Relay Bypass for Battery-Powered Pedals

Mictester

New member
Most relay bypass designs draw lots of current. A few years ago, I decided to experiment with small bistable relays. These have a mechanical latching system, so just require a brief pulse to change state. They're available in dual coil (one for "set" and the other for "reset") or in single coil (a pulse in one direction "sets", and in the other, "resets"). After some experimentation, I came up with this simple circuit. It allowed me to use up the huge stash of "Carling" footswitches I'd built up when converting Wah Pedals (especially "Cry Baby" types) to "True Bypass". The current drain is minimal (predominated by the consumption of the LED!), and the relay coil is given a pulse one way when the switch is closed, and back again when the switch is opened. Bear in mind that the specified relay must be used (or another one with very similar specifications) and the coil voltage should be 5V (even though the supply is 9V), since the "set" and "reset" pulses are both brief and small, since they are created by charging and discharging the 100µ capacitor.

This was the simplest circuit I could come up with, and it's worked reliably in many pedals over the years. The only minor problems I've had have been with very high gain pedals, where the switching pulse could get impressed on to the sensitive audio stages. That said, an effective or increased supply filtering capacitor cured the "pop" in every case.

Low Current Bistable Relay.png
 
Obviously, the transistor types aren't critical - I made the first run of these with BC183L and BC213L for example - but you need one NPN and one PNP, and the hfe of each should be at least 150 or so. If you need to drive two relays in parallel (for a stereo pedal, for example), you can wire the relay coils in parallel, and increase the 100µ up to 220µ (or add another 100µ in parallel) to provide more pulse current.

I found that I had some really high efficiency Red LEDs that were quite bright enough with 22k resistors from a 9V supply, so I got the quiescent "on" current down to µA. Obviously there's no current drawn in the "bypassed" state!

This circuit fulfilled the need for the "True, solid copper path" demanded by some players, whilst making battery operation of the effects possible. It eliminated the use of the dreadful 3PDT footswitches and all the grief they gave me over the years!
 
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