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Hi.
this is a build report for the potentiometer breakout board of all things, featuring a transcendence boost as the test subject..
It's more about the breakout board though. It was made for breadboarding, but it works pretty decent as a breakout board for flying a pot over a board without messing around with wires and crappy pot legs.
I was building another transcendence boost, and I wanted the jacks in a different spot, but still in a 1590b2. so the pot had to move from the default spot. so I did some shenanigans with wires to get a pot to fly over a board so i could get room in a case the way i wanted... i did pic related, which i've seen others here do.
I think it sucks and i hate it. ... and I felt bad that it happened, even though i knew it had to happen.. that middle leg is weak af. and it's not really a good anchor point for a board anymore like that. and it looks like shit.
Anyways, after doing what i did above to make it work, i was kind of just scrolling around and grumbling about it, and i came across the new boards.
this is exactly the thing.
if you do the wire shenanigan thing anymore to fly a pot over a board, you should feel bad too.
now it can be done and be at least as structural as before.. and at least planned looking, because the board mirrors the pot pads.
i used the 16mm pot because it's what i have, but the 9mm pots would be perfect for this use case, and would look decent because the board has the 9mm holes too..
I didn't have any header pins handy, so I cut some coax core wire because i have coax and the center wire is made of something stiff i can solder to. since i was retrofitting this into where the shenanigans took place, i had to shape the wire as pictured to make the pot reach the holes in the main board and come out of the case in the right spot again as well.. it is very important to use either a real header strip, or other hardened wire for something like this, or else you won't get the integrity you might expect. regular solid core will not do it.
to be fair, if i were to do this entire pedal again, but with the pot board included, the knob would end up in a better spot with just straight lengths (or real header pins). the coax core wire worked very well though.
once everything is in place it looks like this.
i used a shim to space the board while soldering to get an air gap between the boards. i made the solder joints as surface mount as possible on the underside of the breakout and used etape to shield it just in case. (i didn't get pics of that though sorry!) I didn't do a finish paint on this yet, it's more about the breakout board than the pedal honestly.
As you can see, the pot breakout board made it so i could put the jacks in a new spot inside a tiny case.. and now i feel like the board is actually affixed to something inside the case as well because the header pin material is much stiffer than a janky pot leg.
Thanks @Robert!!!
this is a build report for the potentiometer breakout board of all things, featuring a transcendence boost as the test subject..
It's more about the breakout board though. It was made for breadboarding, but it works pretty decent as a breakout board for flying a pot over a board without messing around with wires and crappy pot legs.
I was building another transcendence boost, and I wanted the jacks in a different spot, but still in a 1590b2. so the pot had to move from the default spot. so I did some shenanigans with wires to get a pot to fly over a board so i could get room in a case the way i wanted... i did pic related, which i've seen others here do.
I think it sucks and i hate it. ... and I felt bad that it happened, even though i knew it had to happen.. that middle leg is weak af. and it's not really a good anchor point for a board anymore like that. and it looks like shit.
Anyways, after doing what i did above to make it work, i was kind of just scrolling around and grumbling about it, and i came across the new boards.
this is exactly the thing.
if you do the wire shenanigan thing anymore to fly a pot over a board, you should feel bad too.
now it can be done and be at least as structural as before.. and at least planned looking, because the board mirrors the pot pads.
i used the 16mm pot because it's what i have, but the 9mm pots would be perfect for this use case, and would look decent because the board has the 9mm holes too..
I didn't have any header pins handy, so I cut some coax core wire because i have coax and the center wire is made of something stiff i can solder to. since i was retrofitting this into where the shenanigans took place, i had to shape the wire as pictured to make the pot reach the holes in the main board and come out of the case in the right spot again as well.. it is very important to use either a real header strip, or other hardened wire for something like this, or else you won't get the integrity you might expect. regular solid core will not do it.
to be fair, if i were to do this entire pedal again, but with the pot board included, the knob would end up in a better spot with just straight lengths (or real header pins). the coax core wire worked very well though.
once everything is in place it looks like this.
i used a shim to space the board while soldering to get an air gap between the boards. i made the solder joints as surface mount as possible on the underside of the breakout and used etape to shield it just in case. (i didn't get pics of that though sorry!) I didn't do a finish paint on this yet, it's more about the breakout board than the pedal honestly.
As you can see, the pot breakout board made it so i could put the jacks in a new spot inside a tiny case.. and now i feel like the board is actually affixed to something inside the case as well because the header pin material is much stiffer than a janky pot leg.
Thanks @Robert!!!
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