Steddi, Go! - simple tube D.I.

Tassieviking said:
For people like me who live NOT in the US I could just do with ordering the PCB since it would take about 2 weeks before it arrives Under Downunder at my place, so I don't need the build docs for 2 weeks after I order the PCB.
I think the drill files and artwork is more important to me since Tayda are always so backed up with doing the enclosures.
Your PCB's are usually so well labeled with the component values that I don't even think I need a build doc at all really.
I guess most people don't have practically all the components at home already like I do so they would need the BOM or build docs so they can order parts for the builds, I always order resistors in lots of 50 and caps usually at least 10 each of whatever I need but I'm a solder addict.

To me the most important part is that you get it done in your time frame and not try to rush it, don't let it become a chore that you feel has to be done because then the LOVE that emanates from all your pedals and PCB's might disappear and that would be a sad day for all of us.
And I am really impatient and check the store 10 times a day to see if it is done yet and I still want you to go slow so you enjoy the great work you (and the family) do for the rest of us.
Cheers
Mick
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How can I say no to that?

c2celectronics.com

Steddi Go PCB Set

This is a PCB set for building your own Steddi Go preamp/D.I. This is not a beginner project, so if you’ve never built a pedal before, then this isn’t for you. I’ve tried to make this as affordable…
c2celectronics.com c2celectronics.com

I should be able to get the artwork files finished up tomorrow. Tomorrow is "bring your child to work day" so I get to spend a few hours with my two oldest kids then head home early in the afternoon, should have plenty of time to get it done.
 
vigilante398 said:
This will be less expensive, smaller, and easier to build. Nobelium will have an EQ and a high-pass filter. As far as general "sounding good", I would put this right on par with Nobelium, it just doesn't have the hype.
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Thanks! I think I want the EQ so it’s nobellium for me. But still in the air. I’ll read through the build docs and decide
 
Nathan, in the BOM for the Steddi Go it mentions a 12AT7 or a 12AX7 as the tube, what would be the difference between the two tubes apart from a gain of 60 or 100 ?
Is it a coin toss which one I should use or split the difference and go for a 5751 tube with a gain of 70 ?
Cheers
Mick
 
Tassieviking said:
Nathan, in the BOM for the Steddi Go it mentions a 12AT7 or a 12AX7 as the tube, what would be the difference between the two tubes apart from a gain of 60 or 100 ?
Is it a coin toss which one I should use or split the difference and go for a 5751 tube with a gain of 70 ?
Cheers
Mick
Click to expand...
It's really down to gain level, it's about how loud you want the output to be. No reason not to try a 5751 as well.
 
Well I placed one of each on my tube order for the last batch of PCB's I got, man 22 tubes get expensive but it should keep me occupied most of the winter I hope.
And now I need more enclosures as well from Tayda but they can wait a while, I should have the box for the Steddi Go and the Wrecking Ball today I think so that will calm the Sushi DT's for a while anyway.
Now if I like the Steddi Go with all 3 tubes I most likely will have to order 2 more PCB's since I am too lazy to keep swapping tubes, the enclosure I have coming is candy red so that might have to be the 12AX7 SG, and then an Orange and Green one for weaker tubes Steddi Go's.
Hmmmm......I think I am rambling on again.......mouth engaged and brain in neutral, time for bed I think.
Cheers
Mick
 
I went back and forth but fend d up choosing the steddi go (halfway through the build and I want the nobelium too).

Looking at the BOM there is a D3 1N4007. I am not seeing it in the schematic or on the board. Am I missing something? I found it on the nobelium schematic
 
Nerdridesbikes said:
I went back and forth but fend d up choosing the steddi go (halfway through the build and I want the nobelium too).

Looking at the BOM there is a D3 1N4007. I am not seeing it in the schematic or on the board. Am I missing something? I found it on the nobelium schematic
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Ah geeze, thanks for letting me know. That was an accidental carry-over from my template and is not part of the build.
 
