fig
Village Idiot
Indeed.
This Week on the Breadboard: The Lingonberry OD
- Thread starter Chuck D. Bones
- Start date
jessenator
Well-known member
Imposter or I aM Poster?
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Por que no los dos?
fig
Village Idiot
You say the sweetest things!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Version 0.3
I'll have to look into the elaborate way you have changed the treble control. It's all a bit over my head - I addressed the mid-hump at the bass control in my Strawberry but your solution is no doubt more elegant and electronic. In the Strawberry I think I put the treble control on the equivalent of C12 in this circuit. I'm sure yours works better. Sigh... it's usually the case! Bloody experts.
Which do you like better - the Strawberry or the Lingonberry?
Which do you like better - the Strawberry or the Lingonberry?
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
The TREBLE circuit is just the treble half of a Baxandall tone stack. Look at the last stage of the Klon, Finnegan did the same thing.
I have not built the Strawberry yet. In a day or two, I'll turn the Lingonberry breadboard into a Strawberry. The two are pretty similar.
I have not built the Strawberry yet. In a day or two, I'll turn the Lingonberry breadboard into a Strawberry. The two are pretty similar.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Here's the Vero layout.
Here's a little insight into my process.
I use VeroRoute to lay out the board. It keeps track of all of the connections for me.
I export the Vero image to a PNG file, import it into Paintshop Pro and set the background color to transparent.
Then I drop the image onto an Excel sheet, with the rows and columns sized to make a nice grid.
After that, I type a big red X into each cell where I want a cut. Sometimes I add extra cuts to improve the isolation between strips.
I add the row and column markers and mark all of the I/O connections.
Excel counts the X's so I get a total count of cuts.
I manually fill in the number of links on each row, then Excel counts those up. That's how I get the picture above.
Than I make a copy (screen grab) of the component side layout and mirror it so I have a Cu side layout.
I use the Cu side layout as a guide for marking the actual Vero for cuts (drilling). I check that a couple of times and then drill the board on a drill press.
Next, I visually inspect the board to make sure the cuts are all good and remove any swarf with an Exacto blade. Then I check it for shorts with a DMM.
After that, I scan the Cu side board, import the image into Excel and overlay the drill guide to verify I made all of the cuts in the right places. You can see where I got a little bit sloppy with one of the holes
After that, I clean the board with IPA and start assembly.
Jumpers go in first, then IC sockets. Solder & inspect. Sockets & jumpers make good landmarks.
Then the resistors are installed. Solder & inspect.
Axial diodes go in next. Solder & inspect.
Next any metal can parts and trimpots. (none in this build).
Film, MLCC & SM caps. Solder & inspect.
Tantalum caps. Solder & inspect.
LEDs. Solder & inspect.
Aluminum caps. Solder & inspect.
Once board assy is complete, I clean the board and inspect it once more. Any remaining shorts, misplaced components or weak solder joints are cleaned up.
Notice that parts which are easily damaged by an errant soldering iron go in towards the end.
Here's a little insight into my process.
I use VeroRoute to lay out the board. It keeps track of all of the connections for me.
I export the Vero image to a PNG file, import it into Paintshop Pro and set the background color to transparent.
Then I drop the image onto an Excel sheet, with the rows and columns sized to make a nice grid.
After that, I type a big red X into each cell where I want a cut. Sometimes I add extra cuts to improve the isolation between strips.
I add the row and column markers and mark all of the I/O connections.
Excel counts the X's so I get a total count of cuts.
I manually fill in the number of links on each row, then Excel counts those up. That's how I get the picture above.
Than I make a copy (screen grab) of the component side layout and mirror it so I have a Cu side layout.
I use the Cu side layout as a guide for marking the actual Vero for cuts (drilling). I check that a couple of times and then drill the board on a drill press.
Next, I visually inspect the board to make sure the cuts are all good and remove any swarf with an Exacto blade. Then I check it for shorts with a DMM.
After that, I scan the Cu side board, import the image into Excel and overlay the drill guide to verify I made all of the cuts in the right places. You can see where I got a little bit sloppy with one of the holes
After that, I clean the board with IPA and start assembly.
Jumpers go in first, then IC sockets. Solder & inspect. Sockets & jumpers make good landmarks.
Then the resistors are installed. Solder & inspect.
Axial diodes go in next. Solder & inspect.
Next any metal can parts and trimpots. (none in this build).
Film, MLCC & SM caps. Solder & inspect.
Tantalum caps. Solder & inspect.
LEDs. Solder & inspect.
Aluminum caps. Solder & inspect.
Once board assy is complete, I clean the board and inspect it once more. Any remaining shorts, misplaced components or weak solder joints are cleaned up.
Notice that parts which are easily damaged by an errant soldering iron go in towards the end.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
cooder
Well-known member
Mine is finally in the box, juicy. Full of vintamins, those berries 
But really, very versatile drive from mild OD to distortion territory. Efficient tone controls: tick.
Nice with the comp control, I live more on the below noon more headroom end after initial playing.
Opamp ate TLC2272 and NE5532.
Pics festival as usual:
But really, very versatile drive from mild OD to distortion territory. Efficient tone controls: tick.
Nice with the comp control, I live more on the below noon more headroom end after initial playing.
Opamp ate TLC2272 and NE5532.
Pics festival as usual:
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Dude, you are on a roll!