's difficult to help if I'm not sure what you've already done based on the rest this thread, as you seem to be jumping all over the place.

For example:

- A while back you mentioned having had an IC problem, but when I asked about that you never followed up.

- You also mentioned you thought it was the jacks suddenly, but never confirmed if you addressed that

- Did you ever confirm all your resistor values are correct?

- Did you ever try putting something between the pots and the PCB to be sure nothing is grounding out?

- Did you ever try adjusting the trim pot while playing, to be sure it's set correctly?

 

[Barry]

My advice, google "how to solder video", you'll get a plethora of returns. Watch several and practice getting perfect joints on some tag board with a handful of resistors. When you can get perfect joints go back and fix all the cold solder joints on your board.

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

Switch orientation doesn't matter as long as it's not sideways, so yours should be fine (but soldering your connections properly does matter, so check those again, as it seems messy).

As for the jacks, T = Tip, S = Sleeve (this is also ground in this case).

To be honest, It's difficult to help if I'm not sure what you've already done based on the rest this thread, as you seem to be jumping all over the place.

For example:

- A while back you mentioned having had an IC problem, but when I asked about that you never followed up.

- You also mentioned you thought it was the jacks suddenly, but never confirmed if you addressed that

- Did you ever confirm all your resistor values are correct?

- Did you ever try putting something between the pots and the PCB to be sure nothing is grounding out?

- Did you ever try adjusting the trim pot while playing, to be sure it's set correctly?

-----I did a continuity test on the IC I thought had a problem, and it appears to be receiving voltage fine when everything is on. However, I may try replacing it, as I mentioned I had to solder an extension to a broken leg on the IC.

• I think the jacks are fine. However, I do agree the soldering joints can be done better.
• Now, the resistors are a funny thing. When I got the kit, it mentioned that the resistor for R21 depends on the LED that was being installed. However, they suggested a 15k value resistor... However, they never sent a 15k resistor. I ended up with an extra one in the end, so I figured it had to go in the only empty space left, which was R21. So, I believe if there are any problems with the resistors, that's a good starting point [https://www.parasitstudio.se/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/arcadiator_3_doc.pdf].
• I added the pot condoms to all the pots.
• I did adjust the trim knob while playing the guitar; however, it seems to only modify the effect itself and not the actual volume of the pedal. Just to clarify, when the pedal is off, the bypass works fine, and the guitar goes to the amp. However, when the pedal is switched on, you can hear the pedal working, but it is so quiet you have to crank the amp almost all the way up to hear anything (dangerous, I know, haha).

Anyways, I really appreciate all the help. Sorry for so many questions.

 

[p_wats]

-----I did a continuity test on the IC I thought had a problem, and it appears to be receiving voltage fine when everything is on. However, I may try replacing it, as I mentioned I had to solder an extension to a broken leg on the IC.

• I think the jacks are fine. However, I do agree the soldering joints can be done better.
• Now, the resistors are a funny thing. When I got the kit, it mentioned that the resistor for R21 depends on the LED that was being installed. However, they suggested a 15k value resistor... However, they never sent a 15k resistor. I ended up with an extra one in the end, so I figured it had to go in the only empty space left, which was R21. So, I believe if there are any problems with the resistors, that's a good starting point [https://www.parasitstudio.se/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/arcadiator_3_doc.pdf].
• I added the pot condoms to all the pots.
• I did adjust the trim knob while playing the guitar; however, it seems to only modify the effect itself and not the actual volume of the pedal. Just to clarify, when the pedal is off, the bypass works fine, and the guitar goes to the amp. However, when the pedal is switched on, you can hear the pedal working, but it is so quiet you have to crank the amp almost all the way up to hear anything (dangerous, I know, haha).

Anyways, I really appreciate all the help. Sorry for so many questions.

Sounds like you really need to double check all the resistors to make sure they are all the correct values in the right spots. Did you measure them before soldering them in?

I would also take the above advice and revisit your soldering. Cold/bad joints are a common problem

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

Sounds like you really need to double check all the resistors to make sure they are all the correct values in the right spots. Did you measure them before soldering them in?

