SOLVED Serpent Treble Booster

yazooligan

Active member
SOLVED!

So this is a Rullywow build but this is my home forum. I’m getting audio in bypass, but there’s no sound when engaged and the LED doesn’t light up. I’m a hundred percent that the values of each component are correct, but there could certainly be a dud in there. I have a multimeter ready to go to narrow down the possible culprit(s) but I don’t know where to point it. Pics below. Thanks for your help!

9C1B05F6-ED0B-4976-82B8-8EF111EFF73E.jpeg CBBD08F3-730A-40C7-A046-AA3F9B78F2AD.jpeg 40D664AE-35CC-4A69-905A-CD982D114861.jpeg D2DC2191-0E6B-4263-AEA5-39D205830EBC.jpeg A22FDE24-AAE3-4FF6-89B1-9F65A6D011B4.jpeg
CFA1DAD7-8605-4AEB-9CE6-48E1A97FB1A7.jpeg B4BD98B3-A945-4F1F-937C-E9353BB3A490.jpeg 523B8CC5-D2D1-4745-96ED-0C58796EF3C5.jpeg 9D45D94D-03F5-41B4-9BC4-E54F668DC669.jpeg D75B0330-4457-4FA6-AF6E-F175606C6B3E.jpeg
 
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What's up with those potentiometers? They most definitely are part of the problem, the pot leads need to be able to make good contact. Solder bridges won't cut it. That pcb was made for potentiometers with component leads, best practice is to replace them, though you may be able to use hookup wires from the pcb to the pot.
 
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There is nothing wrong with using lead-clippings as pot legs* so long as there is a good amount of SOLID physical contact (as mentioned by Sturdag Lagarnathy) between the clipping and the lug, to which the solder is merely aiding and abetting conductance as opposed to the solder acting as the sole perpetrator. *I find most resistor-legs to be too flimsy (ie 1/4w, but 2w clippings from amp-builds are fine); I do keep the clippings from capacitors and diodes.

I suspect issues possibly being...

— BACKS OF POTS: masking tape isn't going to stop a sharply-trimmed lead on the PCB from poking through to the back of the pot. Treat yourself to a popsicle or visit your dentist for some tongue-depressors and hot-glue the popsicle-stick wood between PCB and pots, or use several layers of electrical tape, or try double-sticky taping some milk-carton plastic tabs onto the back of the pots.

— COLD SOLDER JOINTS: I see what looks like a lot of potentially cold solder-joins. Try to reflow 3PDT lugs 1, 4, 7 (and 8). Flow B1k's #1 lug again, too, and any other joints that don't look smooth and mirror-like. Reflow ALL the wires from the 3PDT board, and probably the other end of them at the main circuit-board too. The red wire at the 3PDT-board that goes to the LED looks like a cold solder joint. (I found it difficult to follow your power-wiring between the two boards, as I always use black and red only for power, green for ground in a pinch if I run out of black). Bend the pots out of the way and inspect all solder joints on the back of the board, reflow any unsmooth or dull joints.

— POWER: no effect signal & no LED leads me to suspect you're just not getting power distribution. Inspect all the power points, reflow all of them.
You're getting signal in bypass, so at least you know those solder-points on the 3PDT are good. You mentioned you have got a (digital?) multi-meter, so check to see if you're getting power at the main board. Use your DMM to also check the LED connection, if you've got continuity there, then the power problem may lie in the main connection between the DC-jack and the 3PDT board's power-connection points.


Good luck Yazooligan!
 
Love my switches has been out of the pots I needed for like six months and I didn’t feel like waiting on a Tayda order. Thought I could get away with using the legs off some resistors, but I guess not.
Did you use this part exactly as written P2N2222A as Listed , Pinout is C B E flat side Left to Right which is WRONG if you look at the PCB.
There are 3 of these and they vary ie 2N2222A & PN2222A, Pinout is E B C flat side Left to Right!
Looks like Rullywow got it wrong, If you flip it 180 degrees it will face the right way by what I can make out.

1624793519920.png
 
Did you use this part exactly as written P2N2222A as Listed , Pinout is C B E flat side Left to Right which is WRONG if you look at the PCB.
There are 3 of these and they vary ie 2N2222A & PN2222A, Pinout is E B C flat side Left to Right!
Looks like Rullywow got it wrong, If you flip it 180 degrees it will face the right way by what I can make out.

View attachment 13091

Is this the Build Docs ?
Clearly showing E B C on the PCB Board!
1624794823921.png
1624794968372.png
 
Did you use this part exactly as written P2N2222A as Listed , Pinout is C B E flat side Left to Right which is WRONG if you look at the PCB.
There are 3 of these and they vary ie 2N2222A & PN2222A, Pinout is E B C flat side Left to Right!
Looks like Rullywow got it wrong, If you flip it 180 degrees it will face the right way by what I can make out.

View attachment 13091

I did indeed find some P2N222A’s on eBay, and have about 20 so I socketed that part.

EDIT: Thank you guys so much for all the feedback! This is just the best community.
 
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I went ahead and ordered the correct pots from Tayda, and I have a ton of the plastic covers (bought in bulk on Amazon), so those should help narrow things down. I've removed the jacked up pots while I wait.

I'm fairly used to using my DMM for checking continuity, but I'm not sure how to measure power getting to the main board. Any pointers are welcome.

I've re-flowed all the joints Feral Feline mentioned, and a few others that looked suspicious. I'm wondering if the LED and power connections on the 3PDT breakout board have to be wired on the same side. I'm using one from each side and assumed it didn't matter, but I might try that as well. I wired up a new DC jack with no change in results so the jack isn't the issue. I'd also love to be able to test the LED somehow.

I'll know more when the new pots come in, but thanks for all the help so far!

EDIT: The new pots are in and I figured out how to test LEDs with my DMM. Mine works, so I'm going to go over all my old connections on the main board and 3PDT before putting the new pots on. I also haven't used alcohol on it at all yet as I've been out of it for a while. Time to grab that and get cleanin'.
 
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Got the new pots installed and I’m going to use a new breakout board and footswitch after work to see if that does it. I’m pretty sure the power pads on the main board are fucked on one side, but I got them all to solder to the main board.

If it ends up being a brick I’ll just try the PPCB version when it comes out.
 
Did you use this part exactly as written P2N2222A as Listed , Pinout is C B E flat side Left to Right which is WRONG if you look at the PCB.
There are 3 of these and they vary ie 2N2222A & PN2222A, Pinout is E B C flat side Left to Right!
Looks like Rullywow got it wrong, If you flip it 180 degrees it will face the right way by what I can make out.

View attachment 13091

SOLVED!

This ended up being the final step to take heed of!
 
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