What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

I designed a PCB for a smallsound big sound mini a year or two back (great pedal) - built two up for friends and the remaining pcb got posted to folk on a U.K. bass forum.

My mate got one, and then asked me to order the parts and also musikdings kit of PedalPCB frequency interchange.

And they sat on his shelf for most the year, till yesterday he came round and I showed him how to build it up! We started with the frequency interchange as Robert is really good at nice neat pcbs and I’m not and built it in 4 hours - it would have been less but my friend is a perfectionist (“it’s your first pedal it doesn’t need to be perfect”) and wanted to clean the pcb after soldering. (Does it make a difference?)

He built it, not me so no build thread, just this post.
He didn’t really get the whole diy pedal experience as it worked perfectly first time! It sounds really really really good, probably acting as a buffer at the start of the chain with the filters hardly on - but it made everything sound better!

There’s part of me knows I’ll be building one for myself.
Another part wonders about trying the skeptical buffer Pino and everyone on here loves (!), and another wonders about adding the filter section of the frequency interchange into the skeptical… (a stupid idea, I’m not sure what magic the skepticals +15v/-15v supply of TL072 gives vs +9v supply of TL072 gives in real life!
 
Another part wonders about trying the skeptical buffer Pino and everyone on here loves (!), and another wonders about adding the filter section of the frequency interchange into the skeptical… (a stupid idea, I’m not sure what magic the skepticals +15v/-15v supply of TL072 gives vs +9v supply of TL072 gives in real life!
2nd thoughts - a terrible idea
 
Boxed up the Mofeta (heavy naming and homage inspiration in the graphic). At first I couldn't bias Q3 under 16V, but thankfully reheating the solder on Q3 and Q4 fixed that up. Then I figured the LED was too dim, and I managed to burn the LED while mucking about with that, so I had to switch it out and tack an another resistor on the underside of the PCB. But now it's bright enough and everything seems to work as it should!

I realized I now have four pedals which simulate amps popular in doom circles (EF120 Overdrive, GCI N.E.W. Apostle, Fuzzdog Model T Mini with added LPB, and now the Mofeta - plus a PCB for the Coda Black Hole waiting it's turn), so I could probably do some sort of a shootout at some point. Not saying I will, but it's a fun idea.

DSC_3799~2.JPG
 
I realized I now have four pedals which simulate amps popular in doom circles (EF120 Overdrive, GCI N.E.W. Apostle, Fuzzdog Model T Mini with added LPB, and now the Mofeta - plus a PCB for the Coda Black Hole waiting it's turn), so I could probably do some sort of a shootout at some point. Not saying I will, but it's a fun idea.
Nice!
I would be very interested in hearing your comparison, even if just a quick write up. I have 2 EF120s 80+% pop'd on the bench(basically waiting on enclosures) and a EL Sunnbeam in the pipeline.
Did you do a report on the 120? I know, I should search... If you recall, I'm curious where you settled on the caps for the rotary/FAC or if the stock values worked fine for you.
 
Nice!
I would be very interested in hearing your comparison, even if just a quick write up. I have 2 EF120s 80+% pop'd on the bench(basically waiting on enclosures) and a EL Sunnbeam in the pipeline.
Did you do a report on the 120? I know, I should search... If you recall, I'm curious where you settled on the caps for the rotary/FAC or if the stock values worked fine for you.
I don't think I did a report (I think I've only done one report so far, I just post in the workbench thread).

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/what’s-on-your-workbench.13146/page-115#post-215621 has a mention about some 1uF/1nF confusion which apparently was supposed to be 1nF in the end.

I think https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/what’s-on-your-workbench.13146/page-212#post-258176 lists the EF120 values? IIRC the stock values felt decent, I was complaining about the values in the GCI New Apostle in the post. I'll have to compare the EF120 and the Mofeta, so far I've liked the EF120 the best but not sure about how Mofeta matches up yet - seems pretty good so far.
 
I don't think I'll do a build report, but I did want to mention that I finally got around to boxing up a General Tso compressor so I can use it for funk covers and WOW does this thing sound good! I put it after a Twin Twelve, Barbershop, and Low Tide and the sounds were immaculate. Easily a sneaky top 5 pedal for me.
 