I would also take the above advice and revisit your soldering. Cold/bad joints are a common problem

I didn't measure them with the multi meter before installing them

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

I'll play with it next week when i get back home. I got a 6 day back country trip planned on in BC Canada starting this Sunday . So ill update the forum in a few weeks

 

[p_wats]

I'll play with it next week when i get back home. I got a 6 day back country trip planned on in BC Canada starting this Sunday . So ill update the forum in a few weeks

Good luck and enjoy the trip!

 

[Feral Feline]

p_wats — awesome job helping Canadianguitarguy.


@Canadiancarguy — when you get back from your BC road-trip, I suggest:

- Take new pics with lots of light so the pedal guts aren't in shadow. I couldn't read all the resistor bands.

- In all future builds, orient components one way, ie left to right and bottom to top (or whatever you prefer, just be consistent). WHY?
Resistors don't matter which way they're oriented, until you try to read them. In circuit, your DMM won't get an accurate reading of the component, so you'll need to read the colour bands with your own glazzies.

For example a single resistor could read:
Brown Red Black Black Brown;
or flipped:
Brown Black Black Red Brown;

So is that resistor above 120Ω or is it 10k?





R21 * circled in pink in the pic above * in the build doc is 15k, ie BROWN GREEN BLACK RED BROWN
and it looks like you put in a 47k, ie YELLOW PURPLE BLACK RED BROWN
Ahhhh okay — No big deal, it's just the CLR for the LED; your LED must be very bright to have such a large resistor!
(https://www.digikey.ca/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code)

Well, looks like your resistors are all correct. ICs & Polarised caps correctly oriented...


Lots of stray strands of wire poking out all around the footswitch and jacks.
A lot of your solder joints look anemic, not fully penetrating the pad and locking in the component.
Check out some threads on soldering technique; BuddytheReow has some extremely helpful tutorials on the forum.


You mentioned you broke an IC off.

...
I guess one over thing that i forgot to mention was i did break off one of the IC Chips and managed to solder it back on.. and that would be my next place to check maybe need to buy a new 4070CD IC .... but im hoping not.

Did you break off the socket or the IC itself, and if the latter WHICH LEG(s) was(were) damaged?
Brutal honesty: that's a significant omission!



TBH, I'm horrible at trouble-shooting, but I find it helps to do it systematically — again, many threads on the topic with loads of good info and tips on what to do in what order for X-problem.

• I did adjust the trim knob while playing the guitar; however, it seems to only modify the effect itself and not the actual volume of the pedal. Just to clarify, when the pedal is off, the bypass works fine, and the guitar goes to the amp. However, when the pedal is switched on, you can hear the pedal working, but it is so quiet you have to crank the amp almost all the way up to hear anything (dangerous, I know, haha).

From other threads I've read, when bypass is working and yet the signal is next to non-existent when the circuit is engaged, it's common to have the jacks wired backwards — input going to output and vice-versa. If there's no sound at all engaged, it can be that the Tip & Sleeve got mixed up and the entire signal is being dumped to ground.


Re Wiring:
As you build more pedals, you'll figure out what works for you — Some people use one colour wire for their entire build .
I don't. I've got different colour wires for different functions and it helps (sometimes) when I trouble-shoot. I like to use black for GND and red for +9v.
You have two black wires going to your DC jack, yet you have many colour choices ; Like I say, though, plenty of people are making incredibly great pedals using one-colour wire for ALL connections.


It is possible to overcook a footswitch, too. I'm just trying to spitball ideas here...


Hmm DC jack: short-terminal is the centre connection, which for this circuit is negative, and the longer is the barrel connection, positive.
Can't see it too well, but it looks like the short connection is to 9V input on the board, so the DC jack may be wired backwards.
This could also explain why it's so quiet when engaged.



Okay, I'm off to trouble-shoot some of my own builds...

Enjoy Beautiful British Columbia!

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

p_wats — awesome job helping Canadianguitarguy.


@Canadiancarguy — when you get back from your BC road-trip, I suggest:

- Take new pics with lots of light so the pedal guts aren't in shadow. I couldn't read all the resistor bands.

- In all future builds, orient components one way, ie left to right and bottom to top (or whatever you prefer, just be consistent). WHY?
Resistors don't matter which way they're oriented, until you try to read them. In circuit, your DMM won't get an accurate reading of the component, so you'll need to read the colour bands with your own glazzies.

