What Rotary Switches Do You Like?

Ginsly

Well-known member
I'd love a recommendation for A) a decent pcb-mounted rotary switch and B) a decent solder-lug version from Tayda et al? Seems like 1P8T and 1P12T are the two major ones to look at..? I realize each project calls for a specific kind of switch and this may be annoyingly general, but I'm looking to get a few of the most-used ones for off-board and pcb use. I need to order from Tayda, so I'd love some links!

I haven't delved into that world yet, and I can already see that the shafts are typically knurled (and oddly short?) or D-shaped plastic (eew), making it possibly difficult to have a matching set of knobs on a pedal that presumably would have mostly 6.35 smooth shafts.

It'll mostly be for switching between different capacitors, etc - nothing too crazy.
 
The 16mm rotary switches (1P8T for example) are great when space is limited but the larger Alpha 1P12T rotary switches are far more reliable/durable and can be limited to any number of positions with the stop washer.
 
The 16mm rotary switches (1P8T for example) are great when space is limited but the larger Alpha 1P12T rotary switches are far more reliable/durable and can be limited to any number of positions with the stop washer.
This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for! Thx Robert! Ping me when ya can, I have a package for ya. :)
 
I can already see that the shafts are typically knurled (and oddly short?) or D-shaped plastic (eew), making it possibly difficult to have a matching set of knobs on a pedal that presumably would have mostly 6.35 smooth shafts.
Lovemyswitches sells adapters that can make round shaft knobs work better with d and t18. My go to knobs are available in t18 and I keep a few on hand but I have used the adapters in a pinch and can vouch for them, but for a personal build a round shaft knob will typically (IME) stay put without one.
 
@finebyfine I love those! I actually got a couple close-enough brass tubes from Bozos and cut em to size with a jeweler’s saw! Wayyyyy cheaper.

@Robert you just saved me from buying the wrong switch. That stopper is crucial!
 
I actually got a couple close-enough brass tubes from Bozos and cut em to size with a jeweler’s saw! Wayyyyy cheaper.
lmao I was about to say you could probably make a pencil's eraser ferrule work in a pinch too, I'm gonna steal your method
 
lmao I was about to say you could probably make a pencil's eraser ferrule work in a pinch too, I'm gonna steal your method
I DID have to sand the outside a bit to get them to fit all 6.35 knobs I had, but now they work great! Interior fits 6mm smooth and knurled like a glove. I’ll see if I can find the link…
 
If you have a lathe (or just a drill now that I think about it), get some 6mm I.D. Tube and just sand it at a relatively high speed until it’s the right outer diameter

I found some uninsulated copper crimp ferrules that are just 6mm tube at 12mm lengths, I think the OD might be able to squeak through and I’d just have to cut them in half. Only thing stopping me from buying them is wondering if I could ever possibly use 200 of them in my lifetime
 
Lovemyswitches sells adapters that can make round shaft knobs work better with d and t18. My go to knobs are available in t18 and I keep a few on hand but I have used the adapters in a pinch and can vouch for them, but for a personal build a round shaft knob will typically (IME) stay put without one.

I've done that with 90% of my rotary switches. Just tighten the set screw and it has always worked just fine for me. Used on the Arachnid board, which I turn the switch often, never had it skip/jump.
 
I've done that with 90% of my rotary switches. Just tighten the set screw and it has always worked just fine for me. Used on the Arachnid board, which I turn the switch often, never had it skip/jump.
Makes sense- it would be way less obvious on a rotary switch if the knob was a little off-center.
 
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