Finished my steddi go and it sounds awesome. It really warms up the output of my multieffect/amp cab sim.p, which doesn’t have an xlr out on its own. It won’t replace my MXR bass di on my analog rig because I want the tone shaping, so I’ll be thinking about a nobellium too, but so far I’m really happy with this. Thanks for all the help with the dumb questions, and please ignore my substandard soldering.

Edit: wanted to note that the graphics are temporary vinyl. I have a show this weekend so wanted to have some explanation of what it was. Screwed up the application of the model name and C2CE logo. My daughter is in art school and I’m going to let her loose on painting some graphics.
 

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Nerdridesbikes said:
Thanks for all the help with the dumb questions,
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The first thing I was told when I started my Electrical apprenticeship in the late 1970's was that there are no stupid questions, only stupid mistakes.
If you are not sure then ask all you want because even a small mistake can be your last when you play with electricity, it is not nice when your vision is slowly disappearing into a tunnel of light and you can't move because your body is convulsing. Guess how I know that.
It is also not up to your skill level how safe electricity can be, the last person who was working on it might have done something really wrong, I only got second degree burns when I learnt that lesson.
I still love the smell of leaded solder and high voltage. ( Yes you can smell electricity when it goes into the 1000's of volts, ozone. )

It might be a good idea to solder the mounting pins on the potentiometer to the PCB, everything else looks like nice work.
 
hello,
I'm just getting around to putting in an order at tayda, and came across this at C1
680n Film capacitor

no voltage is listed, and I can'd find C1 on the board... can I get some more info on this?

thanks
 
thanks, got it now.
farnell is cheaper and easier to order from in my part of the world, so I do it all from there.

is there any benefit to a larger voltage value at C1?
is there a benefit to 0.5% vishay resistors on R1-5?

if I were wanting to change a coupling cap to do a little high passing, would that be C1?
it would be nice for there to be a constant lower cutoff.
 
I would change C2 to change HPF, the lower C2 is the less Bass is going to get through.
For Bass guitar I might change it to 10uF or even 4u7 to loose the muddy bit from the bottom end, I think it is best done by trail and error and what your ears tell you.
You can also do it with C1 but I am not completely sure how it will interact when you turn the volume up / down.
If you want more Bass to get through then just install larger caps, but I don't think it is necessary. I think C1 currently lets through everything above 1 Hz and C2 would be fine above 30Hz as it is. C2 can be 100uF or 120uF to let even more bass through as long as the capacitor is a 6.5mm diameter max with a P of 2.5mm.

If Nathan says use a 100V cap in C1 then I would not get any higher voltage ones as they tend to get bigger, the cap just have to be rated over the voltage that is there and it should make no difference if you use higher voltage caps. Higher voltage caps are usually larger in size and cost more for no real gain sound wise.

I always use the 1/4 watt 1% metal resistors from Tayda and I see no benefit from getting a better value, resistors are always picked from a set standard value of resistors to start with so the ideal value is never used anyway.
If the theory says use a 96k27 resistor we end up with the nearest standard value and use a 100k in its place, circuits are always a compromise on the best value in most cases and as long as the resistor doesn't drift in resistance when in use it will be fine.
That is at least my opinion but as usual I could be wrong.
Cheers
Mick
 
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havnjero said:
thanks, got it now.
farnell is cheaper and easier to order from in my part of the world, so I do it all from there.

is there any benefit to a larger voltage value at C1?
is there a benefit to 0.5% vishay resistors on R1-5?

if I were wanting to change a coupling cap to do a little high passing, would that be C1?
it would be nice for there to be a constant lower cutoff.
Click to expand...
Sorry I missed this one, but Mick is correct.

No benefit to a higher voltage for C1 unless you already have it on hand and it fits on the board. You'll be seeing low voltages there on the cathode, so 100V is more than enough.

Absolutely no benefit to 0.5% tolerance resistors in this build.

Bringing down the value of C1 will limit the low end response, but as Mick mentioned you can also do that with C2. I use 47uF for a nice open low-end response, if you're looking to tame the lows I would recommend starting around 1uF and adjust up or down from there.
 
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