Tayda SD-1 SMD Reverse Tuxedo/Boss SD-1 Super Overdrive Pedal 1590a

[OD is Glorious]

Build Rating

4.00 star(s)

IA mini SD-1 is just what I needed. It growls and snorts and does the thing with some great clipping options. There is a 6 position dip switch that I messed with and finally settled on the settings you see here. If my math is correct, there are 64 different combinations to shape your sound.There were a few settings where the use of the tone control causes a loss of volume, so those were not great. Tayda gives you a dip switch chart which I included here; I prefer it with just number 4 on the dips turned off. I ran it for a while because even with a completed SMD board it still took me all day messing around with wiring and positioning. I am happy with how it turned out and happy that I can get useable tones. Sounds like an SD-1

I used a white Tayda 1590a... applied a film free decal, and then used Spraymax 2k clear to protect it. The side jacks are low profile enclosed jacks, the footswitch is a full sized model with a Tayda breakout board. The cost of the SD-1 board is $12 and the breakout board is $2.50. I used a Lumberg top jack and 9mm potentiometers with adaptor boards from Amplified parts. The knobs are Aluminum - Davies 1900 Clone Knob - 1/4" Smooth Shaft (12.5mm) - Matte Finish from LMS. 3mm red diffused LED in a red Freznel. You get the completed board and it is up to you to add everything else including the 6 position dip switch. When I was messing with the dips I saw the smd LEDs flashing on the board.

I do not like that the A1M gain pot has all the gain at the end of the turn, so I might consider a B1M for that position. 4 stars because even though I liked circuit, I struggled getting this circuit and components situated in a 1590a.

Notes

1. Go with the Tayda breakout board if you build one
2. For 1590a or b builds order low profile side jacks because even with SMD builds the cap and dipswitches need to clear
3. You need 3 potentiometers: A1M, B100k, and a W20K

 

[like Yeah!]

i was wondering how the tayda boards are.. i think the boards are done by a taiwanese company, but i could be mistaken
i'd even recommend going with the low profile jacks as a default.. i use these because of the extra contact.. they're more expensive, but you will never have a bad connection with them.

 

[OD is Glorious]

i was wondering how the tayda boards are.. i think the boards are done by a taiwanese company, but i could be mistaken
i'd even recommend going with the low profile jacks as a default.. i use these because of the extra contact.. they're more expensive, but you will never have a bad connection with them.

I see. Too much going on in a 1590a for all that exposed metal. The Tayda SMD boards I got were great so far. I did get a hole thru version of the tube screamer and they curiously have the drive and volume swapped. They probably made ten thousand boards so they just sell them that way and when you get them you are like what the what?

 

[like Yeah!]

I see. Too much going on in a 1590a for all that exposed metal. The Tayda SMD boards I got were great so far. I did get a hole thru version of the tube screamer and they curiously have the drive and volume swapped. They probably made ten thousand boards so they just sell them that way and when you get them you are like what the what?

i probably wouldn't use them for that use case either.. but to be honest i don't think i would do anything with a 1590a aside from the stuff that has the on-board neutrik connectors already.. like the stuff @Robert did with the utilities like the micro buffer etc..

 

[OD is Glorious]

i probably wouldn't use them for that use case either.. but to be honest i don't think i would do anything with a 1590a aside from the stuff that has the on-board neutrik connectors already.. like the stuff @Robert did with the utilities like the micro buffer etc..

You should attempt one. I get lost in it for many hours. I went to the workshop today at 12 and when I looked up it was 8pm. My first few were 1590a builds were ok, but I do it a lot different/better now. I got these Tayda boards specifically for 1590a builds. I will stick a Tube Screamer in one and a few of Tayda's other smd boards.

 

[like Yeah!]

You should attempt one. I get lost in it for many hours. I went to the workshop today at 12 and when I looked up it was 8pm. My first few were 1590a builds were ok, but I do it a lot different/better now. I got these Tayda boards specifically for 1590a builds. I will stick a Tube Screamer in one and a few of Tayda's other smd boards.

maybe after i've done a few more boards.. i want to get good with moving controls to where i want them + still attaching boards to the inside of the case at the same time in a straightforward way.. i've had to get creative, and it worked out.. but i want to build pretty like the big kids do and what i did looks janky mcjank to me..
but
there's a ppcb breakout board for pots that's actually meant for a breadboard.. and it does the pad reverse thing so i can just use straight header pins intsead of it looking poop.
stuff like that.
then maybe i'll try a smol build