Troubleshooting a Superheterodyne Receiver. What symptoms would I expect to hear if I didn't use the right type 2 on/on/on DPDT switch?

kylewetton

Active member
I'll admit that this is my own PCB layout, but I noticed that everything works great except for the -2 on the Main Oscillator Root which sounds exactly like -1.

This is the one component i was worried about because it's hard to nail down the Type 2 switch, but I did find someone on this forum that reckoned they found one on Tayda and supplied the part number.


1741160544390.png

1741160562576.png

(Footprint is flipped)

Im curious if anyone has used the wrong switch here and what you'd expect to hear? Middle position (-1) sounds fine and so does Unison
 
If the middle and another one sound the same you have the wrong throw
Ah I really appreciate that response.

I’d love help with these questions; just to help out my understanding

- If I mirrored the footprint (reverted the footprint so it wasn’t flipped), then fixed the tracks (so they’re connected to the same pad numbers as currently), would this same switch type work correctly then? Assuming I still soldered it on the reverse side of the board. My understanding is that Type 2 is a mirror of Type 1. But I don’t really know?

- is it something that you have experience in enough that you’d be able to recognise if the switch I bought (linked above) is actually the right type for the circuit, or if I accidentally bought a Type 1

I’m trying to figure out the right fix here, either an update to the PCB, or whether an update to the switch type is what I need to do.

I really appreciate your help and stoked to see that you replied
 
Here's the way I'm seeing it on a Type 2 switch

1741168066187.png
1741168243362.png

1741168454334.png

But course, this explains why middle position and lower position is the same, because they make the same connection...

But if I used a Type 1, this is what middle position would look like

1741168631966.png

SO that answers the question, I shouldn't have flipped my footprint.

Anyone got a link to a Type 1 switch?
 
...


Anyone got a link to a Type 1 switch?
OR...

Open up the switch and flip the little widget around. You might even be able to do it while it's still soldered to the board.

This just came up in another thread. Here's my post from an old thread from the first time I attempted such a thang...

Wahhhhooo SUCCESS!

On both counts.

Ordering some stuff from StompBoxParts (thanks @Bobbyd67!) including type 2 switches AND

I've successfully monkeyed a Type 1 > Type 2 !

Took a while, the bits needing swapping were pinned to the centre lugs, no way for me to pinch the pins and remove them, but I managed to force the lugs through the epoxy and swapped the whole shooting match. I had to re-assemble several times, literally DOZENS, tweaking the wee metal bits inside each time (they got pretty badly mangled from me trying to get them out). Really, the most time-consuming part was reassembly due to getting the bits to stay where they're supposed to.

I got it to a point where it would work, but not well enough that I would trust to solder it into a PCB, just offboard wiring. I disassembled one more time, made a final tweak and reassembled and BAM! Like a Neptunian Spice Weasel it made the right sounds and had the right feel at last.

I'm confident enough to put this in the smaller PCB of the two projects needing this type of switch. The larger project will have to wait for shipment from StompBoxParts (Sending it to the GWN, not to my Asian address).

In future, if need be again, I would change how I disassemble this particular brand/type switch, and things won't get as beat up and thus hopefully will reassemble more easily and quickly.

Thanks @twebb6778!


Could be a fall-back plan for @Quinn301's Hyped Fuzz, McGyvering a T1>T2...
 
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