Putting the tree away. Artificial, pre strung lights, incandescent. Bottom (first) section of lights out. Go to check it out. Over 20 lights all burned out.

No one sells that many spares in a package, and local HW store only had multicolored. They come in like 5 or 6 in s package. I say screw it and just buy a 150 light string that I could find, which needing green, turned out to be a shrub netting version.

Get home and the sockets are ever so smaller than what's strung on the tree. Was hoping to just plug n play, but got really good at changing out bulbs at least.

Nice thing was with my Ace rewards the box of lights was only $4.

Maybe when all the spares are gone we'll (more like just me) will re string the whole tree with LED stands. Maybe they'll've perfected actual warm LED phosphors by then.

Got the tree maybe 8 years ago? Haven't had so much as a burned bulb in all that time, so good on them.
 
Breadboarding @Chuck D. Bones' incredible Mechanic Fuzz. This might be my new favorite fuzz. A great sounding germanium fuzz that's completely agnostic to temperature? Sign me up! I'm normally not a fan of tone controls on a fuzz face, but the ones in the Mechanic sound great. I'm also blown away by the thermal stability. I started off at 72ºF, with VCC = 9v and Q2C at 4.5v. I hit it with my wife's hair dryer for a couple of minutes. The transistor temperature stabilized at 120ºF, and Q2C was sitting happily at 4.492v, fluctuating up or down by a few thousandths of a volt. The current consumption is crazy low compared to a certain "temperature-controlled" fuzz face—with bias set to 4.5v, current consumption was a 3.7mA at 70ºF and 2.4mA at 120ºF. I currently have a pair of GT320V transistors in circuit, but it's worked really well with everything; Soviet, American, Western European, Japanese, Eastern European. Anyway, this thing is great and you should all get it on your workbench, too.
IMG_3800.jpeg
 
Putting the tree away. Artificial, pre strung lights, incandescent. Bottom (first) section of lights out. Go to check it out. Over 20 lights all burned out.

No one sells that many spares in a package, and local HW store only had multicolored. They come in like 5 or 6 in s package. I say screw it and just buy a 150 light string that I could find, which needing green, turned out to be a shrub netting version.

Get home and the sockets are ever so smaller than what's strung on the tree. Was hoping to just plug n play, but got really good at changing out bulbs at least.

Nice thing was with my Ace rewards the box of lights was only $4.

Maybe when all the spares are gone we'll (more like just me) will re string the whole tree with LED stands. Maybe they'll've perfected actual warm LED phosphors by then.

Got the tree maybe 8 years ago? Haven't had so much as a burned bulb in all that time, so good on them.
They aren't cheap...at all, but I got a couple of strings of these for the tree this year as I got tired of the same game you've been playing. Every time I would look at the tree this year it made me VERY happy! I may pick up more for the outside decor next year. You've got to keep checking back as they are usually sold out.
Tru-Tone
 
Breadboarding @Chuck D. Bones' incredible Mechanic Fuzz. This might be my new favorite fuzz. A great sounding germanium fuzz that's completely agnostic to temperature? Sign me up! I'm normally not a fan of tone controls on a fuzz face, but the ones in the Mechanic sound great. I'm also blown away by the thermal stability. I started off at 72ºF, with VCC = 9v and Q2C at 4.5v. I hit it with my wife's hair dryer for a couple of minutes. The transistor temperature stabilized at 120ºF, and Q2C was sitting happily at 4.492v, fluctuating up or down by a few thousandths of a volt. The current consumption is crazy low compared to a certain "temperature-controlled" fuzz face—with bias set to 4.5v, current consumption was a 3.7mA at 70ºF and 2.4mA at 120ºF. I currently have a pair of GT320V transistors in circuit, but it's worked really well with everything; Soviet, American, Western European, Japanese, Eastern European. Anyway, this thing is great and you should all get it on your workbench, too.
View attachment 88025
It would be cool to have a PCB for this…
 
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