Waikikamukau Boost and Wah

[cooder]

Here's a two in one pedal based on two circuits by two of my Besties here on the forum, @Chuck D. Bones and @jjjimi84 . The select switch up and we have a fixed wah type filter that's highly tweakable from nicely equing the signal to full on extreme cocked wah sounds. Very cool, thanks so much Sir!
The select switch down is the "Dan Boost" by jjjimi84, great gnarly boost which can be dialed breaking up with the bias control, great to push and punish an already breaking up amp or to kick another drive in da guts, that's where it shines best me thinks.

The naming is a bit of a Kiwiana joke and I'm sure @szukalski will get it straight away.
Waikikamukau is a made up name of non existent place that takes inspiration (aka p take) from town names like Whangarei, Waitamata, Manukau, Tamaki Makaurau (Auckland) etc.
Say Waikikamukau quickly and you realise it's the phonetics of being kind to the grazing animals on the paddock. Quite funny also since I'm living now pretty rural with a cow paddock in front of us.
And boy, is it good to have a workshop up and running again... getting the iron fired up again, building stuff.

 

[Pauleo1214]

Beautiful build and graphics! I love the moo-cow.

 

[steviejr92]

Incredible build! Your graphics are on another level!

 

[szukalski]

Love the name (and the pedal)!

 

[HamishR]

Where might I find the fixed wah schematic? I'm intrigued now!

 

[cooder]

Where might I find the fixed wah schematic? I'm intrigued now!

Good question, not sure if it was posted in the Boneyard... I will check with @Chuck D. Bones

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Here is the filter schematic. VR1 is a dual-gang C100K pot. S2 is a DPDT ON-ON-ON toggle switch. The IC could be a quad or two dual opamps. The filter choke is optional, it's shown as R14 on the Vero. If you don't have the choke, use a jumper. C8 can be 100uF.



Anticipating James's next request, here is the Vero (top view). The "bridges" are solder bridges between adjacent strips on the backside. For example, that double-wide green strip on the lower right is two strips bridged at one point.


The original build can be seen here.

 

[Paradox916]

And he’s back! Nice! I was wondering where you ran off too.

 

[HamishR]

Ah yes, I remember this one now. I tried looking through Chuck's Boneyard but couldn't see anything from the titles. Thanks guys!

I do have an aversion to using dual gang pots in vero builds but might have to make an exception here...

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

I looked there too. Thought I had posted the schematic, but apparently not. Nothing secret going on there, it's a standard state-variable filter. The only tricky part is wiring the toggle switch correctly.

 

[HamishR]

So I'm looking at the two diagrams: The schematic and the layout. And you are correct - I'm totally confused about the switch! And what is "LP" on the layout going to pin 7? I assume MS is Mode Switch. Going by the schematic it looks like everything is connected to everything at the switch!

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

OK, the schematic is a little misleading when it comes to the switch. The wires connecting two switch pins, you don't put those in. I drew them in to indicate what the switch does inside. Would a better schematic be helpful?

MS is mode switch. It leads to the output.
LP is the Low Pass signal.
FA1 is the High Pass signal.
FB1 is the Band Pass signal.
This type of filter makes all three signals at once. We only use them one at a time.
The 3 position switch is wired so that up is Low Pass, middle is Band Pass & down is High Pass.

The FAx terminals go the the FREQ pot section A
The FBx terminals go the the FREQ pot section B

 

[cooder]

And he’s back! Nice! I was wondering where you ran off too.

Hahaha yes I had all my stuff and workshop thingies packed up in boxes, change of lifestyle, living in a camprervan while been slightly distracted by building a house and new workshop, still more to do on that, but yes I'm back. Good to have a functioning workshop again and a music room too.