For example a single resistor could read:
Brown Red Black Black Brown;
or flipped:
Brown Black Black Red Brown;

So is that resistor above 120Ω or is it 10k?


View attachment 77199
View attachment 77204

R21 * circled in pink in the pic above * in the build doc is 15k, ie BROWN GREEN BLACK RED BROWN
and it looks like you put in a 47k, ie YELLOW PURPLE BLACK RED BROWN
Ahhhh okay — No big deal, it's just the CLR for the LED; your LED must be very bright to have such a large resistor!
(https://www.digikey.ca/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code)

Well, looks like your resistors are all correct. ICs & Polarised caps correctly oriented...


Lots of stray strands of wire poking out all around the footswitch and jacks.
A lot of your solder joints look anemic, not fully penetrating the pad and locking in the component.
Check out some threads on soldering technique; BuddytheReow has some extremely helpful tutorials on the forum.


You mentioned you broke an IC off.

Did you break off the socket or the IC itself, and if the latter WHICH LEG(s) was(were) damaged?
Brutal honesty: that's a significant omission!



TBH, I'm horrible at trouble-shooting, but I find it helps to do it systematically — again, many threads on the topic with loads of good info and tips on what to do in what order for X-problem.



From other threads I've read, when bypass is working and yet the signal is next to non-existent when the circuit is engaged, it's common to have the jacks wired backwards — input going to output and vice-versa. If there's no sound at all engaged, it can be that the Tip & Sleeve got mixed up and the entire signal is being dumped to ground.


Re Wiring:
As you build more pedals, you'll figure out what works for you — Some people use one colour wire for their entire build .
I don't. I've got different colour wires for different functions and it helps (sometimes) when I trouble-shoot. I like to use black for GND and red for +9v.
You have two black wires going to your DC jack, yet you have many colour choices ; Like I say, though, plenty of people are making incredibly great pedals using one-colour wire for ALL connections.


It is possible to overcook a footswitch, too. I'm just trying to spitball ideas here...


Hmm DC jack: short-terminal is the centre connection, which for this circuit is negative, and the longer is the barrel connection, positive.
Can't see it too well, but it looks like the short connection is to 9V input on the board, so the DC jack may be wired backwards.
This could also explain why it's so quiet when engaged.



Okay, I'm off to trouble-shoot some of my own builds...

Enjoy Beautiful British Columbia!

Oh man this is all great info!! i will look into all the suggestions when i get back into town!! thanks so much for all the advice!

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

Little update . Took out the CD4070 .... heres a pic of the piece I jimmy rigged backed together... I also noticed another leg was broken off... ordered a new one and hoping this is the issue at fault... i will update this when i install the new one

 

[Feral Feline]

Whyse youse allawase...

?

 

[jwin615]

If your DC is wired inverted, then your LED is also inverted.
Test with your DMM on DC setting(or V--, not V~)
Apply power, black DMM lead to gnd pad, red lead to 9V pad.
If it reads 9V, you're good. If it reads -9V, it's inverted.
Also, as FF mentioned, make sure you are not plugging into the wrong jacks. It's easy to do with the pedal upside down. Bypass will work that way.

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

If your DC is wired inverted, then your LED is also inverted.
Test with your DMM on DC setting(or V--, not V~)
Apply power, black DMM lead to gnd pad, red lead to 9V pad.
If it reads 9V, you're good. If it reads -9V, it's inverted.
Also, as FF mentioned, make sure you are not plugging into the wrong jacks. It's easy to do with the pedal upside down. Bypass will work that way.

Awesome ! I will give that a shot aswell ! thanks

 

[Canadianguitarguy]

If your DC is wired inverted, then your LED is also inverted.
Test with your DMM on DC setting(or V--, not V~)
Apply power, black DMM lead to gnd pad, red lead to 9V pad.
If it reads 9V, you're good. If it reads -9V, it's inverted.
Also, as FF mentioned, make sure you are not plugging into the wrong jacks. It's easy to do with the pedal upside down. Bypass will work that way.

Hi Jwin, so i tested it with the DMM and got this: