White Protoboard weird voltages and LED FLASH?!?!?

[jaminjimlp]

OK I got all the supplies to build the board and got it done forgot to get the charge pump IC and it came in and powered the board up and could not get the power to read right so I connected a LED to 3v connection and nothing connected it to 5v and it has a steady flash after checking all the components orientation I found 1 cap (by the 3v reg closest to the 5v reg ) backwards... LOL so I changed it and still the same result. I am not a rookie at this stuff and I quadruple checked everything the cap backwards was a 4am thing LOL... I guess maybe I've fried the reg's and I even removed the charge pump IC and still no change. now the fuse that was used in the link was out of stock but Tayda had one with the same specs but different brand that's the only thing that is not exact as far as parts goes . so anyone have an idea were to start? Oh yeah with the CP IC in I get only 9v on the 18v taps.

One for the suggestion box:
I would like to see a LED power light and a Bypass \ Effect LED added to the board in a future revision, just my 2 cents.

 

[jaminjimlp]

I'm leaning towards I may have got the 3.3v or the 5.5v reg's to hot ... I've looked all over and don't see anything

 

[jaminjimlp]

Does anyone have a schematic for the protoboard? there's one spot next to the charge pump where some of the white covering on the PCB came off and some solder has joined it with the connection on one of the caps but I'm not sure if it's an actual connection there anyways or not thanks in advance I'm about to lift the regulators to see if maybe I overheated it that's all I can figure thanks for any help or suggestions from anyone.

 

[jaminjimlp]

Okay did a little searching and I found the schematic for the proto board here on the form The only thing is the capacitors aren't marked with what number they are on the board but I'm sure I can figure it out with a schematic hopefully the one I'm concerned about goes to ground and that's what it is

 

[jaminjimlp]

Ok i got some good news and some weird news... so I removed the 5v reg and no change but the 3.3v reg got super hot!!! ah yes we are on to something here! So removed the 3.3v reg and walah all things are normal!!! put the 5v reg back in and yes we got 5v no problem... lukily I ordered 2- 3.3v regs from Mouser and I pulled the new un-used one and before soldering it in I thought why not just place it and press it down with my finger... Well call the burn ward cuz that sucker got super hot in just a second?!?!?! pulled the cap because I thought well maybe that's shorted but no it checks out at 10.75uf and did another placement test and rush my finger to the emergency room !!! YEP still heats up like a jet engine so I grabbed the original one and it gets hot too... all with the cap out and all?!?!?!?!??! the markings on the 3.3v reg are GH38H 314617 I thought maybe Mouser sent the wrong on but a quick search on the net found that it's a good number for the LD1117S33TR. So I thought maybe there is a short but a good old continuity test says no... so I'm stumped at this point, do I call Mouser and ask for one that's marked "1117"? Really makes no sense to me at this point.

 

[KR Sound]

Not sure if I can help at all, but here’s a pic of my 3.3

L033
E250

 

[jaminjimlp]

After I lay down last night I started thinking about some of the date sheets I looked at where it showed the pinouts were different and then I thought well maybe the big pin is not out on this one but then I thought well I've taken out the capacitor and nothing else is touching any of the 3.3 v connections and that's the only thing he goes to so that wouldn't matter so it's got to be the one two and three pins must be different... I think I'm just going to call Mouser today and see what they say... I'll have to go back and look again I was getting pretty tired but I did see on one of the data sheets where it was saying something about that particular package and the different pinouts and the designators for which pin out on that package.

 

[jaminjimlp]

Okay mystery solved... I'm a bonehead! Let me just say that first of all.

So if you look at the two pages of the data sheet and it shows the nomenclature and you look and see well the one I have is to H2 and of course the H2 has a different pinout

Well here's the reason I bought them, (as well as the correct ones) this other picture shows a little 5 volt and 3.3 volt regulator that plugs directly into a breadboard that I got from banggood for like two bucks. I was screwing around with it one day and overloaded the regulators so when I was looking for the regulators for the protoboard I figured hey let me get a couple for this other breadboard regulator and as I was looking through I saw there were some that handled more current so I ordered two of each of those as well as the ones that I'll put on the protoboard. So the other one I ordered that I put on the board as you can see is AZ1117CH2 and of course that one has the wrong pin out for the protoboard I figured I would go ahead and fess up and put it on here so maybe it will help somebody else at some other point might do something stupid like I did and in any case at least I figured it out. I searched around in my junk pile here and found the ones that were supposed to be in the board and since the one 5 volt one I put in there is working and it handles more current I'm just going to leave it but I have the correct ones to go in the 3.3 volt position and will be installing those today so all is well and boneheadville lol